Block Heater

[Archive]

Just FYI...

I measured the current the engine block heater draws using a current clamp.

The result... . 6 AMPS.

Which would be 720 watts AC.


Dave

 

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Used mine today for the first time. What a difference. I could hear it working right away. Full temp after 2 miles. One flick of the wrist to start, and even the cab was warmer. It was 23 degrees when I started it at noon. I left it plugged in for 3 hours.

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98. 5 3500 SLT Quad Dually 4x4. Waterfall Blk on red. Custom dually flaps, All acc's w/leather
BD exhaust brake, dash mount Banks guages, Mag-Hytec Diff. cover, SS bug screen and fender trim,SS Stull diamond line running boards, Crome 4" turn down.

 

[Archive]

The result... . 6 AMPS. Which would be 720 watts AC.

Thanks Dave! I had seen a couple of different #'s floating around, glad to have some confirmation. And I'm a little more comfortable leaving it on longer, now that I know it is less draw than most space heaters.

 

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Dave;

That assumes a full 120 volts at the end of the extension cord. Did you measure the voltage, too?

I ru mine on a 15 amp appliance timer without any problem. I make sure to avoid shut offs with the timer as the <em>breaks</em> are tougher on the contacts than the <em>makes</em>.

Cheers;

 

[Archive]

Hey the timer idea is a great idea, that way you don't have to keep it on all night. Would recommend a heavy duty timer vs. one of those light timers.

A timer like those used for hot water heaters, etc.



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99' Qcab, 4x4, auto, chrome nerf bars, VA, Boost elbow, DiProcal Pillar mount gauges,

 

[Archive]

JohnE
Are you saying that it's better to unplug when the power is still on and easier on the contacts. I've been turning the timer off prior to unplugging as I thought just the opposite would be true, i. e. , unplugging when the power is on would be harder on the contacts. I'm not second guessing you, just wondering if I have been doing wrong.

Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and engine oil temp. gauges,Edge EZ box,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7">

[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 12-14-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

JohnE,

The extension cord is a 20' HD plugged into an outside box(GFI). There is probably a small drop across the cord, not enough to bother me. I was just curious on the current, since I leave it plugged in overnight. It will arc good when plugged in, the surge is probably 2-3X what I measured

I also measured the "block" temp with a TC. It was about 90F at one of the galley plugs, when the outside temp was ~10F. This was after being plugged in overnight. I would guess the antifreeze temp is ~100F. The oil was still VERY cold however, not much heat gets transferrred to the pan.

Dave

 

[Archive]

Bigsaint (Scott);
Yes, unplugging the cord with the <em>power on</em> is easier on the unit than turning off the timer (opening the contacts).
It has to do with the arc (spark) generating a lot of heat.
My previous pickup has a 1200W block heater. I cooked the timer contacts by letting the timer turn off the power. I use Intermatic Time-all® that are rated for 1875W (resistive). Get them cheap in multiple packs at Costco or Home Depot, etc.

Dave;
Wow, that is one warm truck. I added a link to oil immersion heaters below. One of the regular posters had it in another thread.


With a water heater timer you can let the contacts open and close. They're rated for the duty. It also is a double pole unit. You can run 2 circuits, one for the coolant heater and another for an oil heater

Cheers;
-John

[This message has been edited by JohnE (edited 12-14-2000). ]

 

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JohnE,

Good info. Was curious on the oil heater. How to install in the pan. I think the only thick/flanged surface is the drain plug area. Too cold to look under it now, and I have NO garage, or it WOULD be heated. . LOL


Dave

 

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justbramn, your truck warmed up in 2 miles??
I worked an over nighter last night, had it plugged in for the full 12 hrs.
Temp was about 30 when I got there, and about 40 when I left.
It still took a good 5 miles of driving to warm up fully.
This isnt city driving, it was 55 MPH.
Can the 24 valvers warm up that much quicker??
Not complaining, just comparing notes.

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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Patriot, Don't now if there is a difference between the 12 valves and the 24 valves. My coffee mug that was left in the cab over night also un-thawed.

 

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As long as we're on the topic,

Is it ok to start the truck with the block heater still plugged in?

 

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I've been doing it every winter day for 5 years,no problems.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,Driftwood,Banks&Phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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JohnE
Thanks for the advice, I'll do it your way from now on.

Scott W.

 

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Anyone found a replacement for the heater power plug cap? Dealer can only order the cord @ 28+$. Just need a new cap to keep the plug clean on the road.

\\BF//

EDIT: in ref to Bill below, I know butt was hopeing to find a supplier of a quality cap that we could use for all (if we could get a 100 @ a buck or 2 apeice and "redistrubite" as necessary) of us. They will break eventually and having a source might not be a bad idea... ... . butt then I cant type/spell/and lack motivation (UHHHH thats what the Cummins is 4! #ad
#ad
).

[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 12-15-2000). ]

 

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Ben,just get an adaptor that converts a three prong plug to a two prong outlet from the hardware store and cut the two prongs off or use the female end off a trashed extension cord. If you like you can drill a small hole thru it to run nylon twine to keep it from getting lost. This is what I've done on my tractor block heater cords that didn't come with protectors.

 

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Cooker, I blew out an element by starting it up while connected on my Mack. This was with an "opened" cooling system. It didnt have an overflow tank, so there was an inch or so air in the top tank. Starting it up resulted in air bubbles circulating through the entire cooling system.
The dodge has the closed system, so there is little chance of air bubbles in the system.
I still unhook it out of habit.

 

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Patriot, et al;
I have the habit of leaving the block heater plugged in until I get ready to leave. No problem with the electric heater &amp; I use the 1100 rpm idle safe guard.

For the first time, I tried to back out of the driveway with the extension cord securely attached to the block heater. This was really bad as I push the extension cord receptacle into the space by the heater cord UNDER the hood.

Gotta rethink my strategy on that one... ...

-John

 

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I got my plug routed through the bumper. Sticks out around the bumper fog light.
HTH

 

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I also re-routed my plug to the bumper next to the fog light. It's much easier to reach. I bought a female adapter from the hardware store and plug that into the block plug when it's not in use.

Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and engine oil temp. gauges,Edge EZ box,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7">


[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 12-19-2000). ]