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Block 53 Casting Identification

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Power Loss Under Hard Acceleration

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Question:

I have been trying to determine whether or not I have a Block 53 engine casting. It looks like the number is under the injector pump and behind the vacuum/power steering pump. Is there a way to view the number without removing the vacuum pump/power steering pump?

My truck was delivered to me in May 1998 so it was an early 24 valve model. I just assume that I have a Block 53 casting. And in any event, even if it is a Block 53, what do you do except monitor the engine for coolant leaks coming out of the side of the block?

The engine is 44 miles shy of 263,000 miles so I plan to keep driving it until something develops.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
It has been a while but if I remember right the numbers were very large and could not be missed. Now I have heard the number may appear on the passenger side also. If it is a 53 and cracks you will know it either by smell or a puddle on the ground.
 
Some had the 53 only on the driver's side under the injection pump. Others had it on both sides. Either way, they are large numbers and very easy to spot if you are looking in the right area.
 
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Here ya go.

-Scott
 
I recall looking for the "53" on mine and don't recall seeing it. @ 245k its been trouble free, but I'll have to revisit to make certain. Fingers crossed...
 
Well, I finally answered the question as to the status of my engine block----it's a 53 block casting. No negotiating around this fact. However, I do have a line on a 24-valve, 1998.5 long-block engine that is not a 53 block. (It is hard to believe, I know.) I will inspect the engine closely and look for any other raised lettering but it may be a Teksid?block. The engine has 289,000 miles on it recovered from a salvaged 3500. My plan would be to rebuild the unit. I will let you know how discussions go.


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Better to be prepared I guess, especially if your going to hold on to the truck. Expensive spare part I know but the alternative is to have the 53 take a dump then start the search. It's a roll of the dice situation.
 
Did some reading about this 53 block problem. Im in the same boat, mine is cracked too in my truck. In issue 60 of the TDR there is a very good article and a contact person at loc and stitch. I started my own research, I went to some truck wrecking yards around my city and found some interesting facts. Here is what I found. Of 47 blocks that were 53 18 were cracked, one was blown apart at the main web (tractor pull motor) and had no crack at the radius. Of the 18 they measured .251" or less in the radius and down the side of the water jacket. The non cracked 53 blocks they measured .265 to .380 in the radius and water jacket. I have herd that the early 53 blocks were cast at a wall thickness of 5.5 mm and the later ones were cast at 11mm. These measurements were taken by removing the center soft plug and using a caliper. Each block was measured in three places. My block in my truck that is cracked measures .230 and she is broke big time. My replacement block is a 53 and measures from .301 to .405 so I will see if my research was worth the time.
Here is a drawing of the places I measured. I'm not a artist but it will give the idea of what I did.

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