Here I am

best way to spend about 3k on parts....

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well THAT warmed it up...now what?

more air = less boost?

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Ok lets get thinking... . I'm finally working steady( I guess) and ready to pick some parts up. I'm going to set a 2. 5k-3k limit.



Goal->130mph in the standing mile.



What I have already purchased.



1) Stan's 4" exhaust

2) rebuilt Jleo's getrag

3) 3. 07 rear (in a week or two)

4) 1999 3" Powerjoke intercooler, pressure tested as of this morning.

5) Snow Performance methanol injector.



I'm limited by the trans obviously and egt's since I will driving a full mile. I don't need to launch hard like 1/4 mile. So slow spool up on a turbo isn't really going to kill me.



So I need opinions of



1) 3k vs. 4k springs. Sounds like 3200 springs will be a better bang for the buck.

2) Head work, fire/oring. Sounds mandatory.

3) p-pump conversion and maybe cam. I already have 2nd gen fuel lines, case cover and the piece behind it (name temporarily escapes me). This will gobble up most of the budget though.

4) cam swap w/o p-pump conversion.

5) best turbo/injectors. If I forgo the p-pump conversion (more then likely) I can get a better turbo. Which I think is more important and a better bang then the p-pump, since I am limited by the trans.



By most of the reading here it looks like I'm shooting for around 350 hp.



Gauges I can figure out and I need an exhaust manifold. Not too hard there. I can't think of anything else at the moment but I am sure I'll have other questions. I know all of these questions have been answered before but I am not dyno'ing or going 1/4 mile.
 
130 mph!! Nice man, just make sure your front wheel bearings are nice and greased :)

The money will go quick that's for sure. The data is all here in the forums, however I think that my only advice would've been to go with 3. 07's which you already have planned :)
 
3. 07 rear.

366 gove spring

Hop up the VE majorly, with the internal mods necessary (cerberusiam and Greenleaf will have to chime in with more details)

Injectors to relieve pressure on said VE

Turbo for more air

Exhaust and BHAF (shy away from the K&N- sometimes is filters, sometimes it doesnt)

transmission upgrades

You should be able to do it for under $3k, esp if you keep an eye out for deals
 
I would think about how to reduce the wind drag. . ie fairings, whatever to make it somewhat aerodynamic. Almost anything you can add to a brick will help.

Get speed rated tires and a highway tread for much less road resistance... you probably already thought about that.

Slotted rotors for the front?? Ya gotta stop all that iron. (Perhaps a drag chute??LOL)

You probably want to work on an air induction system. . (scoop) of some sort, and a turbo with the larger ex housing.

I'm guessing that the stock lift pump will have trouble keeping up at the rpm it will take to get to 130. It's not like a dyno run where you will be up there for scant seconds... . you will have to maintain that rpm for a length of time.

(anybody guesstimate what that rpm would be??



Sounds like a fun project.

Oh... . a radar detector for all those "practise" runs on the tpike. . :-laf:-laf



Jay
 
According to my gear-speed calculator, with 3. 07's and a 238-85/16 tire, and a NV4500 transmission with a . 75 overdrive gear, 135 mph = 3300 rpm. In a standing mile... I would think you don't need a whole ton of power to reach 130 mph. Biggest factor would be the 3400 spring and fuel - I wouldn't think you'd need any engine mods at all save for injectors. It'll be all about reaching and staying at that rpm, which as I understand can be done with a VE.

You'll be pushing big pyro numbers so your water/meth idea will be important, and you'll definitely want a good clutch to handle the torque verses pushing the air out of the way.



Cool goal - let us know what you do!

- M2
 
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New Jersey Turnpike??:-laf:-laf



i-696 and i94 in the detroit area. The speed of traffic is often 90mph.



I've been know to make the grosebeck - southfield run in less then 5 minutes (late morning mind you!), I think the speed-o dipped near 100mph once, 120+ most of the time, not sure, was paying attention to the road and others. :D



Not in the truck tho, something German, AWD with a turbo...



A friend of mine was able to calculate 205mph in his Talon (tire/gear/rpm math) on i-94 one crazy summer night last year.
 
I've found a roll pan for the rear as the the rear bumper is just a parachute. I found a front spoiler about a year or so ago for our trucks. The front grill will need to be completely closed up. I will also have to figure how much space to leave open for the intake.



