Block the radiator: It really does work!

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To remove fan... . get a 1 and 7/16" combination wrench. Any cheap throw away will do ($15 - $20).

Wrench will fit over large fan hun nut. Standing in front of truck hammer wrench clockwise or to the right. If it does not want to break loose, jam a large flat bar/ screw driver between two of the four small bolt heads on the hub to hold the hub while hammering nut loose.

With current temps, could remove radiator. Doudt Tstat has opened in several weeks.

jjw
ND

 

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OK IllFlem... you win on this one. Better to have a round hole in the middle then lose a blade. Any idea how much more/less noise the blades make with the rad covered? All the more reason for the horton electric fan I guess.

 

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Big-D,it's always seemed like the engine is louder when my front is covered. I think it's mostly from the sound be reflected back towards the cab rather than exiting the front. I don't really notice much difference until I remove it when the warm temps come back,then it seems like my engine has gotten much quieter. So I guess a positive way to look at it is for much of year your truck runs quieter.

 

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A sheet of 3/16" rubber (with a hole in the middle for the fan clutch) slides down between the radiator and the intercooler on my truck. It works great! The engine warms up much more quickly and stays warmer when shutdown for a couple of hours. It goes in when temps are in the low 40's; it comes out whem temps stay in the 50's. Very easy to slide in or out. Doesn't affect EGT at all.

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95 2500 SLT, clubcab, 2wd, longbed, a/t, 3. 54, 140K miles, "all the usual refinements"

 

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i installed a piece of 1/16 lexan with an 8. 5" hole in front of the fan and 2 3" holes behind the trans cooler in front of my radiator last nite , temps hits 190 with in 2 miles of 35 mph , before it took over 7 miles and that was at least 5 at highway speed . nice and toasty ... now i need to address the intercooler , my EGT is about 150 degrees lower , some of my mileage has seemed to return , but i'm running much cooler on the highway , but i also have been running with the VA for the last 2 lousy tanks .

 

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I've been wanting to ask this since I read the first reply on this.

Since our trucks have thermostats in the cooling system, why does blocking the airflow seem to have such a significant impact?

Regards,

Hal

[This message has been edited by HGH (edited 12-24-2000). ]

 

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No reply from our learned brotherhood?


Regards,

Hal

 

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Hal,I've often wondered that myself,but blocking the front does make a difference. Could be that less air flow over the intercooler raises the intake air temp and the engine runs warmer. Also the entire engine compartment will get warmer with less airflow. I don't think my thermostat has opened for a couple of weeks,just the heater coil is enough to cool the engine. Also have noticed in subzero weather if I'm running the heater on recirc the coolant temp will rise to 180°,but it will instantly drop to 140°if I switch the heater to any other position

 

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Hi guys,

I have 2 questions:

1. Does my Y2K have a heater recirc setting, and if so, which position is it?

2. Are the 2 defrost settings the only heat settings that will make the a/c engage? Should I avoid those settings to save a/c wear and tear unless I really need defrost?

I think that was more than 2 questions, but oh well.

Thanks
Greg

 

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Greg I believe if you have your setting on bi-level (blows heat up above and below) that is also engages the a/c compressor in addition to the two defrost settings.

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2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, group, cab lights, Isspro Boost and Pyrometer gauges mounted on A-pillar, 4" JRE exhaust, BD exhaust brake. 22500 miles as of 11/11/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.

 

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I just got home from a trip to South Dakota. I made a cardboard radiator block before I left. Never needed it. Even with sub-zero temps at 75 mph, I had 190 degrees and plenty of heat in the cab. Still, it was nice to know I had the cardboard in the bed if I needed it.

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green

 

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Dave,what I've noticed from posts on this subject is that the 24 valves don't seem to have the cold running problem like the 12s,I'd like to find out what the change was that caused this.

 

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All engines have a small bypass around the thermostat somewhere - you can't just deadhead a pump, it will fry! There MUST also be a way of bleeding out air in the system after filling. A lot of t stats have a tiny hole near the edge. My 12 valve has a 1/4" hose at the front of the head. Small block Chevies have the bypass built into the pump. There is always some circulation even with the t stat closed. Heater water doesn't even shut off anymore and the cores don't plug with sediment like they used to. The radiator still needs to be blocked! Airflow around the engine makes a big difference too! Some street rods don't have louvers in the hoods just for looks. I used to block up the back of the hood on my OTR truck in the summer for better cooling. Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, AFC kit, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

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HEHE I have a 96 dually 12 valver and it was 16 degrees here and I had her pluged in for the frist time since she was bought new in 96. She cranked right up and I have heat in a matter of mins... . I dont need no card board... . my rams warmmmmm,,,,,,,,,,,hehe

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1993 Dodge Prostock Daytona 7:70@172, 1987 Grand National 11:77@115, 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually. Stock with a 5 speed, Home page http://www.home.earthlink.net/~whra3

 

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Yeah Hyper,but some of us haven't seen it get as hot as 16°in a few weeks. #ad

 

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Illflem, my guess would be the 24v runs better when its cold due to the somewhat electronic injection. I know a friend of mine has a 12v that will hardly run if not plugged in below 32*.

My roommate has a 95 phord with a psd and they have an exhaust brake like thing that corks the exhaust of when its cold. It works good gets heat quick and will actualy melt the snow off the hood in a short time(where my cummins never will) But through a straight pipe it sounds like a giant tire leak lol

Clark

[This message has been edited by Bad340fish (edited 12-31-2000). ]