My two cents on the steering shaft topic. I ordered the shaft you're considering, mounted it up, and test drove my truck. No appreciable difference, so I took that puppy off, put it back in its bubble pack and box, and sent it back to the sender.
I drove my truck to the dealership and they installed, free of charge, a new intermediate steering shaft. The new Dodge shaft is much stout er than the original. Every bit as beefed-up as the after market offerings. I'd consider this route, first, if I were you. You may find yourself saving a lot of money and aggravation. Also, if you stick with Dodge parts, it makes your dealer that much more ready to help you if your steering problems persist. Mine continued "tweaking" things, fiddling with the steering box, and making other adjustments until the truck drove right.
Sometimes (not always, granted) dealers become jaundiced when owners drive in with all sorts of non-factory equipment (new, larger tires/wheels, shocks, links, lifted-truck, etc. ) and proceed to *****, bitterly, about the handling and steering of their truck. I know all about the "Magnuson (sp?) Act," but you gotta sympathize with the dealer, in some cases, when these trucks are rolled into his bays and he's told to "fix the problem" with the steering.
I'd try to persuade the dealer to install a new steering shaft (warranty) before trying the after market shafts.
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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake.