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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake calipers

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Smarty Stack With TS Performance MVP

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission AmI running operating temp to cool???

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I posted a little while ago asking about the best brake rotors and thanks for the info. Tonight I went to replace the brake shoes and found out that the caliper pistons were cracked. So I stopped right there and reassembled the truck. Know I am in the market for rotors and calipers. It would be nice to upgrade my entire braking system ie. rotors, calipers, and possibly steel braded brake lines. Who sells this as a kit. Any help is appreciated



Chris
 
Chris,



You need to either fill out your signature or tell us the model and year of your truck for more accurate help. Mileage and any other problems would be nice to know too... .



I'm assuming when you say "shoes" you are referring to the "pads" in the calipers on the front end?



The "shoes" would be on the rear if you have drum brakes (pre 2001. 5).



If you have a 2001. 5 or 2002 you have "pads" and rotors on all four corners.



Also a picture of the cracked caliper piston? Was it badly corroded too?







Regards,



AJ
 
I have a stock 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Ext. Cab 4x4 about 72,000 miles. The pads on the front are what I was replacing. The rear brakes are drum. The front pads were changed 10,000 miles ago when I bought the truck. I do not drive the truck every day so it has taken me 2 years to get 10,000 mile on the truck. The rotors a warped and cracked so I know they need replaced. I am a Professional Firefighter and was called into work for a working structure fire on the way in I heated the rotors pretty badly to the point I could smell them. The pistons on the calipers are corroded and cracked enough for me to replace them. As far as picture I'll try
 
Brake kits

EGR sells all the parts you need as a "kit".



However

You have other options.

Any good brake supplier can sell you good quality calipers and rotors.

The stainless lines will need to be purchased from an offroad supplier or EGR.



I hope the helps.

PM me if you have single piston front calipers.
 
C. Beard.

Ypu said that you just had 10,000 miles on the pads,? Did or was the rotors turn at that time? Every time you change pad they should be turn. When I was younger and need to save money. I though that you did a brake job by changing shoes. NOT. The rotors will warp if you dont do it every time. LFJ
 
I would just get loaded calipers from Napa. I do that for my Jeep. Not sure on our trucks, but the Jeep calipers are fairly cheap, and it seems when I just change the pads, the calipers crap out not too long after and kill the nearly new shoes
 
the napa calipers are junk, the slide pins & rubbers are not the same size as oem. the calipers hangs up. use to use napa calipers & ball joints, but got sick of all the come-backs. i now use dorman (HELP) calipers. all parts are brand new and they retail for about $72. 00 a side. part #'s CA10115L & CA10115R. fits 94 to 99



scot
 
I order my rotors today. I went with the power slots. I am going to change the brake fluid when I get my calipers. What is the quickest and easiest way to get all of the brake fluid out of the system?
 
CBeard said:
I order my rotors today. I went with the power slots. I am going to change the brake fluid when I get my calipers. What is the quickest and easiest way to get all of the brake fluid out of the system?



Pressure bleeder... It is a good investment if you do your own maintenance. Makes the job real easy.



AJ
 
Been running NAPA calipers for almost 100,000 now and no problems..... Even with the rotors that I replaced at the same time and got warped by standing water not even a month later.



Has anyone used the slotted/drilled rotors Summit has on their website?
 
I was wanting to replace my calipers with 4 piston calipers and particularly red since my pickup is red, does EGR offer these and what does EGR stand for???
 
To my knowledge, EGR is the only company that manufactures "blue printed" calipers. They are just remanufactured calipers held to specific tolerances. Unfortunately no aftermarket company makes two piston calipers for our trucks. Plenty of companies make multi piston calipers for 1500s. I can't figure out for the life of me why nobody makes them for 2500s or 3500s. I have read that 2000 to 2002 trucks have the ability to upgrade to 1010 brakes with a 2010 knuckle out swap. I am putting ford knuckles in my truck, so I can have lock out / free spin hubs and ford two piston calipers.



Also, you do not need to have your rotors turned every time you install new pads. If your steering wheel is not shaking when you hit your brakes don't cut them. All you need to do is scuff them with some sand paper of emery cloth. Just remove the glaze. Now that said, it wouldn't hurt to put a mic on them to assure they are in specification. Hope this helps some. Good luck.
 
What I did

I order my rotors today. I went with the power slots. I am going to change the brake fluid when I get my calipers. What is the quickest and easiest way to get all of the brake fluid out of the system?



When I changed my fluid I sucked the old out, then fill with new. One at a time opened the bleeder, with clear hose, watched the fluid until it turned clear, keep an eye on the master cyl. Takes a little whale but works well. I bleed my brakes that way also.



Floyd
 
I have been running EGR calipers, pads, shoes, braided and rigid lines for years and couldn’t be happier with their equipment. They do sell a complete kit for the front. They are pricey, but well worth it IMO.
 
Last year around the 127K mileage mark I replaced my entire braking system with top-of-the-line Raybestos parts (slotted rotors, matched pad, new pistons & seals, etc... and replaced old brake fluid). Once they were heat-cycled properly, WOW, what a difference! I even towed a heavier-than-normal load with the new brakes (around 18K pounds) and they worked superbly. I now have over 134K miles on the truck, and all wear is nice and even. Well worth the cost, I highly recommend Raybestos brake products (can be obtained through Carquest & other outlets).

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Last year around the 127K mileage mark I replaced my entire braking system with top-of-the-line Raybestos parts (slotted rotors, matched pad, new pistons & seals, etc... and replaced old brake fluid). Once they were heat-cycled properly, WOW, what a difference! I even towed a heavier-than-normal load with the new brakes (around 18K pounds) and they worked superbly. I now have over 134K miles on the truck, and all wear is nice and even. Well worth the cost, I highly recommend Raybestos brake products (can be obtained through Carquest & other outlets).



#ad



I just did this upgrade to my 97 after warping my power slot cross drilled rotors. Best brake performance I have ever had on either truck in the last 600,000 miles. I was skeptic, but it was only a few more bucks so the risk was low.
 
I'm glad that I'm not the only one enjoying the benefits of the top-of-the-line Raybestos products; my company runs them in our fleet cars and we are noticing a HUGE difference in braking abilities & longer pad/rotor life in a short amount of time.
 
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