Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Bought new crank seal- install?

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I bought a new crank seal for my '98 12v and when it came there was an extra piece. Last time I installed one the seal was by itself other than the plastic installation tool, but this time in addition to that there is a rubber ring about the same diameter of the crank seal. The ring is basically a thin metal ring encased in rubber.



Also unlike last time, it has no instructions with it. I ordered PN 3804899



Vaughn

 

[KAlder]

I believe the ring is for a different application. I have one sitting on the shelf that has the seal,instructions, the metal seal starter ring, the plastic guide for the crank snout,and that other little seal. When I worked at the dealership in town here, I never saw any TSB's or any service manual updates regarding the little black seal. It always found a home in the round file.

 

[WDaniels]

KAlder is correct. The other metal part is not for our application. The only thing I can think of is that Chrysler does not make this(Duh) and that there is another application that uses this seal. I have done 4 of these seals and at first it drove me nuts trying to figure out the extra part.

WD

 

[bgilbert]

That there is called a 'dust shield'. Use it, it don't hurt nothing, you paid money for it. Many say they thrash it, but I don't see why one wouldn't use it, I used it.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Thanks guys. Here is a pic of it. Does it slide on the crank end after the seal is installed and the timing cover is back in place?



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[KAlder]

Toss it bud, you don't need it. here's the newest service manual instructions:

INSTALLATION

1. Lubricate the front gear train with clean engine oil.

2. Thoroughly clean the front seal area of the crankshaft. The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to prevent seal leaks.

3. Apply a bead of Loctite 277 to the outside diameter of the seal.

4. Install the seal into the rear of the cover using a plastic hammer and the alignment/installation tool provided in the seal kit to prevent damage to the seal carrier, hit the alignment/installation tool alternately at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions.

5. Install the pilot from the seal kit onto the crankshaft.

6. Using the pilot as an alignment tool, install the cover and a new gasket.

7. Install the cover bolts and tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs. ) torque. Remove pilot tool.

8. Install the oil fill tube and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs. ) torque.

9. Install the vibration damper. DO NOT tighten the bolts to the correct torque value at this time.

10. Install the belt tensioner. Tighten the mounting bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs. ) torque.

11. Raise the belt tensioner to install the belt.

12. Tighten the vibration damper bolts to 125 N·m (92 ft. lbs. ) torque. Use an engine barring tool to keep the engine from rotating during tightening operation.

13. Install the fan drive assembly.

this is obviously w/ the front cover pulled.

 

[MLee]

Cummins includes this part in there replacement kit, its a dust shield. Its your choice wheather to use it or not . It just pushes on after install of the cover, and won't hurt anything. Just more protection

 

[bgilbert]

4. Install the seal into the rear of the cover using a plastic hammer and the alignment/installation tool provided in the seal kit to prevent damage to the seal carrier, hit the alignment/installation tool alternately at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions.

Install the seal into the front of the cover.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I ended up installing the seal without the dust cover. The metal driver ring for installing the seal is completely useless as well. How about leaving these two items out of the kit and saving us a couple bucks Cummins?



The plastic alignment tool for getting the seal over the end of the crank is a valuable piece however!



Vaughn

 

[KAlder]

Install the seal into the front of the cover.

I agree, I just copied the text directly out of chrysler service manual. Just for the point that they don't specify installing the dust seal. The front crank seal has one of the tightest interferance fits that I have seen- man that sucker can be a bear sometimes #@$%!

 

[Dieseldemon]

The metal ring you are talking about is to set the depth of the seal

 

[dpuckett]

Yeah, I agree, they can be hard to get started, but you need the (bigger) metal piece to get the depth even. Otherwise you run the risk of getting te seal in crooked, and possibly leaking worse than before. Unless it is going into my Mom's truck- change the filter every 5K- oil gets spit out about every 6K.



Daniel

 

[Rattler]

I had just bought a rear main seal and was surprised that the directions call for the seal to be completely dry on install, no oil. Randy

 

[WDimig]

good thing you did not use it!!! it causes more harm than good, it traps more dirt behind the damn thing! i dont install them at work, just put the seal on with the plastic sleeve, and your good to go!.



wes

 

[RCarrillo]

Front Crank Seal

:{ I had all my seals replaced by a dodge dealer two years ago as I didn't have time as I work offshore and the total was $4,200 !!!! Anyway they said the crank was scored in front so they put a wear sleeve on it and it still leaks.

So I ordered a seal kit but I would assume it will take a larger seal, does any have any info on this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks



Rikario, New member

 

[KAlder]

RCarrillo, no the "speedy sleeve" they put on is very thin and the seal will stretch that much to fit. But the little plastic installation tool won't. It just takes a little more finesse.