2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bouncey ride

[LHepplestone]

Oo. I have a 2001 quad cab long bed 2500 ram 4x4 with a Cummins and an automatic. I have had slight a bouncy ride for a long time. Now it is getting worse. It feels like the rear end of the truck is bouncing. It doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes when I brake but not every time. Brakes are new. Usually get it at 40mph then it goes away and comes back at 50. A couple of weeks ago I had it loaded with wood. It was sitting down in the rear pretty low. I couldn't get over 50mph it was bouncing so bad. This tells me it is in the drive line. Someone told me it was the universal joints in the rear drive shaft. I checked them and they seem solid. Anyone have any other suggestions?



Thanks, Lee in Cleveland OhioOo.

 

[jelag]

I've had rear u-joints act up... and tested them and thought they were fine... We pulled the drive line and found them bad... 2 things key me into this... 1 - more weight it gets worse... . 2 - with the bed lower, the angle changes and now your changing the position of the needles in the housing and it could be on a rough spot... . or dry and one or more of the needles has turned to dust...

 

[LHepplestone]

Thanks, for the fast answer. I'll buy u-joints this weekend. Is there an easy way to get them out? I don't have a press or is that the only way.

Also thanks for buying all the Chrysler products. Two Rams and a Cherokee. I work for Chrysler at the Twinsburg Ohio stamping plant. You may just help me keep my job for a little longer. I can get you or anyone an employee price on new Chrysler products. No haggling or dealing over that diesel Ram. The employee price is the lowest price you can get. It's right on the invoice. Plus you get all the rebates or dealer money.



Thanks again, Lee

 

[JApol]

How old are the shocks?

 

[Joe Mc]

Check the rear axel bearing pre-load. You'll need two new wedges for the nuts. I'm recalling the pre-load is set as follows: jack up and place stands under housing, remove axels, remove nut to tube wedge, loosen bearing nut, torque to 120 - 140 ft. lb. then back off 1/8 turn or unitl 0. 001" play is obtained, install "new" wedges.



I had a bearing that was so loose it made the whole truck bounce, funny thing it seemed like the bounce was in the front? I chased balance issues for a very long time, speed balanced, balance beads, then on to centramatics to find a loose rear wheel bearing - Go figure.

 

[LHepplestone]

Yes I do need shocks they are the originals, 96000 miles. Thanks, Lee

 

[16919]

Thanks, for the fast answer. I'll buy u-joints this weekend. Is there an easy way to get them out? I don't have a press or is that the only way.
Also thanks for buying all the Chrysler products. Two Rams and a Cherokee. I work for Chrysler at the Twinsburg Ohio stamping plant. You may just help me keep my job for a little longer. I can get you or anyone an employee price on new Chrysler products. No haggling or dealing over that diesel Ram. The employee price is the lowest price you can get. It's right on the invoice. Plus you get all the rebates or dealer money.

Thanks again, Lee

I think everyone here on this site will do their part in making sure you still have a job!

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Thanks for the offer, Lee. I'll be in the market for a new Dodge diesel - in about 10 years. :-laf That's when my baby girl will inherit mine and Daddy can upgrade. The way you guys build 'em it WILL still be running and parked next to Mom's Jeep. Keep the Mopar star shinin' keep up the great work!