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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Best chip for HR VP44

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil pressure sender

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission electrical problem

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I have found that my drag comp making very little more even possibly less power on any setting lower than 5x5. 5x5 makes lots of power and runs very smooth, 4x5, 3x5,etc sounds rough - to much timing or not enough, So I sent the comp box to Edge for a bench test and new wiring harness, but Iwas curious if anyone else ahd simular problems, or any success stories using other products on the Hot Rod VP44.



Thanks Bret.
 
i agree the comp does not make any power w/ the hrvp i get more smoke but i dont notice any more power! i wish i never went w/ the hrvp not impressed at all! i want the stock one back. :-{}
 
Probablly a good Fueling box like TST, or Bluechip would work best with the HRVP, because they already have timing set in the HRVP.
 
i vaguely remember another thread about hot rod pumps. one fellow stated there are two types of hrvp.



A is not really a hot rod pump at all, just has the electronics modified to complete the same task as a wire tap chip(meaning a wire tap will do nothing?)



B is a real hot rod pump with the bigger pistons etc.



food for thought... ... .
 
elandon1201 said:
So I may as well not even tap the pump wire with my comp?



You need to tap the wire to get the fueling ability's. By just plugging in, and no wire tap, you are just giving timing advances, and a different fueling curve.
 
Whiz Bang VP44

I just read a article about Injection Pump Upgrades. I don't know where they get their information but I just thought you may want to know. First of all, the pump housing does NOT fail due to the diaphram or seals failing. A new pump housing does not have a brass bushing and have never had a aluminum bushing. The new pump housings have been coming to us with steel bushings for over a year now. Bosch did change from steel bushings to brass for a very short time over a year ago, and due to early failures they changed back to a steel bushing housing which is current production. The advance piston has been updated to work with the steel advance bushing, it has been coated so that they don't gauld or transfer metal. The Fed Ex PSG or (computer) has been available for over a year and has been the only one you can buy from Bosch. However there is a new PSG (computer) which is an upgraded model that we have been using in our pumps for about a month now. So if they are selling brass bushing housings they would have to be selling old housings that have not been in the Bosch system for over a year. Thanks
 
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We use the HRVP's from Industrial and they work great for us. It works best with the Redline box from Bluechip but using it with a Comp has worked good for us also.
 
I talked to one guy that said the redline box wiped out 2 HRVP's in a 2 week period.



Fact or Fiction? I would like to know.
 
All boxes have at some time taken out VP44 pumps. I would rather leave that response alone that you are asking for. I will say this however, the more agressive you get with fueling boxes the bigger the possablity of taking out a VP44. Thanks
 
Good question Bob. I didn't know that the Redline was so hard on the HR's.



I had been considering upgrading from the FMS to the Redline.



hmm...
 
HRVP or SHO vp and other logical upgrades

I believe this thread has died out, but several observations.



My 2000 6speed 4. 1 rear 2wd

had vp44 fail, would not start, but once running it was perfect. 21 mpg city/hwy mileage, 15 mpg when towing.



I made all the mods I felt were necessary for the Edge J/A module:



1. 4" Magnaflow SS exhaust



fuel pressure would be 12 psi at idle and sometimes go down to 8 at wot.

I only used level 3 on street, and 2 when towing race trailer of 8,000 lbs



2. New carter liftpump with 1/2" Vulcan kit, plus Genos enlarged banjo bolts

Immediate improvement to 14 psi at idle, always above 10 psi at wot.



3. Installed SHOVP44. Idles lumpy sometimes, not really cammy, but rather like someone just shorting out ignition randomly. Not always rough however which is strange.



Did not pierce vp44 wire, and run Edge j/a at stock setting now.



Never smoked, now does when on boost around 1800-2200 rpm.



And EGT seems to really jump up faster than it did before.



Now starts up immediately!! First crank!!



Runs very smoothly, and seems to have at least equal power to #3 setting of previous stock vp44, but that did not have SMOKE!



When coasting not under load, throttle seems very sensitive and oscilates on off surging. Throttle seems much more sensitive.



I am concerned about mileage, as I have set back boost to 28 psi from 30 psi.

My first tank indicated with a 100 mile tow, to be 8 mpg! Same tow would have yield 15 mpg before, but not sure this was a good test as it was not long mileage.



So I am on the fence. The stock vp44 with pierced wire and setting variations was quite effective and mileage could always come back to reasonable levels.



The SHO VP44 does quite a job, and it does run quite well. Does the Edge j/a run this combination better with the pierced pmg wire?? One member hinted that it would run better with the total control over the system... I will question Edge on this, and also should the edge be set on a later year since the shovp44 must mimic a later year than my 2000.



Just another point, I replace the power steering pump while the 44 was off, and also replaced the diaphram and gasket for the vacuum pump while there. I have done everything upgrade/preventative at this point!



I bought the shovp44 since Industrial Injection said I would not experience a noticeable drop in mileage, because the increased power (they say 30%) would mean I would learn to "budget fuel delivery" They sold me when they said the re-build process was much more detailed on the SHO than others. Put the best in when you have the opportunity.



So what are other opinions/experiences? And is Edge better tapped into the brain of the vp44?



Experience counts here, opinions are second best.



Phil
 
Marco believes he knows the cause for the lopey idle and he is going to come up with a software file for the smarty to correct the lope.



This is after the cr smarty of course
 
i guess u answered my question on which box to go with... i want the lope to go away but dont want to downgrade power. .
 
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