BioDiesel in a 6.7

[jkern]

Looking for the general experiences of running Bio in the 6.7's. Seems that the biggest concerns are the EGR and the DPF, which i no longer worry about. Other than paying attention to fuel filter changes, any problems with injector pumps or injectors, etc.?

 

[Jim W]

I myself like to run straight #2 diesel fuel as this has the most energy content when compared to either gasoline or Bio-diesel fuel.#2 Diesel fuel has for 1 gallon of fuel 113% of the energy as one gallon of gasoline has and B100 bio-diesel has 93% of the energy. B20 bio-diesel has 109% of the energy content compared to gasoline.

Now the Cummins engines are rated for B5 for all models of the 6.7L from 07.5 thru 2012. The 2013.5 and up are rated for B20 bio-fuel.

Jim W.

 

[Doubleclutch]

Jim- Is the B-20 more or less expensive than the #2?

 

[Bob4x4]

The b20 requires shorter service intervals-should tell you all you need to know lol

 

[Doubleclutch]

Thanks Bob- Wasn't planning on going there, but just wondered if there was a surcharge for being "green".

 

[Jim W]

Jim- Is the B-20 more or less expensive than the #2?

I have found that the cost difference is no different between straight #2 diesel and Bio-fuel. The fuel stations just charge the same depending on the state that they are in. Such as MN which has mandated bio-fuel to be sold the cost where the same has in SD and ND when I drove thru those states.

Here in IL the state government provides a cost savings to the refinery if it uses Bio-fuel in the mix. So the station I use tends to mix-11% Bio fuel with the #2 diesel to get the cost savings but the cost savings is not passed on to the end user. I asked the tanker driver if they were using Bio-fuel last year; that is were I found out about the mix ratio. He also stated this was used from April to late Oct than straight #2 diesel fuel with anti-gelling agents for winter fuel.

Bio-fuel gels too easy when the temps drop; so unless you live in a real warm climate you should not have any Bio-fuel in the winter months.

Jim W.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

I tried running a commercial grade B-100 in my pulling tractor.. It was down on power, did not have the snap of #2 but worst of all the tractor got a algae contamination.. Hell to fix, the sludge in the tank looked just like Permatex Aviation sealer. And was VERY hard to clean out of the system.

 

[Tuesdak]

I tried running a commercial grade B-100 in my pulling tractor.. It was down on power, did not have the snap of #2 but worst of all the tractor got a algae contamination.. Hell to fix, the sludge in the tank looked just like Permatex Aviation sealer. And was VERY hard to clean out of the system.

Bio is hygroscopic like brake fluid making bugs in the fuel hard to get under control. You need to run a biocide that mixes with the fuel as the old school of thought of the biocides that fall to the bottom of the tank to treat the water and infection there simply don't work when more water is suspended in the fuel. (vs. max suspended water content the old non sulfur reduced diesel fuel) The water in fuel with ULSD #2 and any biodiesel make biocide more important than ever to run.

A good fuel water separator (I was using a CAT filter/separator setup that had my back when I got hit with bugs) will save your injection system should you get wet fuel or a big infection making it's own water from the fuel. The vehicle with the worthless factory filter had to have the Injection Pump and injectors replaced when the bad fuel hit.