Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Braided Fuel Lines

[onesloryd]

I know this has talk about a lot and I have done several searches. I am looking for a set prefabricated ss braided lines and fittings that run from the tank to the injection pump.

 

[Whitmore]

In my oppinion the braided line is just a little fancier looking and adds no extras that I can see, it costs 8 bucks a foot for #6 line (1/2") or you can buy # push lock hose for less than half that , it is also 1/2" ID as well , I have the hose from the tank to the filter and the braided from the filter to the VP, unless it a looks thing for you than just go with the pushlock hose.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Sticks]

Braided lines only do you good if you are running high pressure through the lines, i. e. brakes. It keeps the hose from expanding under the pressure. It also will help protect the hose against abrasions.



If you get chrome plated, it will make you go faster



Sticks

 

[onesloryd]

I thought that the braided lines where a better option than the Ray's Banjo Bolts?

 

[Rob Thomas]

I believe your looking for "weber fittings", to replace the banjo's, whichever line/hose you use makes no difference to the fittings. Call Doug @ www.smokindiesel.com he has the webers your looking for.



Later, Rob

 

[onesloryd]

Is the pressure and temperature low enough to use Aeroquip push-loc line?

My main concern is the flow.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Yes.

 

[Hohn]

I am confused. Does "Weber" fitting mean "AN" fitting? I would assume these both refer to the 37° flared tubing fitting.



Anyway, the barb-style "socketless" hoses are made by all the big guys now-- Aeroquip, Earl's, and Russell.



Braided stainless has big advantages in key areas-- they are almost indestructible, and they will never leak if properly assembled. It's a PERMANENT line. Think of it more as flexible hardline.



I think that Rob is giving good advice. The socketless, barb-style fittings don't care about the line, as long as it doesn't leak. Replacing the banjo bolts with these relieves a LOT of restriction. The socketless should give you the advantage of the AN style fittings while being cheaper than braided stainless.



BTW-- I went with braided stainless on my Fuel Press gauge install only because they don't make socketless in a -04 size. Smallest I saw was -06.



I would run -08 fuel lines. 1/2" ID line will supply all the fuel you will ever need.



HOHN

 

[Jim Fulmer]

onesloryd



I don't know what your driving... . no sig! I could then send you to the right direction, but I will guess.



Full system tank to pump for everyday use to replace the stock stuff without breaking the bank www.smokindiesel.com talk to Doug.



Stand alone aux system for sled pulling, drag racing or when lots of fuel is needed and your going to leave the stock system alone http://www.haisleymachine.com/



Jim

 

[onesloryd]

Hohn,

When I build something I usually use SS braided line, but since sticks, "If you get chrome plated, it will make you go faster" I thought the no one is using the ss braided and going with the push-style lines.

Jim,

I have added my sig, no big horse power here.

 

[Hohn]

onesloryd:



I would go ahead and fab the lines myself, either braided SS or barb-style. It's an easy way to save yourself some $$.



Hohn

 

[Sticks]

onesloryd

When I build something I usually use SS braided line, but since sticks, "If you get chrome plated, it will make you go faster" I thought the no one is using the ss braided and going with the push-style lines.

Sorry, I meant no offense. Just sarcastic opinion. If braided line is what you use, and you are good at it, go with it.



Sticks

 

[onesloryd]

Sticks,

I have not been on the TDR site for some time and noticed that just replacing banjo bolts is not the best way to go. So when commented about the braided line I thought that there is a new and better way to upgrade the fuel system. I just like to do things once and I did not take offense to your comment.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

the fittings you need are a -6AN male to 12mmX1. 5mm pitch male adapter.



you need 4 to eliminate the bajos between the LP and the VP44.



I do this for most customers wanting a FP gauge.



I use 4 90* m-f -6 fittings, 6 -6 straight push-lock ends, 1 -6 male 't' a -6 to #2 pushlock adapter, a #2 straight connector, a #2 to 1/8 npt fitting, a 1/8 npt union (for the gauge itself)



you will need about 2' of the -6 sized hose and 6' of the #2 hose.



here are the parts I use that are available from summit.



earls...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=26808



aeroquip



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=13612



I get everything but the hose from A-Z Hydraulic here in FT Worth. Any hose and fitting shop should be able to supply these parts. The weber fittings are rather specialized.



The stock LP is more than adiquate once the banjos go away. One of the common failures is the overflow valve going bad. I believe increasing the oraface and hose sizes prevents or at least postpones this failure method.



I have not changed my fittings between the lp and tank but have been contemplating it. So far I have no FP problems so it has not been a priority.



FWIW,

Mark