Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) billet shafts or no billet shafts

[OaborbaG]

I'm going to order my transmission next week, i have a 4wd, which shafts are more likely to break, and is it worth upgrading, i'm most likely going to add dd3's and an hx40type turbo nothing more for a long time, would it be worth upgrading these, not like it matters but i could launch at 35psi with my stock transmission before it took a crap, and it launched crazy, broke loose all 4's sometimes, but is it worth it or no... because i really don't have quite that much money but just wanting your . 02

 

[GIT-R-DONE]

I would get it if it was affordable. That way at least you wont have to worry about replacing them at a later time again, probably when you don't have the cash. But if you go easy on the go pedal you wont have to worry about it, and we know thats not gonna happen



Don

 

[OaborbaG]

I think i'm gonna just talk to suncoast and see what they say, and see what htey say about the big difference between their single disc tc and the triple anyways sleep time

 

[Snow man]

Most trans builders will not warranty stock shafts for a performance application. Better check before you get stockers,if your going to continue doing 4wd launches id say there cheap insurance.

 

[2ndgen2500]

GET THE BILLET SHAFTS!!!! at leasti would get the input and output. talk to bill though. he convinced me

 

[csutton7]

35psi launches--if you continue this with stock shafts in the new transmission you will be pulling it back out to repair---be honest with the transmission guy who's providing your transmission--that way they can get you the best setup---see my sig to see who I recommend... chris

 

[thejeepdude]

I am in the same scenario as you... I don't plan HUGE power upgrades (no twins anytime soon) but I want something that will last, that's why I'm ordering my DTT with a billet input shaft. I don't feel the output shaft is neccessary, and if it does break, it's a LOT easier to fix than the input shaft. You don't even have to pull the transmission from the truck...

 

[OaborbaG]

which is easier to break? looks like i will get the input, but the output?? sounds like its easier to change, i see that they are like 600 each, no way i can afford both, unless i want my truck to sit for about 3 months, which means no mode of transportation for me, but i'll get the input

 

[csutton7]

the output is easier to change out--remove the overdrive unit and take it to a transmission shop and have them switch the shaft out for you--ask about a cryo'd shaft it's another option--that's what I have, but not for much longer-chris

 

[OaborbaG]

where could i go and have that done at? i've heard about that before i live in central california, transmission shops wel good ones are hard to come by around here all out to make you waste money and not do much work

 

[JR2]

I was talked out of the billet shafts by my transmission man. He said that if I was not drag racing, running a lock up switch or pulling huge loads that it was not necesary. He would make no guarentees that I would not break the stocker, just said that I probably did not need it. Spent the $$ on some other goodies for the transmission. .

 

[thejeepdude]

Hey JR2, I noticed in your pics you relocated your lift pump rather than adding a seperate pusher. I will soon have almost the same bombs as you and was wondering if that configuration would be adequate. What the lowest your fuel PSI will drop when you hammer it? Do you feel like your VP44 is getting enough fuel?



And to keep this on topic... do you really have no fear of breaking your input shaft with your HP range? I'm having the full DTT treatment soon and one of the reasons I want it is to be able to shift locked. I also know I won't be able to have all that power at my disposal and not try a few 4x4 high PSI launches.

 

[JR2]

Well I have had this power on just a DTT TC/VB for about 2 years. I have done many burn outs and such and have had no problems. I don't want to shift locked up as I think this is hard on your transmission (I recently had an experience with a truck that has an ATS transmission in it and I did not like the way it shifted at all, but that is a different story). My goal for this upgrade of my already upgraded transmission was to make it more reliable and make it last the way I drive now. I have a baby on the way and will have little time to mess with the truck for a while. .





As for my FP with the relocated lift pump/bigger lines. With the box on 5x5 and the peddle to the floor my low press dummy light (set at 6 psi) will blink a couple of times, usually at shift points and then hold 8-9 psi. That is good enough for me. If you go back and find the "pumps, lines and whatnot" post from about 3 years ago you can read about the return line flow measurements that where done and the conclusions that where made. Basically any thing over over 5 psi is fine. I am still planning on running an aftermarket pump one day. Probably a PE4200 or maybe a FASS, but for now everything is fine.

 

[OaborbaG]

i'm ordering my transmission monday, with the billet input and hub, and i'm gona see what they say about the output shaft maybe they can cryo it, i don't think i'm gonna get the lockup controller tho, cause i don't have an exhaust brake, or even pull that often, just going to drag a little and pull and the truck pulls, but i can't wait until i get it in

 

[OaborbaG]

ordered it!!!

well just ordered my transmission from ats, not suncoast like i was originally going ot do, with the billet input and hub i guess ats doesn't offer a billet output yet, he said to call back in a couple of weeks o ya, i talked to matt good customer service i might add, i can't wait I basically ordered the stage V then minus the lockup controller would that make it a stage IV 1/2 or something haha anyways can't wait

 

[raf2000]

I am in the process of pulling my trans due to an input shaft failure on an ATS stage 4 w/lockup. You don't have to do 4WD burn outs or even have 400 hp to wring them off! I am now going with the billet shaft and basket. Prayin nothing else got crunched. BTW, got the truck in the air after T-REX suspension upgrade. Also added bigger LTX Michelin's. That stock shaft is no match for the potential (and sudden) torque differential that can occur between the rear tires and the back of the Cummins crankshaft. Shears that shaft right off. Don't think the next failure would occur at the output shaft after a billet input and basket install. I believe that something else would fail (or clutch packs slip) before you could twist the rear off, IMO. SURE wish I had done it 2 years ago when I got the transmission.



Local trans guy says that there would be a sprague clutch that would let loose next.

 

[OTRPU]

Pay me now, or pay me later...

Don't even know if ATS had the solid billet shafts available when I got my transmission beefed up there, but I'd get them while they're doing the install. I didn't then, but I did a month ago. By the numbers I was less than a month out of labor warranty. I think it's probably cheaper to do it now rather than later. Or maybe you'll have better luck.

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Cheers,

Steve J

 

[OPoole]

big power or not i would go with the billet input. i just had a guy in sat. from 4 hours away with DD1 and a EZ i adjusted the bands take it for a test drive... and 25miles later the input HUB cracked causeing the shaft to strip out... go billet ... go Bill K

 

[Mad Bomber]

transmission

Pay now or you'll really pay later