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Brake Controlers - Which Type?

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My Father in Law recently bought a tandem axle utility trailer big enough to fit his John Deere 2510 on. He will rarely pull the tractor (or anyting that heavy) but he will be using it for other farm related work.



What are the merits of the different types of controlers (pendulum, timed, brake lever cable, etc)?



Thanks!
 
Jordan and Prodigy are the best brake controls. The Jordan has an actuator cable that attaches to the brake peddle. It takes about 20 minutes to mount it but the Jordan works a little better. I had both and prefer the Jordan. The Jordan readout is actual current draw. The Prodigy readout is voltage output from the control. Current is more definative and useful for troubleshooting the brake circuit. Jordan has 2 adjustments - the cable and the output. Prodigy also has 2 - initial output and boost. Both units take the same amount of total time to install and find the best settings. Jordan is about $145 and Prodigy is about $135. Get one of these controls - both make any others look like stoneage junk! Craig
 
Yeah I have one of the stone age junk. I bought a pendulum type from summit. I was in a pinch and needed one for a weekend ahead of me. The only thing I can say good about it is it works. I can feel the trailer braking behind me. I have slid the controls back and forth and couldn't feel any difference
 
Timed controllers suck (IMHO) and I guarantee you'll be continuously adjusting it. Also, in an emergency it wont apply any more braking power than during a normal stop.
 
I have a Jordan that replaced a Drawtight II which was a piece of junk. I wouldn't trade the Jordan for anything. Just completed a 2000 mi trip to Fla and back with a 26ft TT and it worked great under all conditions, especially when that idiot pulled out in front of me. :mad: Smooth stop with no slipping or sliding. :)
 
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I have to agree with the Jordon. I have tried several. The Jordon is as close to the old system that "T"ed into the brake line.



I was amazed with the difference. at first I thought it was not working because I could not feel the trailer trying to run me over when I first hit the brakes, and that constant bang as the trailer brakes finaly came on. Then I relized, the trailer brakes were working the same time and amount as when I pushed the brake pedel. What a novel idea!



Anytime I help a buddy start into RVing, I tell him to spend the extra money and buy a Jordon, and Mckesh mirrors over those clip on thing-a-mabobs, not one has been sorry yet!
 
I've used all three types of brake controllers towing heavy 5th wheels: time-ramped (Reese Brakeman I), inertial (Tekonsha Sentinel) and proportional (Jordan Ultima 2020). Having used the Jordan, I'd never go back to the others. Being able to have actual direct control over trailer braking with your right foot under all road and traffic conditions - what you want is what you get - is the only way to fly. :D



All the above, of course, is IMHO... . :rolleyes:



Rusty
 
I installed a Jordan before I pulled my TT in '02. It has worked flawlessly and has been the best controller I've used. I've tried the time based:( , and I've owned one that attached to the brake pedal that you rock to apply the brakes(worked good on auto truck with wide brake pedal, but too wide for manual trans brake pedal). I like the readout of the Jordan, and I like the fact that I can disconnect the actuator cable from the brake pedal in about 30 seconds when I'm not going to tow for awhile(keep from wearing out the controller when not in use). I've also heard good things about the Tekonsha Prodigy.
 
The digital proportional design works well for me. I have a RedNeck Trailer Badged model that looks like the Tekonsha Prodigy in the pictures. Anyway whoever makes it I am very pleased with it. It is designed for up to 4 axles. I normally haul under 10k bumper pull. But I have hauled 20K and 27K (gooseneck) using the same controller. By the way those digital readouts that they are called variable voltage levels are really a measure of varying current levels. Then converted into a voltage reading. I have doubts about those "voltage" numbers being real.
 
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