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blue smoke and barely running

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Recently while pulling a heavy load up a long fairly steep grade on interstate, my truck started shaking like I had just blown a tire. I coasted to a stop on the side of the road to check it out. When I got stopped, I noticed that the engine was running very rough like it was only on a couple of cylinders and it was puffing rich blue smoke out of the exhaust. I thought that major engine damage of some sort had happened. I had to move the truck and trailer to get to a safer spot. As I slowly drove, the chugging and smoking got less and less. No check engine lights or warnings ever came on. All gauges were in normal ranges. EGT had not exceeded 1300. No leaking fluids or visibly broken or damaged anything. I drove another 300 miles home and it ran perfectly the rest of the way. Anyone have any idea what might have happened?
 
I would have someone plug in and check to see if it logged any codes. You could have had a hiccup in your cam or crank sensor circuit, where it threw you timing off. Could your voltage have gotten low? Low voltage really screws with the newer electronic engines.
 
My Banks tuner plugs into the cam and crank sensors. Could it have been a problem there? I called them and they had no ideas. Don't know about the voltage. I was driving in the daytime. No headlights. No AC or heater fan on. I will have it checked though. Batteries are original, but it always starts great in the cold.
 
My Banks tuner plugs into the cam and crank sensors. Could it have been a problem there? I called them and they had no ideas. Don't know about the voltage. I was driving in the daytime. No headlights. No AC or heater fan on. I will have it checked though. Batteries are original, but it always starts great in the cold.



Fill out your sig, so we know what you have ! :D
 
No PDA, just the switch. They explained to me about the green and red LED lights of the front of the tuner itself that will flash a code, but they do not. It stays steady green.
 
No PDA, just the switch. They explained to me about the green and red LED lights of the front of the tuner itself that will flash a code, but they do not. It stays steady green.



OK,Here's were you wished you had the PowerPDA because it would have stored the code. Although it seems the problem has corrected itself, if solid green that means the engine has met the criteria to function normally, you can use the IC to check for stored codes, if the problem continues check the leads immediately, and report back.
 
Is that something to worry about? Would that contaminate the engine oil with fuel? Going to do an oil analysis. Waiting for the kit to get here. The injectors were replaced under warranty a year ago and have less that 30,000 miles on them. The CP3 was replaced about a month ago also under warranty. I use a lubricity additive with every drop of fuel that goes through it. Opti lube diesel fuel improver. It scored in the top four in a wear study, well above all the other popular additives that everyone talks about or uses here.
 
Agreed. Wish I had the PDA or better yet, Banks' new IQ dashboard PC. Money is tight, so it will have to wait. Will try to get it scanned as soon as possible and will report back. Hope it never happens again. I thought it was done for when it happened.
 
Agreed. Wish I had the PDA or better yet, Banks' new IQ dashboard PC. Money is tight, so it will have to wait. Will try to get it scanned as soon as possible and will report back. Hope it never happens again. I thought it was done for when it happened.



We have install the IQ in 3 customers Truck, I am very disappointed at present with the Device 1. 5 with E2 will smoke the current IQ options, the device itself is much better then the E2,BANKS had better come up with some new features( I'm sure they will ). Once we get the interface We will be able to manipulate it to our liking. :-laf:-laf ,I think you will be just fine.
 
Does the banks unit use the t-taps into the wiring when installed? I hate the t-taps. I nstalled a Banks Exhaust Brake on my Father Inlaws 03' and argued with him about it while installing it. I did not feel comfortable t-tapping the wires for the apps and some of the other important wires. The t-taps only create more problems as far as I am concerned. They are asking for intermittent continuity issues. If your banks unit used t-taps, they could be suspect. Just my opinion, sorry for the rant.
 
I did have a problem with the camshaft position sensor. I returned to the dealer and it was defective. Loss of power, crazy running. It's fine now. Roger M.
 
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