Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
What started out as trying to reset the APPS today turned into an all evening affair modifying & fixing my battery box(es) and the way the relays that my sport headlights are mounted.
THIS is what it looked like on the day of the headlight install. It was closer to the end of the install and I was ready to be DONE so I zip tied them to the battery hold down bolts. It worked, but it wasn't neat or clean.
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The mounting holes on the battery box had long ago broken and the bottom of the "J" bolt didnt hold anymore. I had basically always just held them in as best as I could figure it out and went with it.
I removed both boxes from the truck and used a piece of 2" thin angle aluminum and reinforced the rear hold down location. I cut it to fit in the space and secured it with a couple of short bolts with nuts. Finally drilled a hole in the middle for the hold down bolt to hold in.
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Then I shaved the front of the plastic box with a sawzall and used a piece of 1/2" angle aluminum attached with a couple of short nuts & bolts to the bottom of the box on the inside. I then drilled a hole in the middle for the hold down bolt.
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A view of both boxes re-installed. You can see both of the new hold downs & the drilled holes.
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Next I took a piece of the wider angle aluminum and cut a short piece to mount the relays for my sport headlights to. Two small nuts & bolts were used to attach them to the bracket.
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Drilled a hole in the top and used the inside battery hold down bolt for mounting. I then used a small "L" bracket I had in my junk box and attached it in the same spot and slid the "clip" on the side of the fuses down on the bracket. Look closely and you can see the bracket.
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This is the drivers side. Basically was done the same way. Very little difference.
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Hope this might give someone an idea for something for yourself. I was just tinkering around and like a lot of times I just decided to do this kind of at the last minute.
Few pointers:
All of the bolts holding the boxes in are 1/2". Two screws into the fender; two nuts in the bottom of the box, and two nuts on the under side of each battery box that are accessed from the under side of the truck near the inner fender liner. 1/2" shallow well socket did the truck for me.
The cruise control servo must be disconnected and removed from the drivers side box. There are three [I believe] 3/8" screws holding it on.
There are two plugs that must be unplugged from the drivers side box. One goes to the servo for the cruise control, the other to some unknown round plug under the drivers side battery.
I found the plasitc vacumm line going into the cruise servo was broken almost off, so I fixed that.
I also found that it is easiest to just go buy all new hold down bolts. I picked them up at oreilleys for about 3 bucks per set. Use the 8" version. The 10 & 12 inch versions are too tall.
Any questions comments or smart remarks are welcome!!
Thanks
Craig
THIS is what it looked like on the day of the headlight install. It was closer to the end of the install and I was ready to be DONE so I zip tied them to the battery hold down bolts. It worked, but it wasn't neat or clean.
#adThe mounting holes on the battery box had long ago broken and the bottom of the "J" bolt didnt hold anymore. I had basically always just held them in as best as I could figure it out and went with it.
I removed both boxes from the truck and used a piece of 2" thin angle aluminum and reinforced the rear hold down location. I cut it to fit in the space and secured it with a couple of short bolts with nuts. Finally drilled a hole in the middle for the hold down bolt to hold in.
#ad#adThen I shaved the front of the plastic box with a sawzall and used a piece of 1/2" angle aluminum attached with a couple of short nuts & bolts to the bottom of the box on the inside. I then drilled a hole in the middle for the hold down bolt.
#adA view of both boxes re-installed. You can see both of the new hold downs & the drilled holes.
#ad#adNext I took a piece of the wider angle aluminum and cut a short piece to mount the relays for my sport headlights to. Two small nuts & bolts were used to attach them to the bracket.
#adDrilled a hole in the top and used the inside battery hold down bolt for mounting. I then used a small "L" bracket I had in my junk box and attached it in the same spot and slid the "clip" on the side of the fuses down on the bracket. Look closely and you can see the bracket.
#adThis is the drivers side. Basically was done the same way. Very little difference.
#adHope this might give someone an idea for something for yourself. I was just tinkering around and like a lot of times I just decided to do this kind of at the last minute.
Few pointers:
All of the bolts holding the boxes in are 1/2". Two screws into the fender; two nuts in the bottom of the box, and two nuts on the under side of each battery box that are accessed from the under side of the truck near the inner fender liner. 1/2" shallow well socket did the truck for me.
The cruise control servo must be disconnected and removed from the drivers side box. There are three [I believe] 3/8" screws holding it on.
There are two plugs that must be unplugged from the drivers side box. One goes to the servo for the cruise control, the other to some unknown round plug under the drivers side battery.
I found the plasitc vacumm line going into the cruise servo was broken almost off, so I fixed that.
I also found that it is easiest to just go buy all new hold down bolts. I picked them up at oreilleys for about 3 bucks per set. Use the 8" version. The 10 & 12 inch versions are too tall.
Any questions comments or smart remarks are welcome!!
Thanks
Craig
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