Best pilot shaft bushing to go with the new clutch?

[moparguy]

My goal has been to stay just below the power level that would require a clutch upgrade. I've always babied the clutch and 5'th gear to make both live. But Friday, I picked up a Cat 10,000 lb cap fork lift for little brother. My GVCW was about 28K. No problem normally with that weight. But that day I stopped to check out a roadside 1st. gen dually that was for sale. When I got back on the busy two lane highway, I had to get after the old truck a bit to avoid having a dump truck loading on my trailer and at about 45 MPH in 4th, with smoke blowing, I suddenly picked up about 300 RPM instantly, backed out a bit and got back in the fuel but not quite as deep and it hooked back up. So far no more slip. So guess it's time to upgrade both the clutch and the orig. 5th gear at 89,600 miles.



I know Peter can fix me up on the clutch, just wondering what the current thinking is on the pilot bushing, kevlar, bronze, stock?



Hey, since I've gotta relpace the clutch, now I can up the power some more 370's and Pier's little spring kit. Alright.



As an aside, I was running fanless, I really like it while the truck's working/moving, but I may reinstall since I usually like to leave it idling while checking things, fueling, talking, whatever. Now I'm having to check it to make sure I's not overheating. We'll see.

 

[Turbo Thom]

Moparguy:

As Peter told me, don't use the kevlar bushing unless the input shaft has wabbled and hit the sides. If all is OK put it in the glove box for later use. I installed the fe clutch and used the bearing they sent and put the kevlar bushing in a box. And that fe sure puts the power to the ground. I run 370's and an up rated pump and the clutch loves it. I just had to install another transmission and the mechanic pulled the clutch to make sure all was clean and , the clutch was hardly worn at 17,000 miles. I'm probably around 350 HP. You will like the clutch.



. . Preston. .

 

[Sled Puller]

The BEST bearing is offered by www.enterpriseengine.com



It is a sealed roller bearing like the big rigs use. It has been tested on the track and highway to withstand incredible heat and horsepower. You have to bore the flywheel to put one in though.

Probably overkill for most people.



Gene

 

[John]

Roller bearing type pilot bearings are really trick, they also work quite well however, if the lube works its way out of the bearing, kiss your input shaft goodbye!



PS: I've seen first hand the damage done with a sealed roller pilot bearing.



BOTTOM LINE: it's little more than just a roll of the dice.

 

[Sled Puller]

John,

If the lube works off of the open needle bearing from Dodge, it is history too.

I don't know about the kevlar, but the bronze is wearing out from the first minute it is installed, only a matter of time.



They are ALL a roll of the dice!!



A bigger bearing sealed up was my choice to solve a weak point. I think the odds are better with it.





The real bottom line would be don't sit at the long traffic lights with the clutch in.



Gene

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The Kevlar bushing requires boring out the flywheel. Getting this done absolutely centered is the issue. Peter says the bushing works, believe him.



The factory needle bearing works if alignment if perfect--there can be a bad stackup of tolerances because the block plate indexes on dowels in the block, the bellhousing indexes similarly on the block plate, and all three can be machined a little off. It is a good idea, especially if you have had problems that may be alignment, to dial indicate the bellhousing hole for being centered on the crank and not cocked so one side is closer to the block than the other.



The factory bearing does dry out and when it goes it can take out the input shaft and bearing. It may go fast.



Bronze bushings, oilite, are cheap and effective. Chevy used them for 1/2 century. They tolerate misalignment and imperfect surface texture on the input much better. Don't grease it. It wears, butr if you are alert you can feel the difference in disengagement quality, or hear the input rub the front bearing retainer.



They only wear when your foot is on the clutch, because that is the only time the input shaft/disk is at a different rpm from the crankshaft/flywheel.



I used the stock bearing for a few test clutches and it was OK because alignment was OK and I don't ride the clutch. I changed to oilite bronze and it has been fine too. The size is 1" OD, . 75" ID, 1"+ long.

 

[Briar Hopper]

I have the big roller bearing in my flywheel, courtesy of Enterprise Engine. It has lasted for 45,000 miles now. No worries about it.

 

[moparguy]

Thanks guys.

Good info, looks like this issue is like most, lots of pros and cons for the various options.



I haven't had any complaints with the stock bearing... ..... yet. I'm really kinda anal about sitting still with the clutch in. Just ask my wife when she's driving and I'm loading hay. It gets down to , and then I've gotta say something like "just kidding honey", after she dumps me off the back of the trailer with bale of hay in my hands, but usually that only happens about once a day.

 

[radixr]

Stock Bearing

My stock bearing was toast at less than 70,000 miles and I was easy on it. You just never know. I could hear it making noise, though, especially when cold. I wasn't sure that the bad bearing was the cause of the noise until Enterprise Engine changed it and the noise went away.