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Archived banjo bolt snapped off in injector pump housing

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any ideas here guys on what to do and if there is a way to do this without removing the pump. Laser bob is headed out of town next week, I don't really trust anyone else to do this type of procedure. I mean to keep the shavings of the cross threaded housing out of my fuel system. I don't know if i can stand to have it 2 weeks with no drive time though. Is this pump pretty tough to remove I figure once it's out then i can get it fixed and then have someone with some skill put it back in u know? Any ideas would be great.
 
Is there any room to use an Easy-Out extractor to try and remove the bolt? Extractor tools are made in different shapes and sizes, does not need to be the Easy-Out brand name.
 
Broken bango bolt

Moolie. Very easy fix get yourself a good easyout tap it in to fitting it'll come right out. You may want to remove air intake and throttle assembly for easier access I've done a few myself. The fitting is a straight thead comes out very easy just make sure you have a good screw extractor. Thanks Steve B.
 
so would i used a rethread tool after that? and alter the banjo. Also wouldn't all those slivers of aluminium make their way right into my fuel. I think that i've picked apart what i could so far and done a good job on keeping the junk out of there.
 
bob was saying take it to a machine shop but that's too much cash to have them re drill the hole either way the truck is sidelined until i can fix this issue. and the thing i don't want is to rush in order to fix it and make a big mistake and then have it permanently out of order.
 
Bango bolt

Moolie, If you broke the fitting , it will come out very easy. There should be no need to retap the threads. No foreign objects should be present. Thanks Steve B.
 
I used a set of left hand drill bits at my last job. As your drilling it sometimes just backs out. Remember to put your drill in reverse. Saved my butt on several occasions.
 
BHazelrigg said:
I used a set of left hand drill bits at my last job. As your drilling it sometimes just backs out. Remember to put your drill in reverse. Saved my butt on several occasions.

Like BHazelrigg said.

Unfortunately, getting left turn drills can prove to be difficult. Go to a good specialty tool supply shop, and ask about left hand drills (I am intentionally not calling them drill bits, because a old-school machinist will smack you for calling them bits). Just a note, if you go to a place like Sears or Home Depot and ask for left turn drills, the 16 year old person working the counter will have no idea what you want, then proceed to tell you that no such thing exists or has ever been made.



Sometimes, the brokes object will jam on the bit as you are drilling, and just unscrew themselves.

-Rich
 
Several of you are assuming that the banjo broke from being overtightened during a normal instalation. If that is the case, then I agree that an Easy-Out or similar tool will probably remove it without a problem.



However, if the banjo broke while being removed or because it was cross threaded, it could be a different issue. In that case, it COULD involve drilling and tapping!



My recomendation would be to try the Easy-Out anyway... just DO NOT force it and break the Easy-Out!!! They are harder than most drills and are almost impossible to get out!!! If the Easy-Out doesn't work, you will be faced with drilling and tapping. YOU will have to decide if you can do it on the truck or if you will have to remove the pump.



An old machinest told me years ago that there is no such thing as an "Easy-Out". While they have their place, most extractors honestly cause more problems in the hands of a novice than they ever solve!



Steve
 
moolie said:
any ideas here guys on what to do and if there is a way to do this without removing the pump. Laser bob is headed out of town next week, I don't really trust anyone else to do this type of procedure. I mean to keep the shavings of the cross threaded housing out of my fuel system. I don't know if i can stand to have it 2 weeks with no drive time though. Is this pump pretty tough to remove I figure once it's out then i can get it fixed and then have someone with some skill put it back in u know? Any ideas would be great.



All of those holes have helicoil in them, if it's the fuel inlet or overflow too I guess it's a 14mm 1. 5 pitch thread and the pump bore is a 16mm 1. 5 pitch.



Jim
 
i tried the easy out and it's not a straight in shot so i have to move some things around i was unable to even budge it so i'm gonna try again and see if i can make any progress. I'm not too worried about getting it out more worried about shaving ruining pumps, or injectors stuff like that. If i can't budge it i'm gonna go get a left handed and try my luck there. I got an offer from a guy to fix it for 400 with the removal of the pump and cleaning whatever shavings out of there should i just take that offer or no. Dodge said 430 for the install and removal not messing with the threading at all. What do you think
 
ok got that sucker out now i'm gonna clean up the threads a bit and use plenty of cutting oil so hopefully it can be normal again. I'm having a hell of a hard time finding that fitting for the fass pump it's a flared end to a piped end and i've been to every damn hardware store in this town today. Now the big question is whether or not any crap fell down in the pump and if it can be fired up without having to remove the pump and clean of any possible debris... ... ... ... ... let me know please
 
Clean out like a good Hunting Dog!!

I would use a strong vacuum cleaner and a thin nozzle or hose to try and pull out as much garbage as you can from that Injector Pump threaded hole. I would even try to get inside there with a small magnet to pull any steel out. Either should work. Hope this helps!!
 
a vacum that's a damn good idea i took the thread cutting oil and put it on the rethread tool and got a bunch of crap out and then i went in there with a q tip and got a bunch of other crap out of there i guess a vacum would be good I wish i had a extremely high powered. I had an idea from a friend of mine. He said hook it back up and disconnect the fuel out of the pump and turn the key on. The fass starts pumping at that point, and maybe it could flush out a bunch of that crap i wonder if this is a realistic scenario. I think if the injector pump doesn't kick on until u start the truck it could work, maybe. Let me know
 
Get a ice pick an put a magnet on the side to magnetize the point then stick in the hole. thats what I did when installing exhaust pyro,it removed a lot of shaving.
 
but the shaving are aluminium which as u know isn't capable of being drawn to a magnet. That's the issue that sucks big time. Would that work with the fass pump issue.
 
hey check this crazy idea out. wil it work? I take the canister attachment for my vacum sealer and i hold it in place as tight as i can or if i have to get a threaded fitting that can connect to it and then i suck that junk out will that work or is that too much pressure will it take care of the issue. It's a bit out there but anything is better then ruining a pump
 
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