Block Heater Question?!?!?

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My block heater must be burnt up in my 92 Dodge Cummins. I thought that it was a Cummins or Dealer item only, but I called Advanced Auto just hoping they might have one and the lady said she did for 20 bucks? Does this sound right? Sounds way to cheap. Although I like that price! :) Does anyone have a picture so I can see what is looks like internally? I have not pulled the old one yet. Thanks for any information guys.



Brenton
 
Check the cord to see if it is good or order Fleetguard heater part # 3313272-c from you local Cummins dealer or distributor. It comes with a new cord. The p/n for the cord by itself is 251919. Shadrach
 
Have you checked your cord for a short or other malfunction? I had one in my 92 that would blow the GCFI (Cape Gir. code) outdoor oulet circuit. Changed the cord, and all is well.



But if you can get a new heater and cord for $20, go for it. Cords alone go for $20 on ebay all the time. I dont think it is out of line, high or low.
 
Yes the cord was putting 110 volts through. The heater element was open though. I have a new cord, and also tried it, but still nothing. Does anyone know what the freeze plug diameter is? Thanks.



Brenton
 
It is a real quick and easy change-out. I did mine in subzero Wyoming last winter in less than 5 minutes. Typically the heating element will short out to the block or casing causing the GFCI to trip. You will need to drain your coolant down about 4 quarts to get the block level below the block heater level. If you do the work after you have run the engine, your hands do not even get cold. :)
 
I did a change-out on my 230K mile 1990 in a warm garage and it was about a 7 hour job. I changed the oil too cuz the oil filter has to be removed to allow room for the two large pry bars.



How do you get to it in five min? You drain the coolant out of a hot engine? LOL I'm just funn'n you. :D



It's not any easy job in the least. The O ring is swelled up tighter than a drum. You can't just pull it out.



They are 40. 00 from a truck dealer for the Zerostart brand.
 
On my early 91 the block heater is located in the freeze plug hold on the turbo side of the block near the fire wall. As I recall the procedure went something like this. . . . . . shut off the truck, wait 30 minutes for the engine to cool enough to drain the coolant (remember subzero conditions). Unscrew the allen head on the heater and use a good pair of vice grips to yank the old one out being very careful to work the internal clamp bracket through the freeze plug hole. Use a greeny to clean up the O ring surface and install the new one into the hole - I put some vaseline on the O ring to keep from binding it. Tighten the allen head and refill the truck anti-freeze. Honest it took longer to get the necessary clothing on, pull the tools out and put stuff away then it did to do the work - maybe the later models are more difficult to get to.
 
I R&R'ed one yesterday on a 1999 school bus and it was easy four hour job. I even had help. The "Boss" even commented that these durn things are a PITA to R&R



Oh... more good news: Another driver said her bus will not start and it's been plugged in all night... ... ... ... ... ... :{ :(
 
HTML:
it was easy four hour job. I even had help



That's because you're both from SLOHIO



:-laf :-laf :-laf



ROFLMAO
 
Block heater replacement

I did mine on my 1990 a few years ago. It was located behind the oil filter. I did it at oil change time, and I drained a few quarts of coolant into a clean bucket, so I could reuse the coolant.



The first time it failed (about 7 or 8 years ago!), I changed just the plug end of the cord. Got that idea from a buddy of mine. It worked for a couple years.



I think it was $35 to $40 for the Zerostart heater. It was just a little loop element, and it was pretty easy.



A word of warning: do not plug it in to test before installation. If you light that thing up and it's not in the block full of antifreeze, it will destroy it.



Eddie
 
Right on both accounts. They are 40. 00 and (I believe) the instructions remind you to never plug it in dry and be sure to bleed out ALL the air in the coolant prior to power-up.



On the Cummins, you can pull one of the plugs on top the cyl. head and fill her up. Then plug the hole and top off. I operate the engine for a time to allow the coolant to pass the gas (purge) remainder of air out trapped in the heater core etc. etc.



SLOHIO,,,,,, I don't get it.
 
Some times they come out easy, and sometimes they don't! :-{} I've had them both ways. I always take some emery paper and clean the bore of the hole. A clean hole doesn't cut the o-ring, and it goes in a little smoother.



Slohio... . good one Jay! :-laf
 
SLOhio

Good one, Jay. I think he (greenleaf) said his first VE R&R was something outrageous like 7 hours, too. :-laf. Government employees :rolleyes: I guess it is better to know your limits and stay within them, but my girlfriend did her first VE R&R in under an hour (replaced the gasket on Mom's truck). She did have some help from an advanced ameteur, though;)



Just kidding ya, Scott.



Daniel
 
Found another bad block heater. (Got 27 of them here) This one is mounted on/in the oil cooler housing. It threads in! Oo. I hope it is a snap. It tested good (19 ohms) but it don't do anything... ... ... ... ..... :confused: :confused:



Once I drain the coolant into a clean container (find one first) then pull the heater and wire cord, then install the element/new cord and refill the coolant. Bleed the five heater cores it shouldn't be much more than a three hour job... . I hope. Also have to remove the OEM plug/cover assy. If I don't, the driver will STILL use this one even though it's not connected to anything. :rolleyes: :-{} :-{}



Lots of coffee between tasks which equates to lots of bathroom breaks too :D



Like I said..... about three hours... ... . I "hope"
 
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