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Boost leaks: when to fix?

drive shaft damper

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promisedland

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Hi gang! I started with a 2-tone turbo after i had my valves adjusted, at 14+ # boost my turbo howls! A deeper tone then normal turbo whistle. So i was advised to check for a boost leak. I can easily get 30 psi as of now so it seems ok. But i'll check. My question is about the intake mani side of the eng.,, do i just plug the last boost tube at the intake elbow? Do i plate the base of the elbow? I have read of turning the eng. to TDC, but i'm not sure how thats done.....
Here is a pic of my 'home' make tester :D Used a pc of exh pipe, then make a valve/gauge thingy so i can use for other things.... ;)
0514161507b_zpsutle4wqc.jpg


0514161507b_zpsutle4wqc.jpg
 
So then listen for leaks and/or spray with soap water as air runs through the engine? I will need a 'real' regulator then....
 
Sticking a plate under the elbow is a good idea. Unless you back off all the intake rockers, I don't think there's any time they're all closed at once. I would put a regulator in before the ball valve. Start at zero and dial it up- just to have control of the situation.
 
do not put a block under the elbow-you will be missing out on a lot of potential leak areas,such as the elbow gaskets,grid heater and intake plate.
 
You will get some leakage through the valves and rings. Just pressurize and spray soapy water on every fitting and hose.
 
I dunno, I guess I'm used to gas engines with larger valve events. Wouldn't there be chances of a cylinder in overlap? In other words, if he did bring 1 on TDC, 6 will be in overlap (or vice versa) and would just pass air. Bob you're right. Our 6.7's in our sweepers rot out the intake plate. A lot.
 
do not worry about plate or tdc, use a regulator before the valve and we found we needed to modify the the end of the tube to keep the hose from slipping off, we used plastic so it was easy enough to cut groves, you will need to weld a bead around the tube and weld a safety chain to it also, if the hose is 4 inches in diameter at 15 psi you have 600 pounds push against the plug
 
600#!!! wow! :--) I just tested and had her up to 20psi!..... Didnt pop. I stuck my tester in at my 'cool-hose' up at the filter, because it's easy to get there.
I found a clamp on the drivers side wasnt seated properly... The 2nd clamp leaving the intercooler. Shop didnt do it right when they replaced my trans cooler, [OEM] Grrr!
So when i whistle my way to work in the morn, i"ll find a reason to crank it up! Hopefully no 2tone turbo sounds. Thanks guys! :)

As in whistle; i mean whistle! My Tater turbo sounds like a Cheetah and i just HAVE to crank my pass. window down so i can hear......:cool:
 
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Glad you got it fixed. CKelly has a very good point, safety first. Not sure where the 600lb number comes from. The force trying to blow off a 4" adaptor at 15 psi = 188 lbs. At 20 psi = 250 lbs. Still nothing to take lightly, especially if the adaptor is a heavy metal assembly.
 
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