I'll probably need evans coolant to prevent overheating and a mist bar or cryo2 for the intercooler. I'd like to do a rounded belly pan which would really help. But I am going to concentrate on the motor at the moment. I have the angles from an aero improved second gen. truck (8 degree slant and the last 1. 5 feet is around 12 degree, I need to check) for doing a bed cap. I'll need racers tape to seal up the cab and bed gap.



So I guess I need to concentrate on a decent IP. I haven't looked at IPs for a while but I've seen a few. Any idea on a decent streetable IP?



I also need to figure what parts I need for doing a 3" off my turbo to the ford intercooler and back into the intake. Does "TWORLINE" post here?
 
The VE can make the power easy enough and the rpms are also not a problem. I could run across the 1/4 mile in 4th with 3. 54s and Getrag doing 100 mph. That same rpm would be 130 in 5th. The tough part will be keeping egts down for that long. Without twins it will be tough. Not so sure 350 hp will get you to 130 in a mile. Might need 400 hp.

1. DDP stage 4 injectors or bigger.

2. HTT 62/14 or 64/14 or phat shaft 62 or 64. Nothing bigger or else it won't spin fast enough with only 350 hp.

3. Water injection.

4. I think Opoole ports and o-rings heads reasonably. 60# springs of course.

5. Port the exhaust manifold or get an ATS.

I suppose at or near sea level egts don't climb near as fast as they do here.



Did some calculating; if you could get the truck to 100 in the 1/4 you have less than 27 seconds and 3960 ft to complete the task. More realistic is you have about 23 seconds to gain 30 mph. Good luck!
 
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at over 100mph, your pushing a lot of wind! is it necessary to louver the hood to help get some of the air out. Maybe this will help with flow of air though the innercooler and not so much air being trapped under the hood looking for a way out.
 
Wheel wells are two more parachutes that need to be dealt with. I may be able to vent them out the side panel with a grill. Any ideas on measuring air pressure in the engine compartment.



I have a few ideas on making a rounded bellypan for under the chassis.





Standing mile:Bonneville Utah (1 mile 130 club, 2 mile 150 club, 2 or 3 mile course and a 5 mile course), El Mirage Ca. (1. 3mile), Muroc Ca. (1. 8? mile closed), Goliad Texas, Arnold Neb. The largest course is Black Rock Nevada, its something like 11 miles. That course is usually reserved for the 500+mph runs.
 
man you'll needa clutch for dure . . a south bend con FE would be very good. . I know my stock one slips if I push it too hard . . I haven't installed the clutch yet . . its on the to do list but is a $800-1100 investment.

as for place what about that place in NC? or gerogia? , Maxton?? or something. . a lot closer then the west...

Later

Deo
 
everybody thanks for all the advice so far.....



glhs: do you use the HTB2 64/14 on the street? They say the 62 is a bit more streetable. Which downpipe did you use or did rip's bolt right on.
 
I just logged into the Maxton site. I was going for the 120mph record there on veggie oil to beat Yahoo's failed attempt last year (El Mirage) at setting the first land speed racing record on veggie (just didn't want to tell everyone). It was 96mph and last year it was upped to 120 mph. Well the updated the site. Diesel Power Mag now has the record at 159mph in the standing mile so I'm priced out of that race :(



I'm still picking up my 3. 07's tomorrow up in Boston.
 
next question.....



I know the new 6. 7 has a new bore and stroke, I know the older euro 6. 7 was all stroke but had some gear arrangment on the back end so you couldn't use it in our block. I certainly couldn't afford a custom stroker crank. Can a 6. 7 crank still be used in our 5. 9 block. I just did the math and a 6. 7 crank and a . 020 or . 030 bore would get me into the next sized engine class which only has a 120 mph record. To get into this class I wouldn't be able to run a turbo (which would save on injectors :) ). But could run nitrous and windshield washer fluid. Any takers on this situation?
 
My truck is a daily driver. If your not making at least 375 uncorrected rwhp, I would stick with a 62. I can use the 64 at this elevation, it would certainly work better down there.

Rips 4" downpipe is shaped perfectly but the there is no flange. The pipe you receive will be approx. 8" longer than needed. You buy a flange to match the turbo you are using and after cutting the extra piping out, you weld on the flange. Since I had an HTT turbo, I called HTT and they sold me an HX-40 flange for about $15.
 
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