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Best Lube For Dana 80 LSD?

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1.2 miles to work, is this hard on the cummins??

Pennzoil 15W40 LongLife?

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Well now that I have a brand spanking new Dana 80 Mag-Hytec cover, I am going to need to fill it with something once I put it on the truck... So what do you guys recommend? Amsoil or LE? Any others that are good?

Thanks in advance!

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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers

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'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Mopar rubber mats, Cummins badging, SPA Technique boost & pyro gauges. 5,995 miles since 4/26/00! Look for me on AOL as “Beck2500!”
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Evan, After speaking with Roy at Mag-Hytec, I took his advice and bought LE oil. I've used Redline in the past, but did not find it to work well in diffs. I had premature spider/side gear wear in my Toyota using Redline.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

[This message has been edited by Dane (edited 07-17-2000). ]
 
The LE stuff is pretty spendy, but it seems to be the best there is. If you're going to be throwing on an HX40 and Stage IIIs, you want something that will help the rearend live as long as possible. The only downside is it doesn't have the viscosity range that synthetic lube has--it will be thicker in cold weather. But in Seattle that's not an issue #ad

Gotta see that truck again soon, sounds like
it's getting a fair amount of BOMBing these days #ad


Vaughn
 
LE also offers a 75W-140 synthetic gear lube for around $20. a quart. Evan, if you elect to go with the LE synthetic you will probably have to take out a loan to fill your Dana 80 with that new Mag-Hytec cover. #ad


I've been using Red Line synthetic gear lube in all my differentials for over 10 years now without any signs of wear exhibited on internal parts although, I may try the LE 75W-140 synthetic in my REAR differential the next time I change it. The specs. look very impressive. Sorry Kevin, I'm still not convinced the LE non-synthetic is superior to most of the other quality synthetics that are available now.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X spray in liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus many other trick modifications
 
Hey guys... never having used LE. . does it have the friction modifier for LS diffetentials. . or does it require adding ???
Gary
 
Formerly I used Torco 75-140 synthetic in my Dana 80, and when I tore it down, everything looked good (running up to 416 hp). I am now using LE607 (510 hp) and feel it is excellent down to somewhere near its lower temp limit (pour point) of about -11F.

The additive for posi comes separately for either lube, and you will probably need 2 bottles. Torco told me they make the lube without it because they can make a better lube that way. I guess the additive is kind of like adding sand to the oil #ad
I'm glad I have the open diff--never found much benefit from clutch diffs so didn't order one. The Detroit Locker is the best anti spin in my experience (it doesn't need posi additive).
 
Willyslover, Evan, I Splooshed the LE607 in at time of Mag-Hytec install (at the recommendation of Mag-Hytec), along with the friction modifier (2 bottles). I was surprised after 6000 hard miles the stuff still looks the same as when I put it in, Red with honey-like consistency and stringiness.
 
By Roy at Hytec's reccomendation, I used LE 607. According to Roy, the 607 is actually superior to the synthetic with regards to wear. As others have mentioned, the only limitation is sub zero climate. I also have the Dana 80 cover, nice unit. Per Roy, I used closer to 3 bottles of additive if I remember. So far so good, and I have towed some good weight. BTW, I'm running their motor oil and their DCI plus diesel additive as well. So far I am very happy with the product line. I like the idea of lubricating the pump - seems it makes up for the difference of inconsistent batches of fuel. Might be good for a slight increase in MPG.

Craig

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2000, 2500,QC,4x4,white,tow,leather,6 spd,4. 10, 4" exhaust - turbo back, K&N, Balls of steel hitch, line-x bedliner, Autometer Ultralite pyro and boost... wouldn't dare add anything to void that good ole DC warranty!
 
I have used Amsoils Series 2000 75W90 for 120K now. Sampled and Changed every 40K. First two samples had high TAN but low iron. Last interval was sampled at 40K and checked out very good. Low TAN, very little iron etc. Left in for another 20K more miles and changed. Oil came out nice and blue like it went in.

Their has been lots of comments about the need for the 75W140 and as I was told by Dana Light Axle division several years ago now... . "That should only be used in warmer climates not the midwest". For most a GOOD 75W50 is more than adequate and gives you good flow when temps get cold.

Joe D... . when we have a normal winter (not last 2) day temps might not get above -11. NVG 5sp summer temps run 150 degrees. In -20 temps it just barely gets to 75 after 50+ miles at interstate speeds. You can imagine what the diffs are like at these temps.

jjw
ND
 
<font color=teal> Evan, I have just become a convert to AmsOil and will be running there Series 2000 75W-90 gear lube in my 80. It is a </font><font color=blue>Cool Blue</font><font color=teal> color.

This will be my third change over, 1st change was done at the dealer where I bought the truck after boiling the gearlube out towing a combined load of 15,000 lbs(running 80 MPH) and I think it was Castrol synthetic. This first change was at 16K. The LSD started acting up popping and such at 42K and I replaced the Castrol oil with Red line synthetic and two bottles of limited slip additive. Now with 86K on the truck it time for another change and it will be AmsOil. </font>
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Dee'sel
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54 LSD 5 speed, K&N Air filter RE0880 & Psychotty,
TST #11 all the way forward, #12 for winter, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket
TST EGT gauge & TST 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Hypo clutch ass.
Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down,
AmsOil 80W-90 in Trans GL-4, Amsoil 15W-40 Oil W/ Bypass system
Lund WInter front, Leer Cab Level Shell,
235/85R16 Goodyears *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 07-17-2000). ]
 
I think the Amsoil is fine but I'm trying LE607 next time. The amsoil doesn't run any cooler than the 85/140 Valvoline I had in before. Last month I put a 45 degree street ell in the fill hole(stock cover)and put in another qt. of amsoil. Now the level is above the tubes and it's a few degrees cooler. I want to compare temp with the LE 607 next. Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!
 
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