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Brake/ABS intermittant Warning Light-Help Please

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At idle and at any time while idleing, my brake warning light and ABS warning lights will come on together. When I take her off idle, the lights go out. Can someone please tell me how to fix this annoying condition?

Much Thanks,

RamBill
 
Could be low vacuum, there are three switches connected to the brake warning lamp; parking brake, pressure differential switch, and low brake booster vacuum. The low vacuum switch is activated if the vacuum falls below 8. 5 inches for more than 10 seconds. As the vacuum pump is engine driven, I would suspect this could be the problem. Hopefully it would only be a leak and not the pump giving out.
The antilock lamp is another matter, which from consulting the manual, could be for numerous reasons, you would have to retrieve the fault code to be able to identify the problem, but however fault #11 has to do with the brake pedal swith, and if you are having a vacuum problem, the pedal may be droping slightly and tripping the switch. To clear the fault from the antilock control module just disconnect the battery or alternately unplug the module for 30 seconds.
Hope this will help you, if you wish to retrieve the fault codes email me at the link bellow.

Neil #ad



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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca
 
My 91 was doing the same thing. At idle, the Brake and Anti Lock lights would come on and would go back out when a little throttle was applied. I found a small vacuum leak on the hose which feeds into the heater box at the firewall junction. Apearantly the vacuum pump would not supply enough vacuum at idle to overcome the small vacuum leak I had. The first place I would look is your vacuum hoses. Disconnect and plug at the brake booster and see if your problem goes away.

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, K&N, straight piped, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K and still going. 91 W-250 5 speed, 4. 10 Limited slip, 16cm2, 6" Skyjacker lift, RS9000, Dump bed, 18K original mi.
 
My anti-lock light is always on... My dad and I replaced the sensor, the light went away for a month... now it's always on
 
Mine had the same symptoms. Turned out to be the brake booster. It had a leak internally. As it got worse, the brakes started being affected. Replaced the booster and master cylinder at the same time. If you do this, watch the rod length between the booster and master cylinder. Mine was not adjusted right and ended up screwing up the rotors in the front cause it was not letting the brakes release all the way and they got hot & warped.

Hope this helps.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, new 40-20-40 bucket seats, 149K

[This message has been edited by paccool (edited 01-12-2001). ]
 
I had problems with the two lights soon after I bought my truck in 1996. Sitting at traffic lights and holding the vehicle stationery with the brakes, after a few seconds the lights would be on.
Had the brake booster diraphagm replaced, no more problems with the lights.


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Ian.

'93 D250 ext. cab. Upgraded injectors, 3. 5" exhaust, K & N filter, Xmsn oil cooler and fan, 4 gauge mount, mirror tubes reversed, RACOR fuel filter, larger transmission oil pan.
 
A strange thing happened to me in my '89 today. After starting the truck this morning, the "Antilock" and "Brake" lights stayed on, I also noticed the heater blower motor, power windows, turn signals, and radio would not work either. After I shut down the engine and re started it, everthing worked fine again. This problem first occurred almost six years ago, on my way home from where I purchased the truck used. The problem went away for over five years now, and is just now comming back again. Possibly a bad ignition switch? Maybe I have some arc'd contacts in the switch that intermittantly don't have electrical continuity? I already had to jury rig the circut for the power windows and blower motor because it quit working last summer. I installed a relay to power the bus to fuses #2 and #3 which is commanded on by the bus for fuses #4, 5, & 6. Maybe I've got another pole on its way out in the ignition switch? It looks like I will have to bite the bullet and change out the ignition switch. That thing looks like a S. O. B. to get to.

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, K&N, straight piped, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K and still going. 91 W-250 5 speed, 4. 10 Limited slip, 16cm2, 6" Skyjacker lift, RS9000, Dump bed, 18K original mi.
 
Hey DJP!!
I just had the same problem happen to me in my 92' contractors dump. This is going to sound stupid, but check the fuse for the turn signals. In the service manual, after hours of reading, I found that if that fuse does not make contact, your brake warning lights will come on, and stay on. All I had to do was un-hook the battery of course, and then use a screw driver to tighten-up the connectors for the fuse. Hope this helps.

Russell

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually (All quiet for now)
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5" exhaust(don't ask)
 
Russell,
When you mentioned using a screw driver to tighten up the connectors to the fuse, Do you mean bending the contacts in the fuse recepticle so they will contact the spades on the fuse a little tighter? Interesting, I'm going to take a look at this tomorrow.
Thanks for the tip!

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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, K&N, straight piped, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K and still going. 91 W-250 5 speed, 4. 10 Limited slip, 16cm2, 6" Skyjacker lift, RS9000, Dump bed, 18K original mi.
 
DJP,
That is exactally what I did, and it worked. I hope that I am not the only one on here with trucks that keep me busy with "interesting" problems. Only way I found out was bumping the fuse and watching the light.

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually (All quiet for now)
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5" exhaust(don't ask)
 
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