Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Bell housing question

[HCanales]

I am in the process of changing my clutch and I have a question on

seperating the bell housing vs. leaving it together with the gearbox.

The only thing about seperating the bell housing I'm concerned with is the

alignment. If you folks have any pros and cons, please share.

Thanks HCanales

 

[NBowlin]

If I am thinking about the same thing you are. You should have an alignment too, or you can use your input shaft. Once you get the clutch up there leave the pressure plate loose get'er all lined up then you can tighten it into place. The transmission can be wrestled around enough under there to get it started.

 

[HCanales]

Its not the clutch alignment I'm concerned with, its the bell housing alignment I'm more concerned with. I read some thing on centerforce

instructions implying you need a dial indicator to align the bell housing

with the transmission.

HCanales

 

[NBowlin]

Oh.

I have had mine in and out of my truck a few times and never had an issue with the bell housing. There are alignment post things one on each side that fit in the bolt holes in the bell housing to keep it in place. or are you talking about where it mates to the transmission box, sorry that just hit me, line up the bolt holes and sinch it down. there isnt a lot of play at all in those holes. . my experience anyhow...

 

[JGK]

When a friend and I changed the clutch in mine last month, we also put in a 1-3/8" input shaft. That meant separating the bell housing from the transmission. So the question came up, would it be easier to put the bell housing on over the new clutch, then try to put the transmission on while threading the input shaft through the throw out bearing then the clutch plates, or put the housing back on the transmission and bolt it all up to the back of the engine. We decided on the latter. Since the housing requires lining things up using the bolt holes and the 2 alighment pins mentioned by NBowlin, which are way out on the outter edge of the housing, these, I think, actually make it easier to get the shaft threaded into the clutch.



So I say keep the housing bolted to the transmission. Of course, it helps to have a good transmission jack with good adjustability to get things lined up. Also, using 2 people, one on either side as it comes together, makes a big difference.



FWIW...

-Jay

 

[HCanales]

Thanks guys, I should be a little more clear on what I'm talking

about. Here is a web site for the instructions I was talking about:



http://www.centerforce.com/technical_inserts/I00CH005.pdf



I just don't get it!!! If you have alignment pins and bolts which only permit

the bell housing to go on one way than how can this be an issue?



Well, I guessing it will be to my best interest to do like Jay said and leave

it together, I'm not sure at this point in time.

HCanales

 

[DTroy]

The improper run-out that Centerforce refers to, is the centerline of the bellhousing to the centerline of rotation of the crankshaft.



If your truck has been on the road for eight years and you haven't experienced failures associated with incorrect run-out, it's pretty safe to say that it was machined correctly. But it wouldn't hurt to check. It's easy to do.



As far as separating the bellhousing from the transmission or the engine... your run-out will stay the same. As you know, the bellhousing position is maintained by the dowel pins. The bellhousing to transmission alignment is maintained by machining the bellhousing bore and a close tolerance input shaft bearing retainer. Anyone that's had one apart can tell you that it's a nice fit.



I wouldn't recommend installing the transmission and the bellhousing separately. It's too easy to damage a pressure plate finger, etc. .





Hope this helps.



P. S. Offset dowel pins are weaker (smaller cross section)... that's why they're not used on the mighty Cummins.

 

[HCanales]

The improper run-out that Centerforce refers to, is the centerline of the bellhousing to the centerline of rotation of the crankshaft.



If your truck has been on the road for eight years and you haven't experienced failures associated with incorrect run-out, it's pretty safe to say that it was machined correctly. But it wouldn't hurt to check. It's easy to do.



As far as separating the bellhousing from the transmission or the engine... your run-out will stay the same. As you know, the bellhousing position is maintained by the dowel pins. The bellhousing to transmission alignment is maintained by machining the bellhousing bore and a close tolerance input shaft bearing retainer. Anyone that's had one apart can tell you that it's a nice fit.



I wouldn't recommend installing the transmission and the bellhousing separately. It's too easy to damage a pressure plate finger, etc. .





Hope this helps.



P. S. Offset dowel pins are weaker (smaller cross section)... that's why they're not used on the mighty Cummins.

DTroy,

Thanks a whole lot! Thats what I needed to know before I tear this

clutch out. With that being said, "I will leave it together" and I appreciate

all your guys support also.

HCanales