Brake controller wiring

[DGamelin]

My truck has the built in brake controller. But it doesn't work on the electric over hydraulic setting. So I am putting in a back up. What I am looking for is the brake light switch has 3 wires 2 of them are the same color, I have for got the colors. I think the 2 alike are green/brown stripe. Has any one figured out witch one you want?

 

[jhenderson]

Doesn't work at all, or doesn't work as you would like? If not at all it's surely a warranty item.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Something is wrong if it doesn't work in E over H mode. Either the trailer is not wired correctly or your truck needs warranty work.

Mine and many others work just fine in E over H.

 

[RustyJC]

With the rig in my signature, electric over hydraulic, heavy, with a gain setting of 6.0 gives all the braking I want. If I were you, I'd find the problem rather than patch in a kluge.

Rusty

 

[DGamelin]

No they didn't work at all.

They are bran new trailers and they worked on my other trucks. The electric brakes work fine. The truck is out of warranty. I went to a Dodge dealer in TX on Friday, they said it showed a short in the module they couldn't get one until Monday and they had no idea if it would fix it. Well that is useless. I was 1250 miles from home I needed to be back by Sunday and I was towing about 21000 pounds, I had to have brakes. I went and bought a brake controler a cigaret liter adapter and a roll of wire I didn't want to cut nothing on the truck because I thought it still had a warranty. I just ran the brakes by hand. This was to get it home. I am not going to start throwing parts at it until they figure it out. Besides if it isn't any more reliable then that I want a back up. It will also be nice when I am towing tandem trailers I will be abele to set the breaks different then the front trailer. Usually the rear trailer is empty so it skids the tires and flat spots them when on a one system.

When the chevy's came out whit this set up it didn't work either. We had a costumer tell us he couldn't make it work on his 2015 Dodge.

I am in the shop now the wires are 2 green with brown stripe and one green with yellow stripe. The brown stripe in the center is the hot one. I am going to start tracing them down now, I was hoping that some one had already dealt with this and found the right wire.

 

[Newsa]

You're not using a 7 pin to 6 pin adapter?

I had to rewire my adapter.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Just go buy a Prodigy P-3 and plug it in.

 

[DGamelin]

No adapters
I couldn't get myself to cut the the wires. The more I things I tested the more things I found that could lead to trouble because of the stock brake system is so intergraded in the hole truck. So I am going to mount a 2ed brake light stitch. The only good place I found for that wire was at the rear bumper. The up-fitter schematic has a wire back there for a brake light on top of a cap or what ever. It is an end use wire so feed back shouldn't be a proublem. But then I would have to run the wire from the back to front just to activate the controller. I sure do like those auxiliary switches I will be able to shut off the 2ed system when not in use. I had to wire in a auto reset circuit breaker in place of a fuse in that auxiliary box, that was tight. I didn't have the socket in stock for the rear so I will have to finish it later. Thanks anyways guys.

I am putting in a PP3.

 

[DGamelin]

I thought I would let you know.
I was talking with the dealer and they tell me that 2015 never had electric over hydraulic installed. It is a program that has to be down loaded into the truck for $700. I was lead to believe my truck already had this in it. The literature, dodge website all said it was there with the integrated brakes. Considering what this truck cost and how it was ordered to be a tow monster for a business "the dealer knowing". They even showed me where to find it on the screen. I think this is a lowlife thing to pull and dodge don't really care. As far as I am concerned I already paid for this, so it is just one more system that failed.

 

[RClark]

My 2015 came with the controler. it works fine and tell me if the trailer is hooked up or not.My Automate has disk brakes so I run heavy electric over hydraulic at 5.5

 

[jhenderson]

I thought I would let you know.
I was talking with the dealer and they tell me that 2015 never had electric over hydraulic installed. It is a program that has to be down loaded into the truck for $700. I was lead to believe my truck already had this in it. The literature, dodge website all said it was there with the integrated brakes. Considering what this truck cost and how it was ordered to be a tow monster for a business "the dealer knowing". They even showed me where to find it on the screen. I think this is a lowlife thing to pull and dodge don't really care. As far as I am concerned I already paid for this, so it is just one more system that failed.[/QUOTE

Your dealer is the lowlife. It's installed on your 15 just like it is on mine and everyone else's. Go through the brake setup screen and select it.

 

[RustyJC]

My understanding is that the ability to select trailer brake types and trailer weights (e.g., electric over hydraulic; heavy) has been present on the integrated trailer brake controller from 2012 onward. It's reached by drilling into the vehicle settings screen on my 2016.

Rusty

 

[kthaxton]

My 2015 has it also....I've never selected electric over hydraulic, but it is there.

 

[SnoKing]

I switched my 2015 3500 SRW to E over H and my drum brakes are working better as some have suggested. It is amazing what some dealers will shovel out. SNOKING

 

[DGamelin]

Mine has all-ways had the selection on the screen and electric brakes trailers worked on any selection but not on the electric over hydraulic. Well maybe there just full of beans. Anyways I hope to find time next week to finish my 2ed controller.

 

[zmos]

I have my trailer controller max'ed out on +10 and it barley slows down my trailer. I read somewhere if the wiring on the trailer is to small a gauge it wont work properly. I must have read that here somewhere. Maybe that's the case with yours too..

 

[DGamelin]

It doesn't work like that on electric over hydraulic brakes. The power that runs the pump comes from the 12v hot on your plug and the wire that would normally power the brakes is used to run a rheostat inside the hydraulic pump controlling its speed, so low voltage wouldn't be the problem on something that doesn't work at all. Besides the customer who bought the trailer has no problems with it and it worked on my other truck. But thanks anyways.

 

[RustyJC]

It doesn't work like that on electric over hydraulic brakes. The power that runs the pump comes from the 12v hot on your plug and the wire that would normally power the brakes is used to run a rheostat inside the hydraulic pump controlling its speed, so low voltage wouldn't be the problem on something that doesn't work at all. Besides the customer who bought the trailer has no problems with it and it worked on my other truck. But thanks anyways.

Actually, the power to run the pump SHOULD come from the breakaway battery system on the trailer that's kept charged by the 12VDC hot on your Pollak 7-pin connector. The pump speed/pressure is a function of the trailer brake controller output.

Rusty

 

[SnoKing]

I believe there are E over H pumps that run both ways. Some get 12V from the trailers system plus the brake controller signal and others run only on the signal for the brake controller. SNOKING

 

[RustyJC]

I believe there are E over H pumps that run both ways. Some get 12V from the trailers system plus the brake controller signal and others run only on the signal for the brake controller. SNOKING

I seriously doubt it. The maximum output of the ITBC brake circuit seems to be around 120-140 watts based on my Google searches - 12 VDC x 10-12 amps - with many reporting much less output voltage (and, yes, I'm aware of pulse width modulation, or PWM used on this circuit. Those measuring 12VDC have duty cycles approaching 100%.) I doubt that wattage would be sufficient to run a hydraulic pump at the pressures required by electric-over-hydraulic trailer brakes. It would be easy enough to determine if the pump runs off the integrated trailer brake controller output signal. Just disconnect the negative battery cable at the trailer and pull the fuse to the 12VDC supply from the truck and then see if the brakes work.

Rusty