Blow by hose connection: which method?

[Walker]

Will connecting a 3/4" heater hose to the existing blow by hose with a barbed connector cause any type of flow restriction from having a smaller inside diameter area at the connection? (... why do some people do it this way?)



Or can you just eliminate the entire existing hose and get all new hose to extend and eliminate the bottle?



What size is the existing hose anyway? I've heard some using 5/8 instead of 3/4.



Just wondering if there's a difference in preference.

 

[Thomas]

I think the hose and barb would be less restrictive than the holes in the pill bottle.

 

[LSMITH]

The hose that comes on the truck has a loop at the top to eliminate oil from leaving due to gravity and splash on the timing gear. You will probably kink anything else trying to get it to loop around on the top end. The barb ID should be around . 575" so there is way more than enough flow. I would suspect that an engine in good mechanical shape needs no more than . 375" for proper ventilation.



The hose on my 99 is a 3/4" ID hose for sure, a 5/8" barb and extension hose would work though.



I used a clear re-enforced plastic hose on mine, it is WAY cheaper than heater hose and fits the bill just fine, about $6 for enough hose to do 3 trucks, and the barb was less than a buck.

 

[illflem]

Think the hose is 3/4 OD. I used 3/4 ID hose and just slipped it over the stock hose, no coupling, works great

 

[emarsh]

I got a plastic 3/4" x 1" barb x barb fitting and 8 ft of ONE inch clear food processing hose with braid reinforcing. I chose this because of the price and the fact that 1 inch poses less resriction over the longer length. Just another way to do it. If someone wants part numbers, i will look it up, i bought it from McMaster-Carr.

 

[DieselB59]

take the shortest route

Just remember, putting a long hose onto the existing hose doesn't make the situation better. I've seen a truck that had about eight feet of hose added to the blowby hose and the oil cooled by the time it reached the end and was made into a chocolate pudding consistency, which clogged the hose. If it continued, the front and rear seals would have blown in the engine. My suggestion is to extend the hose down to about the height of the front axle, that's it.

 

[Joe Mc]

Used a 3/4" hose about 8' long & double barbed end + 2 hose calmps and a bunch of pull ties. It now turns down on the transfer case skid plate mounitng bracket. The oil pan & front end are clean. As evidenced by the stream of mist it is not restriced after 10,000 miles.

 

[Wiredawg]

Hose straight down

Gents:



I got rid of the bottle and ran a hose straight down, put a clamp around the front anti sway bar and one around the house to keep it from flopping around. It extends a couple of inches below the fron dif. I've had this setup about 8 months and it works great. Oo.



I was afraid if I extended it to the rear of the the engine the oil would slime up and stop up... as bad or worse than the bottle.



Happy engineering!



Wiredawg

 

[RJOL]

Originally posted by Joe Mc

Used a 3/4" hose about 8' long & double barbed end + 2 hose calmps and a bunch of pull ties. It now turns down on the transfer case skid plate mounitng bracket. The oil pan & front end are clean. As evidenced by the stream of mist it is not restriced after 10,000 miles.

I think what Chris was trying to tell you is that if that 8' piece of hose gets clogged by water, ice, mud, snow, or anything else, you can blow your seals in the engine... .

 

[WMeyers]

I got 3 feet of 3/4 inch heater hose, a 3/4 inch double barb connector and clamps for less than $5, ran it straight down (think I used only about 2 feet of the 3 feet I bought), tied it to the front anti sway bar and cut it off about 2 inches below the bar. Works fine and everything is clean.

 

[Mick2500]

I just relocated my bottle last week. At 7,300

miles, the mess on the front of the engine was pretty evident. I only had about a teaspoon of oil in the bottom of the bottle after 7K miles.

I bought two feet of 3/4" heater hose ($2. 70) and a 3/4"X 3/4" male/male hose barb ($0. 45) plus one

black nylon hold-down strap ($0. 29) at Ace Hardware. I added the full length of heater hose to the stock hose after removing the bottle. I routed it under the washer fluid bottle and just outside of the left front frame rail. I then found a convenient hole in the frame to stick a bolt through and relocated the factory bottle to this new location. I cut off about 9" excess off the new heater hose. I also put a hose strap on the original hose just to hold it away from the fan.

I'll get some pictures up somewhere one of these days soon... ... when Photopoint died, so did my pic posting.

 

[Bigsaint]

I believe the hose Chris is referring to was mine . I had it that way until I was informed by the good folks at A. W. D of it's hazards. Since then, it remains a straight shot down to the track bar and works well. My driveway at home is stone, so it would be difficult to see any spots on same. At work, it's black top asphalt and I have yet see a drop under the truck after it has been parked. Common sense would indicate that the bottom of the drivetrain would get the oily mist, but mine is very clean. I can't see a reason for keeping the bottle attached, unless you have a concrete driveway and are concerned over the occasional drip.



Scott W.

 

[MikeBeggy]

I recently read another TDR post where the author used a 1/2 inch pipe welded to the down pipe and a n anti-blowback valve fron Summit to extract the engine crankcase directly into the exhaust system... really rang a bell for me as I have used this trick many times with h. p. gas engines and headers. I am digging around my shop looking for an old/unused valve so I can do the same to the ol' Cummins. Makes good sense to me.

 

[Mick2500]

I just found the new Gallery format here so I put my rerouted blow-by bottle pictures up. Follow the "My Gallery" link at hte bottom of my sig line.



Mick

 

[JWhitcomb]

I used about three feet of 3/4 and left the factory loop in. At night when I pull up to a stop I most always see a wisp of smoke in the left head light beam, disapates pretty quick.

 

[stevek]

So thats why it always looks like there is fog when I first come to a stop sign or light at night

 

[DieselB59]

Okay, Scott, it was yours... . but the lesson we at AWD learned from that saved many other trucks including your own... so I had to pass it on. As far as introducing the blowby to exhaust, that's not a good idea either. My wife's VW Jetta TDI had exhaust gas recirculation and crankcase blowby recirculation. These two combined in the intake to form a plastic like sludge that filled entirely the 2" intake port until it couldn't breathe. Plumbing your blowby into the exhaust will do the same thing to the inside of your exhaust pipe... . build up sludge until it begins to put a restriction in the pipe. Diesels like to breathe freely. I took the intake off the car and had it bead blasted to remove the buildup. It doesn't just come off. Putting blowby into the exhaust would mean adding another list of things to do every 10,000 miles. Remove exhaust and have pipes bead blasted internally.

 

[Bigsaint]

No problem Chris. If I've learned one thing from life it is that it's okay to make mistakes as long as you learn from them. Actually, I've posted quite a bit on this subject and most always told of my initial error in the re-route of the blow-by. That's one of the great things about the TDR, we can learn from others who have been there and done that .



Scott W.

 

[DieselB59]

The cool thing is that in my position, I monitor pretty much all of the major diesel discussion boards. Sometimes, things I learn from the VW board and the Brand X board help us figure out what's going on with our trucks. That's why I'm proud to be there to help anyone out who needs it. The best pay that I can get is not always government issued. Sometimes the good feeling that you get when you help some guy fix his truck with a scattered bunch of hand tools in the dark in his driveway is far more pleasing. I'm right there with ya, Scott!

 

[Joe Mc]

Originally posted by RJOL





I think what Chris was trying to tell you is that if that 8' piece of hose gets clogged by water, ice, mud, snow, or anything else, you can blow your seals in the engine... .

So I guess the first post I saw over the summer about running it out to the rear bumper wasn't a good one I guess I'll be shortening that sucker first warm weather we get. Thanks for the tip.