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Best equipped towing rig

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Touring Kentucky - Need advice

How about getting a thread going to post your truck and list specifically what you have done to it to help for towing your rig. Photos please. Be specific to help others in rigging their tow vehicle.



Thanks
 
I'm in.



I have a 4x4 3500 SRW with a NV5600 and 4. 10 gears. I tow a 26' travel trailer/toyhauler.



I have added air bags to keep it level, in cab controls for the on board compressor which allows me to adjust the bags with ease.



For a brake controller, I went with a Prodigy. It works very well but not as well as a Brake Smart from what I understand.



I have added an aFe Stage II air filter/intake with a Pro Guard 7 filter and a Rokk Tech muffler to help lower the EGT while towing. Recently I have added a Smarty Jr for more power and cooler EGT.



I also have added Pricol boost and EGT gauges.



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The best equipment for towing is the CUMMINS TURBO DIESEL though!
 
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Towing is what it's used for, so here's what I've got:



I added a cummins of course to help pull:-laf.

I upgraded the transmission to a zf-6 with a us gear OD for better gearing and more splits with heavy loads. Also added a SBDD clutch to hold the power.

I put firestone air helper springs on the back to level the truck out.

Gauges monitor what's going on with the motor and the CB and radar detector keep me out of trouble.



The PDR towing twins keep the motor cool with the fuel I've got and a valet switch is used to lower the power even further for the real heavy loads.

My radiator has been upgraded to a 27row, 4core unit that cools alot better. The front end has been upgraded with a straight axle that handles more weight and has bigger brakes.

I put a cervini's chin spoiler on to help with air flow, but mostly for looks.

Some of the stuff I've done doesn't really pertain to a dodge, but I would suggest putting a Ford around those cummins:-laf j/k.



Check out the pics on nmtdr here-NMTDR.com :: Garage
 
crobertson1 & 12v ford



Thanks for your responses. It does not matter what brand you have the idea of what idividuals have done will give others more ideas of what can be done.



Thanx again



CumminZ:-laf
 
I have added;

FAST Coolers / NV5600
Con Ofe clutch
Mag Hyteck front and rear
Dynatrac Freespin
Reese 30k hitch
5000 lb air bags in rear
19. 5 Brentz wheels
Full Banks kit
ATS 3 piece manifold
FASS 150 w/ -8 AN fittings and line
PSC power steering
DSS
Jacobs Brake
Prodigy
Griffin Radiator and Intercooler
Rickson 19. 5's SW on the trailer
Airide Pin Box
100 gal auxillary fuel tank
1000 lb increase front springs
Bilstein 5100 series shocks
Full complement of Autometer carbon fiber gauges.

I think that I listed most of it... My trailer is an Everest 364Q and is heavy enough w/o all of the junk my wife and I have in it. Wet, the combo is @ 25k and we are full time rv'ers as my job mandates me being on the road all the time.
 
I bought my 97 5 speed new for towing the 22 foot 5er I had at the time. I now tow a 22 trailer and have added gauges (boost and pre turbo pyro), Prodigy, AFE Stage 1, 4 inch exhaust and SouthBend 450 hp clutch. The fuel plate has been adjusted and the 5th gear nut has been welded.
I added Bosch driving lights (100 Watt) and a stainless 3 piece air dam.
I have a HichHiker 5th wheel hitch and Reese tow hitch. Right now I run with a canopy with a 7" rise so I can get the mountain bikes in and out easily, it also helps with the aerodynamics when towing the trailer.
MobileMe Gallery
 
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My list is relatively short. I had a Transferflow fuel tank added,a suncoast coverter & valve body plus 275 injectors and a vanAaken box. Inside a P3 and Egt gauge and Navigation system. My Alpenlite weighs about 12. 5 K lbs.
 
Not all my mods were initially intended to be used for towing but I ended up transporting RVs for 2. 5 years so I am glad I had installed the NV5600 and Con OFE clutch. Of course the power mods, gauges, 4" exhaust, air filter and many other mods that were already there came in handy.



-B&W goose and companion 5th wheel hitchs

-Blue Ox weight distribution hitch (didn't use bars much)

-Air bags

-Prodigy brake controller

-CB (already there before driving)

-115 gal. aux. fuel tank

-low profile tool box

-extended mud flaps

-12v power outlet at back to run air compressor for air bags (didn't get fancy with onboard system)

-Putnam class 5 receiver to replace cracking stock one

-CIPA or Bestop extendable power/heated mirrors

-cell antenna

-built bed to replace rear seat and had a custom foam with zip on cover made.

-400w power inverter to run laptop (bought laptop specific for job too)

-exhaust brake



That's all the towing specific mods I can think of right now.



