Brake fluid change, per J. Anderson

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Just performed this item per Jim Anderson's instructions in the latest TDR issue. And a quart of Dot3 is what you'll need. I did the service on my truck and my Buddy's 95. I had to pull the two front bleeder plugs on my Buddy's and they were rusted pretty bad on the inside. This is an extremely easy service that I have never performed before - on any vehicle. The hope of all this verbage is that you'll make it a part of your maintenance.

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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"

 

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I agree 100%. In addition, every oil change I crack the front bleeders open to ensure that they don't freeze shut. The rear bleeders don't seem to rust up nearly as quickly as the fronts.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

 

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OK, time for some dumb questions, but I guess I good at that. How do you drain out the old brake fluid and replace with the new. Do you need any special tool, or just open the bleeders and pump away?? Can't get air in the line or you'll really have problems. Short and simple would be appreaciated. Thanks

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

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I have not read the article in the TDR yet. But I can tell you how I flush the brake fluid out. If you open the bleeder furthest away from the master cylinder first (RR) then remove the cap off the master cylinder. The system will begin to gravity bleed. That means it will run out by itself. After the right rear runs clear go to the left rear and then to the front wheels. Be sure to check your master cylinder often and keep it full of fluid, if you run it dry then you have alot more work ahead of you. There has been a time or two when the flow would not start by itself. So I gave it just slight pump on the pedal with the rear open and that began the process.


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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module.

 

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Two quick additions to the break fluid change comments. 1; use a suction gun or something like a turkey baster to change the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir before you start the drain process. 2; if you must pump the pedal rather than letting it gravity feed, you can slip a piece of vacuume hose over the bleeder after you loosen it and it starts to drain, place the open end in container (coke bottle) with enough break fluid to cover the open end of the hose and pump untill you get clear fluid. Since the open end of the hose is in fluid, you won't introduce air into the system when pumping the break pedal.

 

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Have any of you ever used the speedbleeder for changing your fluid. www.speedbleeder.com

This looks like it would make the job real easy.
Sam B

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

[Archive]

Have any of you ever used the speedbleeder for changing your fluid. www.speedbleeder.com

This looks like it would make the job real easy.
Sam B

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

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I've gotta tell ya, I've never in my life changed the brake fluid in any vehicle I've owned. After reading the article, just for giggles, I went out and popped the cap and inspected my brake fluid #ad
There's a big cloudy glob of trapped moisture floating around the reservoir. #ad
No wonder the brakes act goofy sometimes if you ear down on 'em pretty hard. NAPA sells a one man brake bleeder tool for about eight or nine bucks. Consists of a piece of tubing with a check valve in it. I plan on changing my fluid out tomorrow morning!

 

[Archive]

DOT3 is good for? 280 degrees F Wet boil and roughly 450 degrees F overall.
Non-organic brake pads operate around 600 degrees F.

Always use brake fluid from an UNOPENED container. That stuff sucks up moisture from the air after the seal is broken (yes even through the cap). For bleeding a brake system I start with the furthest cylinder/caliper. For flushing, I start with the closest, after draining the master and refilling as Moparguy described.

Speedbleeder? IMO Don't leave them installed after bleeding/purging. Check valves are subject to contamination & sticking. (We already know how hard the D/Cummins is to stop with <em>operating</em> brakes. )

I always rebuild the caliper or cylinder when doing a brake job. Also the springs are replaced on drum systems.

I waiting for my first TDR issue to hit the box. I guess we are last so any better deliver service is appreciated?

Cheers;
*JE*