BD Exhaust Brake

[endoscott]

I had a BD exhaust brake installed about a year ago or so and it worked perfectly up to now, but all of a sudden it quit working. I took it to the shop who installed it and they found a "burnt relay" and replaced it and said it was fine. Still didn't work though. Took it back and the guy said the compressor works, the circuits are all good now and that it just comes on slowly so it won't sound like it used to. I think that is not correct but I am not a mechanic. However I am not an idiot either. I will drive it again tonight, but I don't think it will be working. I have the switch on the gearshift lever and when I switch it on it lights, but nothing happens and I don't hear it engaging and disengaging. I mean it's hard to miss right? It doesn't sound like anything is happening at all. Is it possible that the compressor is working and the gate is moving but not completely or something? Anyone else had problems with a BD exhaust brake? It probably only has 10,000 miles on it but I haul a camper and a boat and we have lots of hills so I use it a lot.

 

[JFN]

I had a BD exhaust brake installed about a year ago or so and it worked perfectly up to now, but all of a sudden it quit working. I took it to the shop who installed it and they found a "burnt relay" and replaced it and said it was fine. Still didn't work though. Took it back and the guy said the compressor works, the circuits are all good now and that it just comes on slowly so it won't sound like it used to. I think that is not correct but I am not a mechanic. However I am not an idiot either. I will drive it again tonight, but I don't think it will be working. I have the switch on the gearshift lever and when I switch it on it lights, but nothing happens and I don't hear it engaging and disengaging. I mean it's hard to miss right? It doesn't sound like anything is happening at all. Is it possible that the compressor is working and the gate is moving but not completely or something? Anyone else had problems with a BD exhaust brake? It probably only has 10,000 miles on it but I haul a camper and a boat and we have lots of hills so I use it a lot.

The butterfly shaft piston attach pins and all movable points need lubrication, in my opinion every oil change, all I can say is Pacbrake make a product that does the job as the lubricant needs to be a high temp lube, in the aviation industry it's called Mouse milk. Sounds like this is your problem.

 

[ScottLewis]

I had a BD brake on my '98 and never had a problem with it. I had a Jake on my '06 and have switched to a PacBrake.

From your description, I assume you have a compressor driven model. Do you still have the manual from BD? They usually offer suggestions and tips. Can you hear the compressor charging the air supply? If yes then the problem may be in the control valve portion of the system which includes everything from the compressor to the brake actuator itself, plus electrical issues like the relay. Without knowing the specific model, it’s difficult to offer much help.

In the past, the BD web site and staff always provided good information for me when I still had my '98 and after I installed my BD Cooldown Timer on the '06. They also had a forum somewhat like this one where members could provide some answers. Do a search on BD Power. Or use this link: http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/contactus/

Suggest you fill in your profile so we can see what truck, trans. , etc you have to help us better respond.

 

[endoscott]

Thanks, it is a 2003, Quadcab 3500, basically no mods, 70,000 miles. I will try the BD power website. I bought it after talking to Dave Dias at BD Power but he is not there any more. He was really knowledgeable. I'm sure they have someone else there who can help me.

 

[CKelley1]

i will help you. the bd is the best. as you look at the control, the air comes in on the left, there is a sensor switch that is in series with the compressor. when brake is called for the compressor is turnd on and the sensor shuts it off at about 120psi and on at about 90. next to a regulator, there is a sticker on the regulator adjustment knob that has 65 on it next to a solenoid valve to send air to the cylinder on the elbow to close the butterfly. the air fitting on the cylinder is 1/4 inch tubing. if you push down on the collar of the fitting with one hand you can pull the tubing out with the other hand. get a 80 to 120 psi gauge and some black tubing from wallmart for evaprative cooler water line. connect the gauge to the solenoid where the cylinder was connected. there is a wire coming from the ecm to the solenoid that they replaced. i think it is either pin 39 or 42. skin the wire before it reaches the relay and short it to ground. you do not have to have the motor running or the key on. the compressor should start running and shut off when it reaches psi the gauge should read exactly 65 psi. i think you will find the idiots that worked on it did one of two things. if they misadjusted the regulatot to a lower setting it can no longer hold the required 60 psi back pressure, reset to 65 psi if no reading on gauge he did not wire the solenoid back in. the 2nd pix shows a switch where i said to short it to ground, i can turn on the switch and connect a air hose to the added fitting #ad

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[BD-Hector]

I'm Hector with BD I've been in the engine and exhaust brake industry for over 20 years, they are quite simple systems once you know the opperation of them. Give me a call so we can walk through this 1-800-887-5030 ext 106



Hector