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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bigger tires

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I have a 2000 quad cab 4x4 with 4:10 gears. I don't tow anymore and would like to go to 3:54 gears or larger tires which ever is cheaper. How much above the stock 265s can I go without a lift kit.
 
You can run 315's on stock wheels with no lift. I ran my truck like that for a couple months before I installed the 2" leveling kit. I like the way the leveling kit looks, but it's not necessary to fit the tires.

The main reason I went to 315's was to drop the cruising rpm a little and help mileage. I'm pretty sure that any mileage gain from the tires was counterbalanced by the taller stance in front pushing more air. If I towed more, I would use 315's with no leveling kit. With stock wheels, the tires will rub the lower control arm when you steer to full lock.

Taller tires will be much cheaper than changing gears. However, you could probably find someone who wants to trade gears (swap whole axles) such as someone with the same year truck with an automatic who wants to tow or use 37-38" tires.
 
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315's will fit on stock wheels BUT will rub the lower track bar heavily making sharp turns. 295/75R-16 are about as big as you can go with no lift on stock wheels. Even they will rub the lower track bars a little on very sharp turns but not nearly as much as 315's.
 
I have owned three second gen trucks and I am in the process of getting my forth. The absolutely best move I made on all my diesel trucks was the 315 tires. Better driving, shifting, and most of all looks.



Dave
 
Toyo M-55

My tire of choice on the '99 was the Toyo M-55 285-75-16's. They were E rated,33. 3" tall and took next to no weight to balance. Zero rub anywhere.
 
If your picky about how your truck handles and the ride quality you may dislike going to big rubber. I used ceramic beads in my 275 BFG's to balance them because the balancing machines didn't work well on the BFG's larger than 265. I hated the front end shimmy at speed caused by the larger tires. Significantly larger tires also over work the brakes, put more stress on the already weak steering setup, and stress the failure prone wheel bearings. I only run 265's with my 3. 54's and I've still had to spend $5K on my front end to make it rock solid.
 
You might like 255-85R16s. The 85 profile is somewhat tall and narrow, but the 255-85 worked well for me for milage, and I have 3. 54 gears and no lift. Any taller tire should certainly get you noticeably better mileage with your 4. 10s.

I now have 285-75R16s on my truck. They're the same height as the 255-85s, just wider. They rub when I turn the steering wheel all the way, but just barely. I strongly prefer the 85 profile to the 75, but I couldn't find any of the 255-85s this time.

Mike
 
If cost isn't an issue, you might try a size larger rim and next size taller (not wider) tire. I had LT265x70R17s stock and went to LT275x70R18s (same size as a Ford Super Duty Harley Edition) and gained 1/2 to 1 MPG doing it, with no negatives, and it looks pretty good, see photo gallery for more pics.

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This on a 2005. By upping the rim size and keeping the 70% profile, you don't get a reqally wide tire that has multiple issues (shimmy, rubbing, etc. ) and is deleterious to your fuel economy due to rolling resistance. I still have the 17 inch stock rims with the still over 50% tread on them, barn kept.
 
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If your picky about how your truck handles and the ride quality you may dislike going to big rubber. I used ceramic beads in my 275 BFG's to balance them because the balancing machines didn't work well on the BFG's larger than 265. I hated the front end shimmy at speed caused by the larger tires. Significantly larger tires also over work the brakes, put more stress on the already weak steering setup, and stress the failure prone wheel bearings. I only run 265's with my 3. 54's and I've still had to spend $5K on my front end to make it rock solid.
I had vibration with my '99 that began and ended with the mounting,then dismounting of 285-70-16 BFG KO's. One tire took 10 oz. of weight. I switched to Toyo products and all vibes were instantly gone.
 
I also like the less bloated look of taller wheels to go with taller tires. I don't like my tires to look like inner tubes mounted on under sized wheels. If I went with tall tires I'd want 18's or 20's. Less bloated rubber also means better handling and room for bigger brakes to make up for the loss of leverage caused by installing taller tires.

I've stuck with my forged 16" Weld wheels because forged 20's run around $2k. Then add $2K for a big brake kit to stop the 20's.
 
A lot of you guys seem to be missing the point--he's clearly trying to increase his milage as cheaply as possible. Why dump $1500 to $2k into a set of nice forged aluminum wheels along with a set of matching rubber that's probably going to run an additional grand?

The cheapest way to get taller than stock tires is the 255-85/R16 tires.

Mike
 
I put 285's on mine with 0" offset rims and they will touch the inner fender when backing up and the wheel turned all the way to one side, Brigestone Duelers with Centerline rims, 5 tires and 4 rims, 32 lug nuts for less than a grand.
 
A lot of you guys seem to be missing the point--he's clearly trying to increase his milage as cheaply as possible. Why dump $1500 to $2k into a set of nice forged aluminum wheels along with a set of matching rubber that's probably going to run an additional grand?



The cheapest way to get taller than stock tires is the 255-85/R16 tires.



Mike



What's so wrong with "Option C?" I think he's smart enough to figure out new tires alone are usually cheaper than new tires and wheels. BTW, the MBs were cast, and I got the whole set for about $1500 tires and wheels in late 05. Besides, the absolute cheapest route isn't necessarily the best. Since new tires and rims might be less expensive and less labor than a gear swap, and better ride than just bigger tires, it's an OPTION for the OP. Nothin' wrong with OPTIONS.
 
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