Boost leaks: when to fix?

[brods]

When is a leak bad enough to warrant fixing? All the hoses have small seepage with 10 psi. It takes a while for the foam to develop so they're not gross leaks. Even the intake manifold to the block has seepage as well as the sensor in the manifold. Should they be repaired or wait until / if they get worse?
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Also, should the turbo blades be cleaned or left alone? Would spraying them with carb cleaner hurt anything? Turbo at around 70K (it was not cleaned) #ad


Turbo at 130K
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[promisedland]

Subscribed.... Do you mind posting a pic of your boost test thingy?
Did you cap at the intake horn?

 

[brods]

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1-1/2” threaded pvc plug (tapped the end ¼” npt for the pneumatic fitting)
2” x 1-1/2” threaded pvc reducer bushing
4” x 2” reducer coupling

The coupling was actually a mistake since I thought people were using 4” pipe stuff. The turbo inlet is 4” OD not 4-1/2” OD like pipe is. Fortunately the clamp could compress the rubber enough to get down to 4”. Be aware the rubber coupling is only rated for 4.3 psi so I wouldn’t try to get to high pressure with it. I tested at 10 psi.
The setup was connected to the turbo inlet and the air supply was regulated to 10 psi. No block off plate or anything else. The truck still has the stock plastic IC and it was about the only thing not leaking.

 

[petersonj]

I can't seem to figure out how to delete this post. The post I intended to write is below.

- John

 

[petersonj]

When is a leak bad enough to warrant fixing? All the hoses have small seepage with 10 psi. It takes a while for the foam to develop so they're not gross leaks.

I thought maybe others might have chimed in by now, so I will throw in my two cents worth. I have never performed this test, but I don't think that the seepage you are seeing is hindering performance. The turbo puts out a tremendous volume of air and the amount of air loss due to seepage compared to the amount of air passing through the engine would be miniscule - kind of like removing a cup of sand from the beach everyday to see if anyone would notice.

It would be worth your time to check the condition of each boot connection and to ensure the clamps are tight. Do not over tighten as some of the clamps (the ones with the springs) are constant torque clamps to handle thermal expansion and contraction and vibration.

I have over 250,000 miles on the original boot connections on my truck and I am sure that some of them would seep if I tested them as you have done.

- John

 

[cerberusiam]

Pull all the connections, clean them up, then spray them with hair spray prior to reinstall and tight adequately.

Obviously clamps or boots that are showing cracks or wear should be replaced but you can probably seal it all with cheap hair spray.

 

[Bob4x4]

I would repair every leak that you can find,any leak can cost you higher egt's and some performance.I have never had to resort to using hairspray in any application

 

[promisedland]

Never thought of hair spray... guess its holds stuff in place, even rubbers!

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

Thanks for the pain lol!!

Never thought of hair spray... guess its holds stuff in place, even rubbers!

Do you have any idea how bad it hurts when beer comes out of your nose when you read a post like this?? :-laf:-laf

 

[ranger 393]

Did you try cleaning the blades with brake cleaner?

 

[brods]

I left the turbo alone since I couldn't find any recommendations for cleaning the vanes and because it doesn't look any worse than it did at 70K miles. Seems Europe has plenty of turbo cleaning spray products #ad


This site recommends changing the oil supply line after 100K miles but nothing about cleaning the blades. http://www.turborepair.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=202&Itemid=154

For the boost leaks I will let sleeping dogs lie until there is time for the truck to be down while parts are sourced. Given the white corrosion that needed to be removed from under the turbo inlet connection my guess is the simple boot reseal job will snowball into a total turbo to block intake redo. It will be one more thing added to the to do list, like the HVAC doors, etc. Thanks for the imput guys.

 

[petersonj]

For the boost leaks I will let sleeping dogs lie

Did you mean you "will let the seeping dogs lie"?

- John

 

[Bob4x4]

By not repairing the leaks you will have higher egts and lower performance. You may not see tangible proof till you hook up to a load. Tighten the clamps will be all you need on the hose connection leaks as long as the hoses are sound