Best Brake parts for brake job on the 2500...?

[JCockerill]

I pulled my left rear wheel off to inspect for some brake hang up. caliper is shot after 73k. . ok no problem. pull the rest of the wheels to see how rest of brakes are holding up. . all of my rotors are rusted out pretty bad on inside surface... pads were not bad. but now i have to change everything. .



I can get ACDelco brakes through my shop for decnt price. then i was looking at rockauto and they have a full set of powetstop brakes for $460 or so. i dont really want to use the drilled and slotted rotors as i dont think its needed on a truck. but the price is pretty good.



does anyone have and feedback on powerstop? or any other recomendations on what is a good rotor pad setup to use for the diesel 2500's? i tow, have big tires, plow, and pretty much use the truck for what it was intended to do. . be a truck, so im looking for heavy duty stuff that lasts, not cheapest **** on the shelf...



thanks

 

[JR]

If your looking for quality pads and rotors, check out ebc. I've got a set of pads and rotors on the front of my truck and have been happy with them. I have also heard good things about EGR, but have yet to order from them. I have been having a lot of warranty issues with NAPA calipers lately, and have really been eyeballing a set of calipers from EGR. I have a friend who put a set on the front of his 04 Ford and claims a solid improvement over OEM.

 

[seafish]

When It is time to do the brakes on mytruck, personally I will likely use the Mopar OEM Premium pads again on my 2005 truck, which have already lasted 90k with minimal dusting, with NO squeaking, NO fading and PLENTY of stopping power, and even plenty more miles left on them, even though I drive and brake hard ALOT on the curvy roads where I live.

It's hard for me to argue with the kind of success that I have gotten from the oem pads, even with their higher price.



That being said, I have heard some really good things about this line of USA made rotors and pads... what's nice, is you can pick your combination of linings badsed on your driving needs and habits.



http://www.thebrakeman.com/superbrakes

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm Still running the OE rear rotors at 105K and the fronts were changed when I did the hubectomy. I used mid grade wagner rotors and I used premium centric pads. I had good results. The rears are going away on the inside. I'm watching them but right now my mind is on the oil pan... .

 

[Regcabguy]

When It is time to do the brakes on mytruck, personally I will likely use the Mopar OEM Premium pads again on my 2005 truck, which have already lasted 90k with minimal dusting, with NO squeaking, NO fading and PLENTY of stopping power, and even plenty more miles left on them, even though I drive and brake hard ALOT on the curvy roads where I live.
It's hard for me to argue with the kind of success that I have gotten from the oem pads, even with their higher price.

That being said, I have heard some really good things about this line of USA made rotors and pads... what's nice, is you can pick your combination of linings badsed on your driving needs and habits.

http://www.thebrakeman.com/superbrakes

Just think if you would have bought an auto.

 

[BDaugherty]

By far I'm getting the best life and performance from OEM pads. My truck at 250k has original rotors. I found that aftermarket can stop as good as stock, but they don't last.

 

[seafish]

Just think if you would have bought an auto.

Totally true... I am sure that downshifting has given me more life on my brake pads.

 

[JCockerill]

ended up buying autopart international rotors and pads. we ue them at shop i work at and and have almost no comebacks or problems. and if i do have a problem i can just send them back. and i got everything at cost. . that helped make the decision a lot. i called egr brakes and the full set was over $1000 plus shipping... thats way too much to spend on a brake job... my stock rotors rusted away like they were on bottom of ocean after 75kmiles and 7 years... guess thats the northeast for you... not gonna spend 1000 bucks to rust away...

 

[JR]

Yeah, the salt makes owning anything nice tough and maintaining it even tougher... . I've been deuching my undercarriage with fluid film every year which has helped, I think. But parts like brakes and wheels and body panels still suffer I would rather they just plowed the roads and not treated em. I would deal with the ice and slower speeds over the cancer any day.

 

[JCockerill]

Yeah, the salt makes owning anything nice tough and maintaining it even tougher... . I've been deuching my undercarriage with fluid film every year which has helped, I think. But parts like brakes and wheels and body panels still suffer I would rather they just plowed the roads and not treated em. I would deal with the ice and slower speeds over the cancer any day.

How do u like the fluid film? How do u apply it?

 

[RDHamill]

I have 325,000 kms ( 200,000 miles) on my turck, still with the original rotors and original rear pads. Front pads were changed once.
I have to believe that the exhaust brake is the main reason the brakes have lasted so long, as the pads are at about 50% now.
While that's good, I will be changing all the brakes soon, as the rotors are a rusty mess.
Shame, not worn out, but corroded out.
I'll certainly be looking for quality parts, not cheap ones.

 

[JR]

I got turned onto it from my local parts guy, he was approached by Ohio DOT several yrs ago and asked to stock it for their equipment. They use it on all their plow/salt trucks and swear by it. I use a siphon style blowgun with a long suction hose and a modified tip (to encourage a little more flow ) so I don't have to drag the gallon jug around with me. It isn't the reccommended way to apply it, an airless paint sprayer with a . 017 Or larger tip is the cat's meow. I just haven't found a good enough deal on one to purchase, and I refuse to buy a cheap Home Depot special just to have one. My method works, and I can get into every crack and crevice with pin point accuracy, but you better plan on 3 to 4 hours to apply it. I generally split it up into 2 afternoons, so I don't try to get in too much of a hurry and skimp out when the patience runs thin . Plus spending that much time looking up does my neck in, too many hyrniated discs from my iron working days. I will generally try to wait as late in the fall as I can to hose the underside down, to provide the maximum protection to get through the winter.

 

[JCockerill]

I got turned onto it from my local parts guy, he was approached by Ohio DOT several yrs ago and asked to stock it for their equipment. They use it on all their plow/salt trucks and swear by it. I use a siphon style blowgun with a long suction hose and a modified tip (to encourage a little more flow ) so I don't have to drag the gallon jug around with me. It isn't the reccommended way to apply it, an airless paint sprayer with a . 017 Or larger tip is the cat's meow. I just haven't found a good enough deal on one to purchase, and I refuse to buy a cheap Home Depot special just to have one. My method works, and I can get into every crack and crevice with pin point accuracy, but you better plan on 3 to 4 hours to apply it. I generally split it up into 2 afternoons, so I don't try to get in too much of a hurry and skimp out when the patience runs thin . Plus spending that much time looking up does my neck in, too many hyrniated discs from my iron working days. I will generally try to wait as late in the fall as I can to hose the underside down, to provide the maximum protection to get through the winter.

im gonna try that this year,, how much to you need to do whole truck?

 

[JR]

You will need a gallon, I use a little less than 3/4 doing my truck.