Bogging down issue

[Corkster]

I had an issue yesterday that has never happened to me before and wonder if there might be a simple answer to something I may be overlooking as I troubleshoot. My 1997 Ram 2500 5.9L diesel after having traveled 300 miles one way to haul a 24 foot trailer with no issues, on the return trip, after fueling up and going about 80 miles started to start clunking like I might have a tire issue. Checked tires and no issue and headed out again and it started doing again, but I noticed that it was only happening when I was getting on the throttle pretty hard. Got off the interstate again and, in park, revved the engine to almost 3000 rpm with no issue. Decided to take secondary highway and after 50 miles with no issue, got back on the interstate....and it happened again! Also noticed that when it bogged down blue smoke would roll out both exhausts. Resigned to ride it out to my final location and only rev up until it starts to bog down and then let off the throttle. Forgot to mention also that the engine would die at almost every stop light for the final 30 miles or so.After dropping the trailer with a friend, and discussing the issue a bit, I picked up some Lucas injector cleaner and, after fueling up, put 2 bottles in. The engine stopped dying at idle almost immediately, but there was still blue smoke when it bogged down. When I got to the first rest stop on the interstate I picked up a bottle of Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat and put a several ounces in. Now, it still bogged down, but no more blue smoke. I know this is a long-winded story, but I am wondering if I just got a bad tank of fuel when I headed out and it just needs to work its way out or a fuel filter, or an air filter or what the heck is going on???? Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Mark31]

This looks like classic case of a stopped up fuel filter. Could be a bad tank of fuel or (my guess) an old filter that just finally couldn't flow enough. Get someone to change your fuel filter and inspect your air filter. If air and fuel can get in the cylinders and it ain't knocking, it is gonna go

 

[Joe Mc]

My thoughts as per Mark31 above. Bad load of fuel. Run it out (to almost empty), change filter, get a fresh load and take her on a long ride to clear out and remnants of the schmutz you picked up. Keep us posted. Maybe add some quality fuel treatment.

I've been using "Hot Shot's Diesel" EDT = Every Day Diesel Treatment. Seems like Tractor Supply lists it. You might look into Hot Shot's "Diesel Extreme" just for info. Not meaning to promote any manufacturer - just sharing what I've been using and seems to work good.

 

[Mark31]

Joe, I look at it a little different than you. If I suspected bad fuel, I would not start it again until the tank was drained and the fuel inspected. If anything shows up , then do whatever it takes to get the tank clean--washing out several times or removing it if necessary. I would not want to try to push anything bad thru a filter and ruin a pump and injectors. Then, I'd run it a week or so and then change the filter again. Diesel fuel systems do not forgive owners for giving them bad fuel, so they get revenge on their billfolds.

 

[Joe Mc]

Mark thanks. I was under the assumption that corkster had run many times after potential bad load and was looking to clear remnants out. Bad load of fuel can be described many different ways = ton of water/fuel mix (oxymoron), a little bit, bacteria or a myriad of other contaminants. Yes if there was a bad load and it ran poorly or not at all drain, flush, 3 - 4 gallons of fresh, drain & etc.

 

[Corkster]

I deleted this one post during my learning curve.

 

[Corkster]

I've been using "Hot Shot's Diesel" EDT = Every Day Diesel Treatment. Seems like Tractor Supply lists it. You might look into Hot Shot's "Diesel Extreme" just for info. Not meaning to promote any manufacturer - just sharing what I've been using and seems to work good.

I found both of these products on Amazon, but will look for a Tractor Supply near me to grab some quickly.

Thank you all for your responses. I am new to this forum and will learn how to use it very quickly. I've not tore into it yet, but as I continued to do searches over the internet, I noticed a number of owners recommended (some with Youtube "how to do" videos attached) cleaning and/or replacing the fuel heater screen in system and some even removed the heater above it. Should I also be considering doing this? Thanks

 

[mfurrh55]

I found both of these products on Amazon, but will look for a Tractor Supply near me to grab some quickly.

Thank you all for your responses. I am new to this forum and will learn how to use it very quickly. I've not tore into it yet, but as I continued to do searches over the internet, I noticed a number of owners recommended (some with Youtube "how to do" videos attached) cleaning and/or replacing the fuel heater screen in system and some even removed the heater above it. Should I also be considering doing this? Thanks

I buy mine from Auto Zone

 

[GAmes]

Remove the heater for sure. The screen is to protect the lift pump from big chunks of debris that bypass the screen in the tank. The screen is reusable. If it is clogged by a slimy substance it is algae. I'm posting an article about boats because the best stuff to clean it out is sold at boat supply houses. http://www.boatcoachbob.com/articles-boat-maintenance/engines-inboard/prevent-remove-diesel-algae/

 

[Joe Mc]

Corkster, I'm not very familiar with the 12valves. I do know the 24V have many stock lift pump problems and what most folks have done is remove totally the stock LP and filter assy and replaced with aftermarket units located on the frame and closer to the fuel tank therefore the "pusher" pump is always primed and pushes fuel instead of trying to pull up (and from about a 10' distance) fuel then deliver it to the injection pump. BTW it's a heck of a lot easier to change fuel filter from under the truck than fiddling around in the engine compartment. If you decide to go this route it's a good idea to install a valve (ball valve) before the pump/filter.

 

[GAmes]

Joe, a '97 12 valve is a bit different than your 24V. 12V lift pumps are very hardy. I change mine at 300,000 mile intervals, as preventative maintenance. I've never had one fail to get me home. I believe our fuel filters are the same. The fuel canister drops down to the frame for replacement, but only after loosening the captive nut on top of the filter housing.

 

[Joe Mc]

Games, thanks. A bit more familiar than I led onto with the 12V's, just haven't worked on many of them. Wish I could "P-Pump" my 24V, actually could, but $$$ and electronics has prevented me from doing so. As I'm sure you know the 24V's with the VP pretty much peak out around 600HP unless you start throwing $$$$ at it for cam and etc. So, I'll stick with the 525RWHP & 1000RWTQ that I'm at and keep the $$$ in my pocket. What do you really need more HP/TQ for? Maybe pulling a sled or drag racing, which I don't do. Well I haven't been down the strip with my truck, yet, I know a guy with exact set up as mine (except he has full billet trans shafts and is loaded $$$, he launches at 40# and 4X4) and he runs high 11's. So I'm good where I'm at.

 

[Corkster]

Changed out the fuel and air filters today and cleaned the prefilter. Took a while to prime, but I found if my buddy pushed the primer button while I cranked, it started in 2 pushes. Test drive was fantastic. Mashed the pedal to the floor and it ran through the gears in seconds! Thanks for the help guys!