Best power mod's for towing

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I almost hate to ask this question #ad
. Only because it probably has been answered a million times before. What is the best combination of modifications I can make to my CA '96 2500 5spd w/3. 5's to enhance it's tow ability. It is completely stock except for K&N filter and the PrimeLoc Filter reloc. setup. The problem I have is needing to drop to 3rd when climbing moderate grades, 38 mph!! I tow mostly in the Pac. NW, Idaho, Utah, Nev. , etc. I have read quite a few of the posts on the mod's but am #ad
about which cam plate would be best etc. Also concerned about smog regs. Thanks for the forum #ad
#ad
. Lots of great info.

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1996,2500,CC,SLT,Driftwoodx2,2wd,5spd. ,3. 54,K&N,AirRide,Reese20k,1996 Hitchhiker,36RK 2slide pretty stock, but lookin' for more!

 

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Rick, I towed a 27' 5er to Minden last year and died on every hill and got 10+mpg. I had a #6 TST plate installed centered, and the wastegate blocked. I towed home, never came out of top gear on the hills and only had to keep an eye on the exhaust temp and back out of it now and then. I got 13+mpg coming home.
I have since installed a 16cm housing and the K&N filter. My temps are better and I make 30+lbs of boost under load but I think the Cat will have to go also. I have spent less than $700 on mods and am satisfied with the towing performance. From what I read it looks like we are geared the same. I don't think you have to take a second mortgage to make it run well enough to keep you smiling. Dave

 

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Hi Rick,
I tow a 13,500 pound fifth Alpenlite with two slides. I've had it over the Escalante mountains in Utah and all over the Sierras and Arizona (one with a 24% posted grade) and it has done just fine. The truck will out pull many passenger cars on the grades with the fifth wheel in tow. I just had it over Donner pass to Reno and it pulled at 65 mph in overdrive with plenty left all the way up. The main thing to look for is good brakes. I replaced my front brakes with Performance Friction pads and just added a BD Exhaust Brake. As far as performance options go, you need to let the engine breathe because of the heat that will be generated with an enhanced engine. From the start I would add an ATS pulse manifold. I didn't at first and ended up breaking two ears off of my cylinder head because the exhaust manifold shrunk. You will need boost and pyrometer gages. They are a must when turning up an engine and the pyrometer needs to be watched on the grades especially at high altitude where the air is thin. If you read my signature you will see the changes that I have made and my truck does better than any that I have pulled up against, pulling a trailer or not. Your 96 might require a different plate than mine, I'm not sure about the application with that pump but Mark at TST can sure tell you about that. He helped me out a lot when I was setting this one up. If you have any questions let me know.
Steve




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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake

 

[Archive]

Check out a Banks Stinger-Plus system,you'll get all the power/economy you need in one box that you can install yourself. They're just a few miles from you in Azusa.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 01-15-2001). ]

 

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Concerning Dieselburner's comments on the exhaust brake, I also wanted to install one but was advised by Cummins (Power. Master@Cummins.com) that the diesels in California are not compatible with any exhaust brake on the market because of the EGR required in California. Cummins states that the exhaust brake is incompatible with EGR diesels because the increased exhaust pressure created by the brake opens the EGR valve and provides too much exhaust gas into the intake manifold thereby creating adverse conditions for optimum combustion. Maybe you have removed the EGR valve on your vehicle?

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'97 Ext. Cab 2WD 35K mi,5 Sp Man 4. 10, ISSPRO Pyrometer & Boost

 

[Archive]

That is correct. The first mod that I made was to install the federal intake. The egr is much too restrictive for any performance enhancements. Not sure is the 96 engine has the dreaded egr or not but it has to go in my opinion if you want to have an engine that will last, enhanced or not.

 

[Archive]

One thing that I did was drop the cat and muffler and went with a straight pipe. It made a great difference when pulling my 25' 5er. I did click the AFC wheel 20 clicks toward the engine for some more low end until I get my torque plate in late summer.
Moving the AFC wheel, to my understanding wont help the top end but it does great things for the low end power. I did find it made a difference running empty.

Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by RHARVEY:
One thing that I did was drop the cat and muffler and went with a straight pipe. It made a great difference when pulling my 25' 5er. I did click the AFC wheel 20 clicks toward the engine for some more low end until I get my torque plate in late summer.
Moving the AFC wheel, to my understanding wont help the top end but it does great things for the low end power. I did find it made a difference running empty.
DON'T BUY BANKS way too high priced for what you get. Get a torque plate from TST for almost 1/10 a Banks kit & get the same power.
Rick

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94,4x,#4TST,5spd,4. 10LSD,35"BFG A-T,Lund Flares, A-PIllarGuages,Southbend Ceramic clutch,straight ex. ,RS9000.

 

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Not sure who made the above comment about Banks,but they are showing quite a bit of ignorance. Sure a TST plate(which Banks includes) will cost 1/10 the price of a Banks,but thats because it's only 1/10 of what you get with Banks. That is unless the TST comes with gauges,a larger turbo housing and 4" exhaust system.

 

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A few months back somebody posted that they had a 280hp cam plate, "diamond B"(380 HP) injectors, afc spring kit, governor spring kit, and 16 cm turbo. Said it was the best combo they had yet.
I'll probibally go this route as soon as the $$$ comes through.

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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The first thing I did when the bug bit, was go with the Banks Power Pack. The difference in power was amazing! #ad
As true with most bombers, no matter what you do it's never enough! Next I went with injectors, then the spring kit, the TC and VB followed, and on and on... I think the best value for the dollar is probably the torque plate. You can't go wrong if you can afford the Banks kit, but if your budget won't allow it, then I'd start with the plate and guages. If you start your bombing without the guages, your opening yourself up to catastrophic problems. #ad


"Banshe" Bill

 

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Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I am curious about the difference in the torque plates with regard to the torque/horsepower curve. For instance is the curve different between say a # 5 and a #11. I understand one makes more peak power and torque than the other #ad
, but does the power curve come in sooner on one than the other. Also, is the federal intake best obtained from Cummins and does anyone know the part #. I am impressed with some of the power ratings some of you get outta these engines. I will probably not #ad
#ad
get too radical, but one never knows now does one #ad
#ad
. PS gauges will definately come first(knowledge from big rig days). By the way, who manufactures the best A pillar replacement. Would rather not have an overlay.

 

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Originally posted by RICKC:
I will probably not #ad
#ad
get too radical, #ad

Yuh, right! I seem to remember thinking that.



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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, 16cm, 16%btdc, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

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Yep ... Been there ... Thought That!!!

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'95, 2500, 4X4, ext cab, white, 3. 54 rear end, auto transmission
Griffin Radiator, Banks Power Pak, Kondolay TC, Kondolay VB, 16cm Turbo, 4" exhaust, Horton Fan, Bosch 215, BD Governor Springs, Brite Box, Mag Hytec transmission Pan, aux transmission Cooler, Bully Dog Propane, Wiley Coyote strapped to my grill