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BHAF and HX-40.....

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Where and how much for a BHAF, and a foam sock? I work in the mountains and it snows a bit in the winter. not a lot but is gets to 0-15 degrees at night (thats cold for southern cal. ) Will it hurt my truck having one of these things?





I been told that HX-40 huff kind easy. I romp my truck a bit, and I am worried about this mod. Up until 2 months ago, all I ever knew was Banks. Then I find TST, now I am here and saved. LMAO. I am trying to set a game plan on bombin my truck. Just tell me what you think about the hx-40.



Chris
 
I bought my HX-40's (on my second) from Diesel Dynamics, and outside of the first one I bought, they told me they have never seen an UNMODIFIED HX-40 fail. I push mine to 40-45 psi day in and day out without a problem. Do a search on Majestic or look in the "Competition Forum" at the "Huffed turbo hall of fame" to get a feel for this, as it seems that mostly turbos that have been modified/machined/clipped in some way are the ones that have failed. But at this point in time their are more options open to us to combat high EGT's and maintain decently fast spool-up times. Do a search on kwikspool, B-1 Bomber, Piers and twin turbo to see the current crop of after market turbos out there. Your own budget and performance goals will help guide the spending (I mean BOMBing ;) ).
 
I run the BHAF in the winter in Alaska, its butt cold and snows some too. No problems.



As for the turbo... I have an piers HX35, its nice but I am at the high end of its efficiency. Thinking about his 40 now.
 
Chris:



I paid $49. 00 for a BHAF at NAPA.



I have a "stock" HX-40 which was on my truck for just

a short time. As Kurt Voss already said that is probably

the best way to have an HX-40. As he also said, the

TDR website is full of stories of members who have

blown the HX-40's up, one way or another. With that

in mind, I have sent mine off to Piers Harry to have him

do his new "modifications" which include modifying the

oil galleries amongst other things. (See his entry in

the Products&Accessories Section under "Piers HX-40").

With what Kurt has said, I will add that a "safe" limit

on the boost seems to be around 40lbs. (although I

realize many run alot more than that. )



Like you, I want my "mods" to last!! And like you "I

romp my truck too!" The HX-40's aren't cheap that's

for sure. Piers just got done doing research with

Holset on why the HX-40's fail. This research has

led to his new "modifications" on the turbo. I feel

that with Piers' work, my HX-40 will have the best

chance for a long life of service on my truck.



I will keep you posted.
 
Boy, some of those NAPA stores are really reaming you folks, I paid $32for the 2790 at the local NAPA truck center . I ought to buy a few extra's and resell them.
 
Chris, I purchased my HX40 from Auto Wurks Diesel http://www.autowurksdiesel.com/ . Mine has been since late January of '01 with no problems to date. I romp the truck quite a bit and also see 45 psi's of boost whenever I want, though I usually keep it to 40 psi's as I know I'm pushing the envelope with the headgasket at 45 psi's.



Can't comment on the BHAF as I'm using the K+N.



Scott W.
 
What have you guys been using for a "sock" on the BHAF? I just picked one up today and would like to put a some sort of prefiltering media on it if I could find something that would fit and look good. Has anyone run across a BHAF that has the metal webbing on the inside also? Looks like if the filter got wet paper could get sucked right through the turbo.



Does the hose fit snug enough on the filter or are you guys doing something else to make sure everything is "air tight"?



Sorry for all the questions, just want to get it right the first time. :cool:
 
I had some extra 4" exhaust pipe so I cut a small section and fit it between the hose and filter. I clamped everything with hose clamps. I am not using a prefilter; I haven't seen any signs of that area getting wet. Back in the summer I placed thermocouples in various locations to monitor the temperature of the air entering the filter. On average the air was 10-20º F then ambient depending on speed. When sitting at traffic lights the temp would level off around 100. I also noticed a 5º F temperature drop if the gasket is removed from the cowl. Even without the gasket, water did not enter the engine compartment but one side effect was that the vent pulled in the hot air which dumped it into the cabin. Not a big deal in the winter time but during the summer it was hot.



I still have some excess pipe if you need any,



Hope this helps



Bob
 
BHAF

jman, the filter will fit directly into the end of the airhose. you can use the OEM clamp to clamp it and make it airtight. i used some 6" orthopaedic stockinette to make a "redneck sucker sock"--see my earlier post for link to pic of mine in my readers rig pix.
 
jman

I was also concerned about the filter getting wet and sucked into the the engine. A cummins dealer said it could cost up to $3000 to fix. So They hooked me up with a 8" diameter BHAF with the filter media made of fiber glass which wont collapse and get sucked in the engine. Still a ton of filter area along with a piece of mind. Part# ah19002 (fleetguard) and b085046 (donaldson). Be careful on price I found them from $86 to $45.

Paul
 
What does BHAF stand for? Big Herking Air Filter? Why use a system like in the picture? Any advantages over a Pshchotty type setup?

It seems that you would suck in hot engine compartment air as shown.

Also, not to open the old debate about K&N filters, but is this another reason for the setup?
 
BHAF

havin... ..... the BHAF is the BIG HONKIN' AIR FILTER . also known as the "moparguy" filter. advantages over the 'scotty? 1. cheaper. 2. no holes to cut in the truck. and yes, it does take in air from the engine compartment. another member just did a temp check on the surface of his BHAF under operation. the air entering the BHAF was about 10* higher than the ambient temp. the BHAF will allow much more air flow, and most report a drop in EGT with the BHAF.
 
Don't want to get into a pi****** contest here..... But Kwikkurt has done alot of research on this and his data shows a big difference in turbine IAT when using a filter that draws from the underside of the hood. Personally I have a BHAF but I am looking for a way to use a AFE meg-cannon and get outside air (trying not to cut hole in firewall).



You might drop Kurt an email or give him a call I am sure he would be happy to share his thoughts with you.
 
IAT

no urinating contest here. i read kurts post too about the difference in EGT between the BHAF and a cool air system. i'm not ready to start cutting up my truck. someone will come up with a system to draw cool air. wasn't there a device shown in the last TDR mag for this?? until something else comes along, i'm going to use my BHAF rather than the stock air box with a stock filter. i don't want to get a K 'n n debate going. i've read all the stuff on it, and i personally won't use one in the stock box. with a stock truck, i'm happy for now with the BHAF + sock.
 
redneckdr,



I am with you on the stock box vs. a BHAF, RE-0880, etc. Also like you I am in search of a system that will allow me to use outside air without cutting into the firewall. Although I must admit that I don't have a solution as of yet. I may have some ideas that would use an AFE filter, outside air, + cut down on cab noise, but it still requires cutting through the firewall:(.
 
air

jetpilot, i, too would like to feed the ctd cooler air. a ram system of some sort might help, too. did you see the system in the last TDR mag? don't have mine here at the office, but the setup had an air pipe constructed which mounted inside the fender well, and fed into the engine compartment to feed the air intake. it drew its air from the fenderwell, i think. the impression i got is that the folks making it plan to have it marketed in the not too distant future.
 
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