Lots of mods pictures here including some of the above mentioned: Picasa Web Albums - Mark - Truck Stuff
 
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Hi CP,



We spent several weeks last year and 2 years ago out thru your area. We loved the Moab area. Great looking truck. :-laf
 
My Dodge/Cummins (see signature) is completely stock. The only two things I added are the PullRite Receiver hitch and the BrakeSmart controller. Nothing else is needed.



Picture taken at Wolf Creek pass last fall.
 
I think one of the most important mods to a diesel truck would have to be a good set of gauges... . especially a modded truck. My truck doubles as my play-toy as has been set-up as such. I started with all the typical power-adding equipment and quickly learned that heat is a big enemy to diesel engines and uses extra fuel un-necessarily. I don't own a huge 5th wheel but I do tow a heavy enclosed trailer with all of my tools and parts on board ..... tows it with no problems and if I control my rt. foot,I have gotten as high as 14mpg at 65mph. My trailer weighs about 6Klbs.



Alan
 
Alan, I would like to add gauges on the driver's pillar, but I'm not willing to give up my grab handle. If I were to install the three pillar gauges, which gauges are the most necessary? I don't need a transmission temperature gauge since I have the NV5600 standard. When we stop for anything while towing, I check the temperature of all 10 tires, transmission and differentials with my Fluke inferred thermomotor. The transmission and differentials never get hot.
 
I know I am not Alan... But I think you will find that most would agree that a pyrometer, a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge are the primary 3 for a good basic setup. I have enough gauges to give an airplane a run. I want to add more... I use my truck hard and often. If you do not then you don't really need any more. I am a firm believer though in a trans temp gauge. I too have the NV5600 and having lost one already I think a temp gauge could have warned me. Gauges are a cheap tattle tale. Cheap both in initial cost and in avoiding the time and cost of repairs that could be avoided by seeing what the temp/psi is of the various items.
 
I love my underdrive the most. Splitting gears is great for pulling heavy trailers or finding that sweet spot (or closer to it) on the grades while maintaining speed.

I second (or it is third by now) the basic gauges: boost, pyro and fuel pressure.

Exhaust brake is a handy item to have as well.
 
Grizzly,



As Dave mentioned... . even a stock truck will benefit from a pyro and boost gauge. He mentioned a fuel pressure gauge but I don't think your truck would require that. The 2nd Gens like mine need a fuel pressure gauge and unless your truck has a programmer or 'chip' that changes your rail psi,I don't think it is necessary. Your truck is certainly capable towing what you have up any grade but a solid upgrade that would be worth the money would be an aftermmarket diff cover that holds a little extra fluid. Climbing long grades is hard on transmission's and diff's and you are wise for checking temps on tires and such after doing so.



Alan
 
Alan, I would like to add gauges on the driver's pillar, but I'm not willing to give up my grab handle. If I were to install the three pillar gauges, which gauges are the most necessary? I don't need a transmission temperature gauge since I have the NV5600 standard. When we stop for anything while towing, I check the temperature of all 10 tires, transmission and differentials with my Fluke inferred thermomotor. The transmission and differentials never get hot.



I'm not Alan either but you could do what i did. I put pyro, boost, and oil pressure on the pillar. And if you use the grab handle alot just use the steering wheel instead:-laf it works just as well
 
Thanks for the response Dave, Pavemen, Alan and Curtlee. Sounds like I could use a transmission temp gauge and a pyrometer. What a pyrometer and what's it for? My truck is not chipped, so what should the third gauge be?



I do plan on having a PacBrake installed this summer.
 
I think fuel pressure should be the third. w/o fuel you won't make any boost so the boost gauge is out. Since you don't have any mods that would increase your boost significantly that would be a second reason not to worry about the boost.

However, the fuel gauge will tell you if the engine is being fed in cases where your truck might be having a problem. It can also tell you if you have a dirty filter depending on where you hook up the gauge.
 
Grizzly,

I am not Allen either but I was reading your questions and concerns about the three gauge pod and grab handle loss.

I would recommend that you can use the single gauge pod with grab handle shown in Geno's Garage catalog on page 10 with the Boost gage in it. Then put either the two gauge pod on the steering column or behind the rereview mirror. You can mount the transmission and the fuel pressure gauges there, if this is what you want. You can also run the Weatach dual combo gauges, check page 9.

You also asked what is a pyrometry and what do you use this for? This is a temperature probe used for the Turbo. This can be placed either before or after the turbo. Mine is after the turbo in the exhaust manifold and I monitor my EGT (exhaust gas temp) when I am pulling along with my boost pressure.

Hope this helps you a little.
 
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