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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bigger rear wheel brake cylinders?

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I heard from a co-worker who also has a 2nd Gen Cummins Dodge that there is an upgrade one can do to help with the poor braking of these trucks. He mentioned about "bigger wheel cylinders" in the rear that dramatically help the rear brakes do some more of the braking. Anyone have any more info on this?



Thanks
 
If your truck has the load sensing valve on the rear, get you a hose for the truck that doesn't have it and replace it, doing away with the valve.



I have been told that there is a GM wheel cylinder that is bigger and will work. I don't have any numbers or application. Search.
 
I replaced the rear wheel cylinders with 1 ton chevy. some improvement. I have also read you do not need to remove the load sensor but disconnect its arm and tie it in the up position. I may be doing that soon with my truck and my boys. I pull a 5er and with the air bags it seems it doesn't let the rear load sensor do its thing. found I believe only on the 4x4.
 
It's far, far easier to simply disconnect the arm and zip-tie it in position so the valve puts more hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. You may have to play with different positions where you secure the arm--with some trucks with the valve wide open it puts too much bias to the rear, and then your rear wheel antilock cuts in, actually reducing your total braking ability. This usually happens only with empty trucks though, because when you put a load on the truck the rear tires get traction and the antilock won't cut in.

The wheel cylinders are a great upgrade and also very simple. You want to get the ones that are intended for mid-1990's GM 1 ton dually trucks. The NAPA part number is 37337.
 
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I recently put the 1 ton GMC cyls on my truck. There's a definite difference so much so that the rear anti-lock seems to work way too easily and actually reduces stopping efficiency = increases stopping distance. I need to "tweak" that load sensor valve. I've always wondered about the effectiveness of the RWAL... .
 
You guys talk about this "load sensor valve". Where is it & what does it look like? I swapped out my wheel cylinders a few years ago & really never noticed much of a difference... .
 
There's a proportioning valve on the axle with a rod that goes from the rear axle to frame or body like a skinny track bar. Some years have one and some don't. My Caravan has one.
 
More pressure to the rears will only improve braking on trucks that have more than empty weight on the rears most of the time
 
You guys who have done the cylinder upgrade, how does the truck handle when driving empty? I picked up the recommended cylinders from NAPA a few years ago but have not got around to installing them. My only concern is most of the time I'm driving around empty and I worry about wheels locking up.
 
I like mine. Just normal driving they don't lock up, however if you really need to stop, they will, even with a heavy load.



The Dodge uses a 1 inch piston, the 2500 Chevy 1 1/16, Dodge W/D 350 dually 1 1/8 and the 3500 Chevy 1 3/16. I used the 1 1/8 Dodge.



Nick
 
I run empty all the time truck stops waaaaay better with the upgrade, keep the rears adjusted up right and it stops right now with no nose dive.
 
I don't have any experience with the earlier Ram trucks with drum rear brakes or with retrofitted GM rear brake cylinders but I can tell anyone that if you can find a complete rear end assembly out of a 2001. 5 or 2002 Ram 2500 or 3500 (depending on which truck you have) the rear disc brake set up is great and requires no frequent brake adjustments.
 
I saw minimal improvement with the larger wheel cylinders. Since my camper's on all the time,I did the Dodge TSB which supply's a bypass hose. Moderate improvement.



Next was the EGR rear disc conversion,which left me with huge hole in my wallet and a lousy parking brake.



The braking breakthrough was a Pacbrake. I was able to use one because of the DTT auto and Smart Controller.



Lots of bucks for lousy brakes out of the factory.
 
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