Brake drum removal problem

[Timinator]

I am going to upgrade my rear brake cylinders to the 1-ton parts, but I can't get the drums off. I suspect they are frozen/rusted at the axle. I applied some penetrant (Kroil) and some heat from a small propane torch and rapped with a mallet, but no-go. There are no clips on the lugs, or any other visible parts holding the drums on. The drums don't even wiggle a little bit. Any ideas?

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

[Dieselnerd]

Put it on jackstands, run the motor, put it in drive or gear to get the wheels spinning, step on the brakes. I saw this in an earlier post by someone, supposed to work good.

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, Auto, TST 230/605, Cat Test Pipe, Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, Rancho 9000's, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member. KDP 61,000 NM-WT

 

[Timinator]

That sounds like a good idea. Is that with the wheels removed? I assume so.
Thanks.

 

[radixr]

No, you need the wheels on for kinetic energy. I've done kinda the same thing execpt on a car. Loosened the lug nuts a little, got up some speed and slammed on the brakes.

If that doesn't work, remove the jack stands! #ad


[This message has been edited by radixr (edited 05-21-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

No, don't leave the wheels on when you try this method. Besides not helping loosen the drums in any way you are likely to damage your stud threads or the wheel holes. I have never tried the jack stand in gear method but I hear it works. My method has always been a sledge hammer, haven't cracked a drum yet, but always worry it might happen, the drums can get really stuck on there.

 

[BillGotthelf]

My 3500 was a bitc- to get the drums off-had to beat on the drivers side drum for 5 minutes before I could get them off-don't be afraid to really whack the suckers. I've never had any problems this way before.

 

[Deezul1]

I used to work in a brake shop and when faced with that problem we would smack the drum briskly at a 45 deg angle right on the corner, most times it will pop right off but some times it will take 3-4 whacks but it always worked.

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97 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, Ranch Hand front and rear. Gauges, EGT, Boost, fuel pressure, oil temp,indash CB, custom switch mount-6 switches BD brake extra fuel tank 45gal. Oh oh dang cat fell off, took the muff with it. Member NRA/USPSA

 

[sam peterson]

anytime you hit the drum anyplace except the lug bolt face you take a chance of warping it. You can use the double hammer method between the lug bolts. Hold a large hammer against the drum between the lug bolts and hit the hammer with a sledge. You won't slip and hit the lug bolts this way[if you are a good shot] After you get them removed don't forget to prepare them so they will come off easy next time. remember to use 1 1/16 cylinders for the upgrade.

[This message has been edited by sam peterson (edited 05-22-2001). ]

 

[BertM]

When mine were stuck, I made a gear puller for $5. 00 and it worked great. Take a piece of angle iron wider then the drum, three carriage bolts, ten nuts and two large fender type washers. Drill the center of the iron and insert 1 bolt with a nut on each side of the iron. Drill two outside holes in the iron with the edge of hole at edge of drum. Insert the bolts with a nut on each side of the iron, and a nut, washer, nut at the end. Adjust the length with the jamb nuts at the iron, and slip the washers behind the drum edge. The center bolt will center into the axle center punch. Start tightening the center bolt and the assembly will start pulling the drum. Usually it will get very tight and not move. Keep the pressure on it, and tap the drum with the hammer. Done.

 

[Extreme1]

Use an oxygen-acetylene (or MAP) torch. (Rust like that laughs at propane. ) Apply heat evenly (hard to do but do what you can) between the studs for a few minutes. The drums need to get pretty hot around the axle bore. Use a prybar between the drum and the backing plate. Strike the prybar with a BFH.

I just got one of mine off recently. Road salt is a wonderful thing, isn't it?

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'94 3500 4x4, 212,000 miles, Goerend Brothers Torque Convertor + VB Mods, TST #5 plate, 215's, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9k's w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil everything.
Punchlist: 14 cm Turbo Housing.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"I am my own performance station"

 

[LandShark]

I made a homemade puller for my drums and then beat on them with a BFH for an hour before they came off.

BTW: Don't forget to sand the drum / axle mating surface lightly with fine emory cloth after you get them off. Also use a bit of disk brake grease prior to reinstalling, and they will slide right off next time.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3600 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
111,000 miles and counting.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Tim,
Did you back off the brakes?
With brake adjuster.

 

[Timinator]

Thanks for the replies guys. I got called away on a trip to Virginia. I'll let you know how it works out.