Better Batteries

[David Pendleton]

I've been doing a lot more camping with my 2010 CTD, and part of that includes a Dometic refrigerator and other 12V accessories.

When I have a hook-up available, I put the truck on a battery tender while I run things off the truck's batteries.

When I don't have a hook-up available, I just make do with the batteries and hope everything works out okay.

What I'm looking for are the closest I can get to a deep cycle battery that will still work in the truck (starting, intake grid, etc.).

Anyone have any recommendations including other things I can do to safely run things off the truck batteries?

Thanks all.

 

[Topzide]

I think you would be best investing in a solar panel setup to help supplement the 12v usage. Batteries are such a variable. I think that with money saved over getting the best possible batteries, a good solar system would help keep them charged and offset the loads. I know this means something else to pack and setup. Just a thought. Enjoy your camping adventures!

 

[AH64ID]

I would do a separate battery bank and not use the trucks batteries.

Optima does make a dual purpose battery but Optima seems to have gone downhill.

 

[kthaxton]

Agreed, I used to have a setup for this in my Ramcharger for multi-day backcountry trips. I had a regular starting battery and a deep cycle. The only things connected to the deep cycle were my cooler an and air compressor.

To separate the batteries, I used an RV switch that was tied into the 12v run circuit with a switch so I could only engage the deep cycle to the charging system when the key was on and when I had flipped the switch. Tying into the 12v run circuit made it so I did not have to remember to disengage the deep cycle so it did not discharge the starting battery when the engine was off.

 

[Ozymandias]

Today go with Lithium for a Camper. They are so cheap now that it is a real no brainer. Check Amazon for the latest prices.

 

[David Pendleton]

Agreed, I used to have a setup for this in my Ramcharger for multi-day backcountry trips. I had a regular starting battery and a deep cycle. The only things connected to the deep cycle were my cooler an and air compressor.

To separate the batteries, I used an RV switch that was tied into the 12v run circuit with a switch so I could only engage the deep cycle to the charging system when the key was on and when I had flipped the switch. Tying into the 12v run circuit made it so I did not have to remember to disengage the deep cycle so it did not discharge the starting battery when the engine was off.

It looks like if I had a split charging system, it would do this automatically. I think I will look into that.

Do you know if one battery is enough to start a 6.7L, even in the winter?

 

[kthaxton]

While I've not tried, I seriously doubt it.

A third battery might have to be mounted elsewhere if you can't find a spot under the hood.

In my RC, I was able to modify the tray and mount two Optimas next to each other 90º from the original battery postion.

 

[David Pendleton]

Today go with Lithium for a Camper. They are so cheap now that it is a real no brainer. Check Amazon for the latest prices.

Lithium batteries in the engine bay are a no-no.

 

[slowmover]

Lithium flat bad idea.

Battery bank in bed would work with alternator upgrade. See marine installations.

What you really want is a Low Voltage Cut-off switch

 

[Topzide]

With a separate battery bank, you can make a simple way to charge them and keep them separate from truck batteries. You would use a solenoid that is triggered when truck is running. That way they charge when truck running and you don't have to remember to switch them on! I'd make a tray to mount on frame under the bed for extra battery/s. I would still have some sort of solar charging to help replenish charge on camper batteries without having to run truck to just charge batteries! Great project and get more outdoors time to boot!

 

[SSage]

If you use it often I would add a couple GC2 6 volts in the bed, thats what I use in my boondocking rig. A true deep cell house bank will out last starting batteries by far. And you always want your starting batteries protected from low voltage. The starting batteries could be replaced with some dual purpose AGM's, but you really need a house bank.

You can get deep cell 12 volts, but they are much more costly. Trojan makes flooded deep cell group 31's. I would use a smart and adjustable 12 volt battery charger from Renology, Sterling, Victronics ect. That way the house batteries get fully charged and will last longer than when using a simple battery isolator. A good 30 to 40 amp DC charger on two 6 volt AGM batteries would be ideal. Like some nice Lifeline, Trojan, Deka deep cell AGM's. Or at least some cheap Group 31 Deka AGM dual purpose batteries from Sam's Club, about $189 per right now. The Duracell Platinum AGM batteries are "Deka" and the most budget friendly option I've found besides the regular golf cart GC2 wet/flooded batteries. In my toy hauler I just use the golf cart 6 volts, cheap and tough. You just need to keep the water levels up, they do need maintenance occasionally.

 

[Ozymandias]

200Ah Lifeline costs 650$ and will last if lucky a thousand cycles.
100Ah Renogy* Lifepo4 costs 520$ and will last easily eight thousand cycles.
Now give me a reason why someone should spend more to get less and buy an outdated technology.
*100Ah are available for 300$ from non-brand sellers.

 

[Ozymandias]

Lithium flat bad idea.

Battery bank in bed would work with alternator upgrade. See marine installations.

What you really want is a Low Voltage Cut-off switch

if you say so.