Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Bed fuel sender access door cutting question

[Muleskinner]

I'm getting ready to cut out an access door in the floor of my bed to gain access to my fuel tank sender. Has anyone done this before and if so, do you have any tips for me?

 

[Tcolesanti]

Why are you putting in an access door in? Why dont you just run it low on fuel, use a floor jack. And lower the tank out from underneath the bed. The tank is made out of plastic its light, especially with only a gallon or two in it. This would be a better method than cutting your bed.

 

[Muleskinner]

The reason I was thinking about an access door was that someone in a prior post regarding sending unit problems said they had done it. Also, I want a way to pull the sender out and clean the sock occasionally due to the algae problem. Once the sender is out, do most leave the sock off or just clean it and put it back on?

 

[Ncostello]

If all you have is an access door... you'll have to probably buy the special spanner wrench to get the poly nut off. I'm talking about the large diameter ring you see on the outside that holds it all in place. I used a blunt punch and some light taps with a wood mallet to spin mine loose... but that takes just the right angle and you probably wont get that with just an access hole. But you might be able to. Just a thought. If it was like mine... there is no hand removal of it. Hint: Paint the locking nut with a mark so you can tighten it back to where it was. Its hard to gauge torque on something like that. If its too loose it could work its way off perhaps or not be air/water tight.



I gutted my filter fabric but I'd only do so if you install a filter prior to the lift pump. That fabric will stop alot of junk from getting into the lift pump. After 80,000 miles my filter fabric looked OK for use. No strange buildup or algae problem here... but you may have a different problem.



You might have a metal fab shop make you a piece of sheet metal contoured to fit the bed floor so it makes a nice cover that overlaps a couple inches on the remaining floor sheet metal.

 

[Honker]

I just changed my sending unit thee other day. Went very easy, just drop down spare tire. Take out eight bolts holding down bed to frame,easily accessible. Dealer told me to leave in rear bolts just catch them by a couple threads so when you jack up bed it wont slide back. I jacked up the front of bed, had about 12 inches of boards where front mounting bolts go thru frame. Sat under truck and had plenty of room to lift sender out. My biggest problem was getting off fuel lines, all rusted up. Dont forget to disconnect grounding strap passenger side cab to bed. I have 70,000 miles on my truck and sock was clean. Take a look at post I did the other day. Fuel Sending Unit. Good Luck

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Heey Honker Snow starting to melt yet ?



Anyhow. An access panel isn't a BAD idea but for what it's worth there should really not be a need to access the unit that frequently. Keep up on the fuel that is in your tank with a power services additive or Howe's (I use the latter) and you should not have any issues with algae. For the amount of times you may need to get to it I would simply do the bed unbolt deal.



You could go the ULTIMATE and grab a hydrollic bed lift kit and not only will you have push knob sending unit access, but you could dump payload easier too Oo.

 

[Honker]

Hello Tool Man

Snow is a gone up here,but we supposed to get 3 inches tommorow. I was using Stanadyne until I moved up here from Long Island, could not find it up here, so I switched over to Power Service this winter after I had gelling problem Temp got down to 28 below.

 

[y-knot]

To me it sounds as if you are taking the very long way around the problem approach. Like the others have stated it is not that big on a problem, nor does cutting a hole in your bed sound reasonable. You can drop the fuel tank, or remove the bed, with the first being the easier of the two. The access door would be ok if this was something that is a constant problem, up it is more like a once in a life time thing.

If I was to follow your reasoning, People would cut an access door in there fenders to service the fuel filter, at least this is something that you would do over and over.

 

[Muleskinner]

I appreciate the replies. The only reason I was going to take the sender out was to check and possibly get rid of the sock after reading all of the posts about algae. I have no present problem and don't want to make work for myself.



By the sound of the reply posts, with no current problem, I should forget about taking the sender off to check the sock, as I live in SO Cal and fuel up at well maintained new stations.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Originally posted by Honker

supposed to get 3 inches tommorow.

Man no rest for you guys up there. I saw the 11 foot storm and I was WOWED.



Anyhow. Also like the other guys have stated and myself included, Keep on top of lubricity , and algae issues (And heck just overall cleen fuel) with an additive. I use Howe's Faithfully and even in Stupid freezing temps (-26 Ambient a few months back) The truck fired right up no quams. And never have seen any swill in the fuel filters either.

 

[Peter Campbell]

I have been in and out of my fuel system several times- see AERO threads. I now know how to remove the bed- pull the truck out from underneath and do the work- then put it back on. It is actually not that hard to do. 6 bolts @stupid torque ( factory locktite ) and the wireing clips and a grounding strap. Then a way to hoist it to your garage ceiling 400# or so?? not that heavy, can be done with 4 guys. 2 guys if it is a beater truck. If doing it manually remove the tailgate first that is around 40-50#. At the same time is a good time to put on the mag-hytech and the 5" or 4" exhaust, also some new shocks ( bilsiens or t-rex) and get the goosneck hitch done.

 

[HerbW]

Muleskinner,

I was going to do the same thing you wanted to do, but there is a bed support directly over the unit you have to unscrew that would have to be cut and braced. I was going to use a round access door like what I have in the bottom of my boat. They look nice, unscrew off and comes in a few different colors. I'm pulling my tank tomorrow for #3 float to go in with 62K miles on the truck! HerbW

 

[HerbW]

I decided not to cut the hole before now. The hole idea was to get to it without the PIA of lying on a cold concrete floor to fix a Dodge defect every two years. When I just changed it last weekend, I broke the PLASTIC that surrounds the filler neck. This is due to it being 39 degrees in the barn and I guess I should of removed the four screws the hold it together under the cap. I needed to use my cap key to get access and thought I could pull the hoses off as I did before without doing the cap. I guess it's off to the Dodge boys for the fix now. I wish someone would come up with a permanent sender so once each truck would be enough for the changeout. Thanks, HerbW

 

[tractorface]

No hole on short bed

As Herb W stated earlier, on short beds the truck bed brace is in the way and you would most likely need to remove the bed to properly modify it for the acccess hole. Not sure about long beds. Removing the bed is very easy.

 

[HerbW]

Actually I have a long bed.

I have a long bed truck and the support brace is directly over the part you want to remove. I recommend when removing the tank, first remove fuel cap and then the four screws underneath it to free the metal fill tubes. That cheap plastic spill guard is costing me $25 plus to replace tomorrow. I had to special order it. The new sender unit has a much longer float rod than the first defective two. The longer float rod will slow down the bounce and wear I guess. A "New" design. The Dodge ******* said it is now guaranteed for two years. Maybe it's better, time will tell. Good luck to all with crappy senders. HerbW

 

[tractorface]

Even better sender

The sender I am using has no moving parts and is very accurate. The cost is reasonable, forgot exactly but around $45 or so. The only downfall is that it will require either modification to the fuel module or cutting a hole in the top of the tank. I am home now and don't have the details available but can post later i any one is interested. I know of one other member that is running a Centroid sender as well. Just another idea, take it for what its worth.