2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Banks e-brake gate valve erratic

[MMcLeran]

Valve closes when engine cold to hasten warm-up, I gently tap accelerator when egt is about 400F and gate opens. Gate will not close when I'm on the road and let off power above 30mph, there's no ehaust breaking at all like on downhill etc. All HVAC gates open and close although cooling is warmer then it should be. Both started acting up at same time. All vac lines look ok, I'm wondering if the E-brake module is bad although it activates valve when engine cold . Unless valve is actuated when cold by a system other then E-brake module. E-brake is two years old, I leave it on full time. Banks not much help but did say might be the module. Cannister has 5yr. warranty but does not include module. Module was installed so far up behind dash and does not appear to have been secured, was rattling around till I velcroed it. I'd like to hear from anybody who has had a module fail and how it affected the E-brake etc. A $1,000. system should last longer I would think. Truck is 01, 2500 CTD, ext cab, Banks high ram, 4" pipe from turbo back. 285 Toyo's, 85K easy miles, some 5th wheel towing. Sorry bout the rambling, I just love my truck I guess.

Thank again.

Mike

 

[Allnew2Me]

Mine works as follows and as far as I know it is correct. When the engine coolant is below 140 degrees the brake will come on to help warmup but when it does this it does not lock (or keep locked) the TQ. At any time when this is happening, touching the fuel pedal will open the brake as the controller senses acceleration. If you drive fast enough to lock the TQ, 35 with OD off, and roughly 45 with OD on, the TQ will stay locked and the brake will come on. The thing about the Banks brake is that it does not lock the TQ, it only keeps it locked upon decel until the lower limit speed is reached and then if deactivates. I did have at one time a problem with the brake not activating and it was an electrical issue. It was on my truck when I bought it and they used those 3M taps and one of them was faulty. Check all you connections. You can also call Jim at Banks and he will tell you how to test the pins for the proper voltages.

 

[MMcLeran]

Allnew2Me,

Thanks for the help. Good info and I'll follow-up.

Mike

Nevada City

 

[Allnew2Me]

Another thing you can check is the vacuum solenoid. Usually it is mounted on the passenger firewall above and behind the airbox. You can run a hot test wire from the battery to the soleniod and listen to hear if it clicks. At least you will know that it is okay. Also you can pull the vacuum hose that runs to it when the engine is running and check for vacuum.