2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bleeding Brakes

[drrhoades]

I am going to change the calipers on the front of the truck. Can someone tell me exactly how to bleed the system after the new calipers are on.



1. Do I have to have the truck running to pump the pedal?

2. Or can I just fill the calipers and crack them and pour brake fluid into the reseivour and pump the pedal with the truck off.

3. Any other tips and or suggestions would be greatly apprecieated.





Thanks for your replies, I would look in the Service Manual but it is buried in about 50 moving boxes at work.



Doug

 

[Steve Campbell]

DH....

Napa (or any other auto parts store) has a device that slips over the bleed screw and has an internal one way check valve. It allows you to bleed your brakes without getting any air in the system and with out having to have another person to open and close the bleed screw at each cyle of the brake pedal. They are not very expensive and well worth the money.



This would be a good time to bleed the entire system and replace all of the old fluid with new. I would get the new calipers "close" to being filled and then go back to the right rear and bleed it until fresh fluid comes out... . next the left rear... right front... . and lastly the left front. You will be glad you did down the line.

 

[drrhoades]

how much DOT 3 does the whole system take should i start with the master cylinder then the what right rear, left rear, right front, left front. this does have RWAL does that matter.

 

[T-Bone]

Hi Doug,



To bleed the system, I used a mityvac from Harbor Freight. There is also a mityvac with gauge model for a few more dollars that has a gauge. The mityvacs are on sale from time to time and I got the model with the gauge for about the price of the model with out the gauge.



The hoses that come with the mityvac are not the most flexible. To help here I bought two hoses from Speed Bleeder (three feet each). They make things much easier to use.



T-Bone

 

[B.G. Smith]

Originally posted by drhoades





"1. Do I have to have the truck running to pump the pedal?

2. Or can I just fill the calipers and crack them and pour brake fluid into the reseivour and pump the pedal with the truck off.

3. Any other tips and or suggestions would be greatly apprecieated. "------------------------------------------------------------------ If you want to keep it simple, replace the calipers making sure not to allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid, with master cyl. full, open bleeder screws on both calipers, when fluid appears at bleeder, close off. Start engine and lightly pump pedal a short distance a few times, if soft, repeat above. If you press hard on the pedal with air in the system you will offset the combination valve (proportioning and safety) and the brake light will come on on the dash. You will probably need 16 oz. of DOT-3. bg

 

[Tardog]

As B. G Smith said

pump pedal a short distance

This will prevent any rust or build up on the master cylinder push rod from scoring the seal, Just don't push it down any farther than you would do while driving.

 

[drrhoades]

For those of you that have changed rotors on a 4wd about how long did it take from start to finish, for the entire axle and bleeding the system.



Thanks,

Doug

 

[pgleavitt]

Put a small piece of 2X4 wood under the brake pedal before you start to pump the pedal. Alot of people have a master cyl. problem due to too much pedal travel and the rust from the push rod. Been there done that.

 

[SMorneau]

Why not DOT 4?

 

[IWeiny]

Not sure if your truck is like mine but my 99 took a long time to do the rotors.



You WILL need a puller and becarefull the bearings are sealed units and if you separate them you will be getting new wheel bearings.



I took my time and it came appart.



It took me all weekend to do new rotors, calipers, new rear cylendars and pads all around.



But I am not that much of a mechanic. ;-)

 

[Dennis Garrett]

to speed things up, suck out all the old, dirty fluid you can out of the reservior first, then fill it with new fluid. When you see clean, new, bubble free fluid at each bleeder valve, you should be done. Might take a couple of bottles, & don't let the reservior run dry while bleeding.