Bench Test Starter

[AlanBG]

Hi, I installed new solenoid contacts and plunger, but still just hear a bunch of clicking when I try to start my truck. I would like to hook up a spare 12 volt battery to my starter (its back out of the truck) to see if it works. What do I need to do? I tried connecting the postive cable of a set of jumper cables to the battery terminal connection on the starter and touched the neg. cable to the case, but couldn't get anywhere. Do I need to also connect to the solenoid terminal? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DValentine]

Yes you have to energize the solenoid as well as have the main positive post energized to have the starter spin. To check the solenoid you just need to energize the solenoid, and the starter won't spin.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

My neighbor had the same problem ith his '91. 5. To test it on the truck I hooked a jumper wire to the positive battery terminal and touched the solenoid wire - top wire on the solenoid - and the starter worked just fine. His problem was the starter relay - mounted on the drivers side fender. He has temporarily run a hot wire through an old style push button starter switch. Just remember if you have a muanual trans to put it in neutral.



Bob

 

[AlanBG]

Thanks for the info on bench testing the starter. I hooked the postive cable to both the battery terminal connection and the solenoid connection, and grounded the case, which caused the bendix gear to shoot out and spin and do its thing. Before I reinstalled the starter, which I had now concluded was working, I replaced the starter relay with a new dealer part @ $35. 00. I guess you must have figured out the end of this story by now. All I get is clicking when I try to start my truck. Any other troubleshooting ideas would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks!

Alan

 

[SCClockDr]

Alan this may seem a stupid suggestion BUT make sure ALL the battery posts are tight as well as the chassis/engine grounds.

They may need to be disconnected and cleaned/burnished.

 

[flyby night]

When you get the clicking sound, what does your battery voltage drop down to? Are you sure your batteries are good?

 

[Greenleaf]

I have my batteries go bad in about two years and have had the same situation. I trouble shoot everything, and clean everything and test all the electrical functions of all the parts and turns out that I simply use up a battery (Decka group 31 815 CCA) in two years. All I get is clicking.



Load test the battery and leave it disconnected from the truck overnight. Then retest the voltage. I find that when my batteries go bad, I have 10 volts after the truck sets. Also, test the amp draw of the truck electrical system. It should be very low like . 5 ma

 

[Greenleaf]

sorry... It is 5 m. a. (five) not . 5 and I have the factory radio. My 1990 with the CD player radio has a bit more draw at 25 m. a. and even at that the battery will not drain off.



50 milliamp draw would be getting high depending upon the equipment installed.

 

[AlanBG]

Greenleaf how do I load test the battery? Initially I checked the voltage on my Deka 1231PRF (1120CCA) and found 12. 5Volts. But the Deka is 5 years 2 months old. I am going to replace it in any case - just need to find a distributor in the DC metropolitan area. The guy I bought it from (R&R Battery Service in Arlington, VA) is out of business. Don't really want to drive to the East Penn Mfg. location in Baltimore, but will do it if I have to. Anyway, I had another old Kirkland battery (Group 34) in the backyard, and charged it up from 2 volts to 13 volts, but get the same clicking noise. But this battery is also a suspect batttery, so can't really conclude anything from this test. Also don't know how to test the amp draw of the truck. I can probably figure out how to turn the key though. Thanks for the help!

 

[JLEONARD]

In my opinion a standard automotive load tester won't tell you anything as it applies to these trucks.

My son has one and I've used it to test my battery. The tester said the battery was perfect, yet it was turning the engine over kind of slow on a warm day, wouldn't start it on a 30 degree day.

New battery problem solved.

I don't chase my tail any more, if I suspect the battery it gets replaced.

 

[Skydiver]

Alan when you have a few minutes read this.

Batteries -- and Other Electric Stuff by phred

 

[AlanBG]

Well, it was the battery. The new Deka 1231PMF (1260/1125CCA) turned it over at 32 degrees F with no problem. Only now my 1st gen. has new solenoid contacts and plunger, and a new starter relay. This same battery cost me $88. 00 five years ago; today it cost me $148. 00. I am assuming there is a lot of new technology that has been incorporated since then... On the other hand, the fact that it is not manufactured in China makes it worth the price. Thank you to the folks that helped me with this problem. I see the 1st generation membership has dwindled some since I purchased my truck. I will try to stick around and support this forum. THANKS AGAIN