Block 53 Casting Identification

[DClark]

Here is some information on the 53 Block issue:

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

Sorry I'm so late in this reply. I have a 98.5, bought new. At about 175K I went to work one day and saw that my temp gage was increasing faster then normal. On the way home it was producing wht smoke. I thought blown head gasket. Next morning there was green/grayish goo on the ground under it. There was no crack in the water jacket. Something internal broke. The mechanic could not find the problem. I did find a non-53 block and haven't had any problems since.
DClark

 

[SAndreasen]

Getting ready to repair one myself it’s getting a farmer fix no way I’m paying lock n screw 700$ when I bought a non 53 block for 500$

 

[SAndreasen]

Getting ready to repair one right now myself. Looked and lock n screw and no way in he11 I’m paying 700$ when I bought a non 53 block for 500$ .lots of guys have fixed tractor blocks with this method

 

[Ozymandias]

Other just weld it.

 

[Cummins12V98]

View attachment 112406 Here ya go.

-Scott

My Son has a block with “54” in the exact same spot as the 53 in pic.

Anyone know anything about this casting?

 

[SAndreasen]

Other just weld it.

Tried welding it never would completely seal and it cracked right behind the weld . I’ve been running it cracked for 2 years now just to see if it’s going to crack again and it hasn’t

 

[SAndreasen]

My Son has a block with “54” in the exact same spot as the 53 in pic.

Anyone know anything about this casting?

As long as it’s not a 53 you’re golden if it is a 53 good luck

 

[SAndreasen]

Question:

I have been trying to determine whether or not I have a Block 53 engine casting. It looks like the number is under the injector pump and behind the vacuum/power steering pump. Is there a way to view the number without removing the vacuum pump/power steering pump?

My truck was delivered to me in May 1998 so it was an early 24 valve model. I just assume that I have a Block 53 casting. And in any event, even if it is a Block 53, what do you do except monitor the engine for coolant leaks coming out of the side of the block?

The engine is 44 miles shy of 263,000 miles so I plan to keep driving it until something develops.

Thanks in advance for your input.

The 53 can be on either side of the block I thought I had gotten off Scott free but then I felt around and found the dreaded 53 if I had to do over again I would have bought the block reinforcement for these blocks and put it on when I knew it was a 53 . Sooner or later it’s going to crack

 

[KATOOM]

I'll just throw a monkey in this... The 53 was cast at more than one location and there are many lot numbers. Were they all the same? Because you'll find there are smooth finishes, rough finishes, glossy and dull paint. It was the most widely used block of the those years, including commercial applications. I dont have the number of how many were made but its a lot...

 

[SAndreasen]

I don’t know but I know three right in the area alone that have cracked in the last couple years . If you buy a 53 it better be a bargain price so you can afford to do a block swap or other type of repair . Of course you only hear of the cracked ones but it’s still a risk to buy one . I’ve owned 5 of these early model 99 and only one had a 53 block and it cracked so what’s the odds of that happening

 

[SAndreasen]

Question:

I have been trying to determine whether or not I have a Block 53 engine casting. It looks like the number is under the injector pump and behind the vacuum/power steering pump. Is there a way to view the number without removing the vacuum pump/power steering pump?

My truck was delivered to me in May 1998 so it was an early 24 valve model. I just assume that I have a Block 53 casting. And in any event, even if it is a Block 53, what do you do except monitor the engine for coolant leaks coming out of the side of the block?

The engine is 44 miles shy of 263,000 miles so I plan to keep driving it until something develops.

Thanks in advance for your input.

I have owned 5 early 99 build date model 24 valves out Of the 5 only one has had a 53 block and it cracked

 

[savage54]

What was the first year the 53 block was produced and the last year? My 97 12v has a 53 in small numbers on the block and I've had know issues with it.

 

[Cummins12V98]

This is my Son's truck, "someone" ran it low on oil and now is being freshened up!

 

[SAndreasen]

I have heard of 12 valve 53 blocks but never seen one.

 

[SAndreasen]

Did some reading about this 53 block problem. Im in the same boat, mine is cracked too in my truck. In issue 60 of the TDR there is a very good article and a contact person at loc and stitch. I started my own research, I went to some truck wrecking yards around my city and found some interesting facts. Here is what I found. Of 47 blocks that were 53 18 were cracked, one was blown apart at the main web (tractor pull motor) and had no crack at the radius. Of the 18 they measured .251" or less in the radius and down the side of the water jacket. The non cracked 53 blocks they measured .265 to .380 in the radius and water jacket. I have herd that the early 53 blocks were cast at a wall thickness of 5.5 mm and the later ones were cast at 11mm. These measurements were taken by removing the center soft plug and using a caliper. Each block was measured in three places. My block in my truck that is cracked measures .230 and she is broke big time. My replacement block is a 53 and measures from .301 to .405 so I will see if my research was worth the time.
Here is a drawing of the places I measured. I'm not a artist but it will give the idea of what I did.

View attachment 114400

here’s what I did on my 53 block