Battery Disconnect

[mwilson]

I have destroyed two deep cycle batteries over the last 5 years in the fifth wheel. I take the battery out in the winter, etc. but two seasons seems to be the limit.

I have decided after much reading on here that the trailer is overcharging them and what I really need is a battery maintainer rather than the factory inverter/charger that the trailer came with.

Was trying to find a quick way to solve the problem and came up with this idea, only have about $25. 00 in it.

I simply added a relay and switch to isolate the battery when the trailer is plugged in for long periods of time. I also wanted an easy way to operate it without have to crawl into the forward compartment.



I placed a push-pull marine switch right above the landing leg control. I wired it to ground the relay for actuation.



I can reach it easily hooked to the truck or not. I will let the battery charge for a day, then isolate it. I can engage it again before operating the slide or the landing legs.



Thoughts???



The final picture is still lacking one cable, I installed it tonight. It goes from the post on the solenoid where the red wire is to the battery.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Mike,



What you should do is replace the converter with a Progressive Dynamics Converter with the Charge Wizard. Your batteries will stay maintained at full charge and won't "boil" dry from overcharging.

Progressive Dynamics for RV and Marine electronics and lighting.



No switches and/or relays needed.



Bill

 

[mwilson]

If this test proves to make the battery last longer I will upgrade to the Progressive Dynamics unit for next year's camping season. I have been interested in one ever since I saw them first mentioned on TDR.



I am taking the camper to Campobello Island for the long weekend and wanted something I could put into use right now.

I had most of the stuff laying around escept for the solenoid which I picked up at NAPA for $13. 00 while doing a dump run Saturday morning.

We typically leave the camper plugged into shore power while it is parked at home as it gets used for a grandkid retreat as much as anything... .



There is one small flaw in my jury rigged set-up... . if the battery goes dead it won't energize the solenoid and I will have to jump the terminals.....



All in the name of research... .



Mike.

 

[LRutigliano]

Mike,



Cool idea !



Please consider covering the positive posts on the battery and the relay/solenoid...



Exposed positive posts scare the %^$% out of me...

 

[mwilson]

Mike,



Cool idea !



Please consider covering the positive posts on the battery and the relay/solenoid...



Exposed positive posts scare the %^$% out of me...

Agreed, I plan on splitting a rubber hose to slide on the posts.



But the only thing that lives in that corner right now is a green plastic beach pail that belongs to the grandkids... . I took the metal bail off so it couldn't flip back and short anything out. . will put it back on before they take it to the beach



Mike.

 

[Bill Stockard]

We typically leave the camper plugged into shore power while it is parked at home as it gets used for a grandkid retreat as much as anything... .



Mike.

All the more reason why you need a PD converter with the Charge Wizard.



I leave our camper plugged in 24/7 almost continuously for the nine years we've owned it and only have to add a small amount of distilled water about every three to four months or when I remember to check it. I replaced the original battery with a Wal-Mart deep cycle flooded cell battery about two years ago.



Bill

 

[mwilson]

Mike,



Cool idea !



Please consider covering the positive posts on the battery and the relay/solenoid...



Exposed positive posts scare the %^$% out of me...

Missed the mention of the battery the first time that I read your post, there is a full vented cover that encloses the battery. It is swung over out of the way in the photos... .

The only exposed terminals are on the solenoid right now.



Mike.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Nice job! My Mobile Suites has a switch like that in the landing gear compartment. I turn it on when I move to another campground and when I get there I turn it off. That way I know there will be no overcharging, the batteries are expensive 6v in series Interstate. I check the water level at the first of each month and change water filter.

 

[dresslered]

What you should do is replace the converter with a Progressive Dynamics Converter with the Charge Wizard.

Absolutely! Leave your camper plugged in. The Charge Wizard also offers a Battery Desulfation mode which routinely increased battery voltage for brief time intervals to mix up the battery electrolyte preventing battery stratification.



I wrote up an installation procedure awhile back for Converting the MagneTek 6325 Series Charger/Converter to theInteli-Power PD9160V and Charge Wizard PD9105V as was the case in my Bigfoot.

 

[mwilson]

Well, it lasted three years. It works great and I am still on the same battery that I installed in 2012.

When I put the trailer into service last week I had no power for the landing gear and was nowhere near a 120 volt plug in. The solenoid would clunk as it should when activated but no power getting through. Shorted across the relay terminals and then had power. Bypassed it long enough to go camping and ordered a heavy duty Cole Hersee constant duty 200 amp version.

Put it in today and it works great. Probably will never get the battery tender for this trailer now, the switch and relay work great.

The 2012 solenoid....

The new one...

All back together...

All packed up and ready for the next trip..

 

[mwilson]

I just noticed that the 2012 photos were taken just before I put the Group 31 battery box in. Today's photos show the new box.

The group 31 is the way to roll, we test many of the Group 31 batteries turned in for core value and most of them are fine. They simply need a proper trickle charge for 24 hours and then will test a solid 100%. Never have to buy another battery.....

 

[p-Bar]

I installed 2 6v Trojans and also bought 2 6v battery toppers 200ma each . I have a shut off for my batteries and unplug the converter . Will need to look into one of these high tech converters. The only only thing I like about the way I did is each battery is being charged independently. When I bought the batteries I brought my VOM with me and the guy let me measure them so I have a matched set .

 

[Dick Langendorff]

The Charge Wizard is the way to go. My 5th wheel is an '04. Came with two 6 volt Trojans and the Charge Wizard. My trailer is plugged in all of the time while it is parked at the house. That is 11 years on the same batteries. I check and add distilled water when they are a little low.

 

[CBari]

I sell power wheelchairs and have access to gel cell batteries at really good prices, about 11 years ago my LQ horse trailer batteries were dead so I called the factory and asked them if they had anything for RV's. The told be about their 6 volt batteries so I bought 2 and put them in series. They warned me not let the truck or the onboard charger charge them greater that 13.6 but 13.4 would be better. I checked the voltage to them with the trailer on shore power and it never gets above 13.3 and have checked it on the truck and it never has been greater than 13.2. The trailer stays plugged in year around and I haven't had any trouble for 11 years. (The are probably dead now that I said something.)