BFG AT KO's 315/75R/16's & Fender Flares

[KEENO]

Hey Gang!

I'm celebrating a bit tonight and wanted to share my accomplishment & excitement w/ my brothers.

I have just completed a very long (but rewarding) installation of the Bushwacker "Cut Out" Fender Flares on my 92' W-250 to have clearance for some spiffy new BFG 315/75R/16 KO's. I really didn't anticipate this installation taking the 40 hours that I now have invested in it, but they are on and if I can boast a bit... They Look TOUGH!

I only have the Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift in my truck and knew I wouldn't have clearence to the front fender lip (my old 305/70R/16's use to touch before I trimmed the lip). It would of probably been easier just to increase the lift of the truck but I didn't want to deal w/ the "harsh" ride or increased height of a 4" lift. It's already challenging enough getting my kayaks on the rack solo!

These "Cut Out" Flares remove 4. 75" of fender from the frt. wheel opening lip & 3. 0" from the rear lip. The inner fener well must then be reshaped/modified/re-engineered/tweaked/twisted and re-attached to the outer and various other mounting points. This is where the installation 'time' came in, we even broke out the mig welder to insure a robust modification. The rear flares remove approx. 3" each from the front & rear lips of the bedside.

I plan on having the rockers "Rhino Lined" (up to the beltline) in the next few weeks to accent the Flares and might finally take a few . jpeg pictures of my truck for viewing. I'm really pleased w/ the look of the flares and larger wheels/tires, I feel it has a completely 'balanced' & aggressive look to it!

I hope to have a few pic's soon... .

Keeno

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1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, 12cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified Banks exhaust/Walker muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, South Bend Clutch, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift & Bushwacker 'cut out' Flares to clear 315/75R/16 BFG AT KO's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil, Rhino liner, Fully Chrominated Aluminum Aftermarket Accessory T-handle Shift Knob

 

[F Simkowski (In Memory)]

Outstanding KEENO! Post the pics when you get them.
I've noticed the "South Bend clutch" in your signature. Looks like a bulletproof setup... . any comments on the clutch and installation for our First Gen. brothers?
Frank


[This message has been edited by Frank Simkowski (edited 04-18-2001). ]

 

[KEENO]

I forgot to Thank "Thunderrolls" for all of the advice & encouragement he provided via email during my purchase of the BFG's!

Hey Old School!

True story! I installed the Southbend Clutch while in there doing the rear main seal upon my return from New Zealand.

I installed the exact clutch combo that "Bushwakr's" brother in Canada installed and posted about a few months back. This clutch utizes the Luk pressure plate, a Valeo Clutch disk and a specialized self-centering throw out bearing. The clutch in many ways out performs the awesome Sachs clutch that was OEM w/ our trucks. These areas would be driveability, pedal feel & pressure and no more reverse driveline chatter while backing up. It also holds well (so slipping)with my power level, LSD & 12" wide tires at stop lights (I can see you cringing). Woody mentioned that their opinion was that the original Sachs were actually too much clutch for our application (I there is such a thing... I was willing to experiment)

This unit has one annoying drawback however and it was discussed in detail in "Bushwakr's" posting. At Idle with the clutch disengaged or transmission in neutral the clutch disk springs rattles like a "spoon in a garbage disposal"! I don't enjoy this sound but will probably live with it because I don't want to go back in there for a while. Bushwakr's brother had this exact same experience and removed his and sent it back.

Please understand, this is not their performance 'ceramic' clutch that the P7100 boys are installing. If I had to do it over again I would opt for their Sachs derived unit for $100 more ($550. 00 or $575. 00 approx. ) I enjoy everything else about this clutch except for the neutral rattle and the price was right @ the time ($450. 00 delivered w/ kevlar pilot bushing).

If you're thinking of a Southbend Clutch - "GO Sachs" unit and spend the extra $$$. The boys @ Southbend were a complete pleasure to work with though & I would recommend their products & services.

Keeno's clutch saga...

 

[boatpuller]

They look awesome, are the flares steel or plastic? Does Bushwacker have a web site, where did you purchase them? Also how much did you trim front fenders when you had the 305's I just put them on my truck with the 2 1/2" Skyjacker lift and was thinking about just trimming the plastic not the whole fender.
Thanks in advance,
Caleb

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1993 LE W250 4x4 CC,Auto,3. 5's,LS. . Diamondplate,PowerWagon injectors,K&N,Egt,Boost,trans temp VDO Vision series, BD 3 1/2" Exhaust, 16cm housing,Mag Hytec Diff+ Trans pans,Transgo TFOD shift kit,Roadmaster Active Suspension.

Caleb Reese (per forum guidelines)

 

[KEENO]

Hey Caleb!

The Bushwacker Flares are made of ABS plastic, I believe. They can be found on the web @ www.bushwacker.com

I was running the Goodyear MT's 305/70R/16's and they used to contact at the lower edge of the front wheel well opening. This condition was initially fixed by using an 'Air Nibbler' and removing the fender flange (where the OEM flares attach) and radiusing the the lowest point (of the wheel frt. opening)where it transitions into the flange. I would only contact during off road conditions, usually while steering.

If you were to trim the fender flange w/ the OEM flares you would lose your lowest attachment point of the flare would also have to trimmed to match.

I wouldn't recommend the Bushwacker "cut out" flares for a "pristine" First Generation, it's just too abusive to cut into these beautiful trucks. It brought tears to my eyes to be cutting and welding on my truck and it started life as a farm truck. The old girl is looking better these days but it hasn't been w/o some hard work.

BTW, if anyone is interested in some OEM "LE" flares I have some listed in the classifieds now because I went the cut-out route instead of factory.