Been to 2 shops, no one knows the answer. Noise and vibration, tire wear pattern.

[KRStone]

96 Ram 2500
very low frequency noise, intermittent, sounds like the rear of the truck.
Slight sensation in the floorboards, when sound is audible.

Sound on steady speed or acceleration, not on decel or downhill.
It sounds like a whirring groan, each cycle is half a second with a quarter second pause, then repeats.

Right rear tire shows wear pattern, like the rubber is being smeared off the tire sideways.

Had 4 wheel alignment done, no problems there.

Rubber edges are very strange. Please see the pics, one has a penny to show scale of "overhang". The other picture, zoom into the top outside edge of the tire, where it is silhouetted by the mud flap, see the 'flap' hanging off the edge of the tread?

went back to tire store today, removed that right rear tire, balanced tires. The right rear was slightly out of round, removed it from the wheel and had spare (new, never used) mounted in its place. Also rotated tires. Drove home, no change.

First thing when it is cold, I don't notice it. It takes five minutes of driving to hear and feel it. When the truck is warm, it happens right away.

It is not engine speed dependent, it is ground speed dependent.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Tuesdak]

Why says the "rotation" did any good for tires? They look funny so make sure they are not separating, out of round, etc. Were they balanced when rotated?

Have someone follow your truck and see if the wheels (front to rear) are going down the road "in line" rather than the rear tracking to one side. Check suspension components like leaf spring bushings for wear, broken spring, broken frame... Put the rear end up on jackstands in a place where you have room in front of the truck. Wind it up to speed and see if you can pinpoint the noise. If you don't get any noise shift to 4x4 with all 4 tires in the air and see if the noise happens then. You might turn things by hand first to see if anything shows up. I would check the drive shaft, center bearing, transfer case, and differentials. Both oil condition and bearings for slop. The front end gets special attention for unlocking the hubs, u joints etc.

Keep in mind the weight of the truck can move a bushing that's failed although it centers up without weight on it.

 

[KRStone]

I like the idea of getting the rear up and testing for the noise.

I clarified my original post, I had tires balanced and then rotated, and had the right rear replaced with the spare because of the damage and he said it was slightly out of round.

 

[rotohead]

Hear's a thought.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/259335-Dana-70-hub-defect-on-98-5

 

[KRStone]

I have jacked up and placed the axle on jackstands many times, but how to take the weight off the rear springs? I can't visualize how to jack up the body?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I have jacked up and placed the axle on jackstands many times, but how to take the weight off the rear springs? I can't visualize how to jack up the body?

Support the frame rails with jackstands. Not easy to do without taller heavy duty stands.

 

[JR]

I believe the best place is under the hitch. It does require some creative rigging to make it happen. The good thing is the rear is significantly lighter than the front.

 

[KRStone]

Removed front driveline from vehicle and test drove it. I had the double cardan replaced in february...no change. Noise and vibration still there.

Driver front unit bearing has been replaced, but passenger has 200k on it. I thought i had replaced it. Picked up new timken unit bearing today (part store actually had one), will R&R tomorrow evening and test drive.

Then the plan is to replace rear driveline propeller shaft joint and center bearing as these are orig with 268k miles.

Then on to rear axle if problem still exists.

 

[Killer223]

open the rear dif up and see if you had a bearing go bad, same with the axle ends. sounds like you had a bearing failure in the rear end and the axle it moving a bit.

wheel lugs tight?

 

[NIsaacs]

Then on to rear axle if problem still exists.

This is where you need to start. Nothing on the front axle or drive shaft has anything to do with the right rear tire smearing the tread off. Since you have a visual of an obvious issue, the tire smearing and vibration are likely connected. I know you said the truck had 4 wheel alignment done but I would check it myself. Measure the center of the rear axle against the center of the front axle, both sides. I think you have a broken center bolt or a spring was changed that is a mismatch, the distance from center bolt to front eye bolt mount.

Nick

 

[fest3er]

IMO, the wear in the second pic cannot come from the tire rubbing the ground. To leave that 'overhang' requires something to rub the tire below/inside it (toward the wheel). Mudflap? Wheel well liner?

 

[KRStone]

I need to check tonight.
I have never opened the rear hubs, i have the FSM to guide me.

I will measure center to center as well.

No rubbing, wheel liner and mudflap are secure.

 

[KRStone]

I am going to have a look in the differential and at the rear hubs.

The FSM merely say "Remove axle", then "Remove hub". I can't find any videos on utoob describing or showing this process.

Am I looking in the wrong place in the FSM? Is it so simple they don't need to provide steps?

What size socket do I need for the axle hub nut?

 

[B.G. Smith]

The axle has a flange on the outer end (the eight bolts you see in center of hub) and can be pulled out when you remove the eight bolts. Don't thin you are going to find the problem there. If the hub nut came loose the hub, wheel and axle could walk out causing the tire to rub on the fender but you can bet it would not go back in place while driving. Don't know the size of the hub nut but if the seals are not leaking or you can detect play in the bearings I wouldn't remove it. The damage on the tire looks like something came in contact with it while moving, have you hauled anything that extended out over that side of truck or been stuck in mud or sand and spun the rear tires.

 

[fest3er]

2-9/16", very thin wall. The one I got from AmPro has a 3/4" square drive.

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm sure Geno's can set you up with any special axle nut sockets.

 

[Bob4x4]

Check in the brake section of the FSM ,some years will have the info there

 

[KRStone]

How much side to side play is acceptable in the rear driveline center bearing? I dont have a gauge, but i can feel it clunk about 1/8 inch, probabky a bit more. Rubber bearing surround looks a bit smaller (shrunk) than the metal housing. Not sure how much is acceptable.

 

[fest3er]

Generally, 'clunking' means it's worn out. The rubber is supposed to hold it fairly rigidly; you can move it a little by hand, but there should be no thunking.

 

[Wayne M.]

No clunking in the center bearing! Usually when they wear, they sound like a dry bearing / old roller skate before they get play in them. I've seen them seize up too.
If in doubt, safer to just change it.