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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake grab - getting severe

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) B--1 Turbo//what Injector ?????????????

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Intermittent Oil leak

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This has been going on for a couple of months now. It's definitely the rear brakes. Most noticeable when moving slow. The first couple of applications in the morning are the worst. I can be moving along in first gear and I can skid the rear tires. I used to think this was moisture, but I had a rear axle seal leak about 8 months ago. The service tech told me that they got everything cleaned up pretty well. Other than what I've mentioned, what could some other causes be. I've been extremely busy lately taking care of my wife (who just had surgery) and working my job and my business. I plan to pull the drums this weekend. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.



I've towed a couple of times and this problem has never occurred. Not sure what, if anything, that means.
 
Soiled lining from the leak, or "moisture expansion. " (damp brake lining). We have have relatives in a high humidity area of the Carolina's that complain of this first stop of the morning.



Its annoying to you it sounds, maybe when your wife needs less nursing, consider turning the drums and replacing the brake lining and brake hardware. Take a close look at the wheel cylinders.



Assure that the self adjusters are working and well lubricated etc. .



Just follow the fsm and you'll be fine.



Best of luck and hope your wife returns to better health soon.



Andy
 
could be a leaky brake cylinder (wheel). once the pads are wet it takes a while to burn all the fluid off. mine had the same thing, changed a bad wheel cylinder and cleaned up a few days later it was fine. hope this helps
 
Happens to me in the heavy rain if I park the truck and come out later. Being on the coast means the humidity is way up in the best of times, never mind while raining.
 
I would bet your real axle seal is leaking again. Many guys have had problems soon after replacing the seal. Good luck,

J
 
I'll find out for sure this weekend, but this problem had been occurring before I had that first leak. I had pulled the drums about 10 months ago when this grabbing only occurred occasionally and there was no leak. But like I said, I'll know for sure this weekend.
 
I have had the same problem on my 99 3500. I live on the Texas coast where humidity was invented and I do see the connection between the humidity and the grabbing. I have changed rear drums and shoes and still have the same issues. I have noticed that on the cooler days with lower humidity that its not as bad. I have never had a rear seal leak and the truck has 160,000. I have heard a bunch of folks say its just something you have to learn to live with. I make a joke that my brakes are more grabby than Arnold Schwarzenegger. If I come up with a fix I'll let you know.
 
Andy, the wife is doing fine and will be back to work in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the wishes. What is the best lubricant for drum brakes? I probably won't be changing the brakes this weekend... I just don't have the time. But I would like to clean and lube while I have the drums off.
 
John:



My favorites are the hi-temp anti-seeze lube sold by the EGR brake folks. I also like the "white" anti-seeze sold by Groit's (sp) Garage.



If nether are available, some synthetic brake grease sold at most auto parts chains usually works well.



Carefully pry the shoe out from the backing plate a little and dab a bit where it contacts the backing plate with a tiny screw driver, small steel ruler etc. .



You will likely have to remove the spring at the bottom of the shoes to wiggle the adjuster out. The better alternative might be moving the adjuster each way while in place. Clean it, then while its extended, lube it as you thread it closed/to its original position etc.



Easy with the brake clean, protect the likely now fragile wheel cylinder cups/seals or you'll have another trip inside the drum soon! :)



Good luck, Andy
 
Check your emergency brake cables. I replaced the brakes, all the hardware and the wheel cylinders. Still had the problem. Finally checked the cables and they were froze up. Replaced them and the problem went away.
 
Grabbing Brakes

I had this problem a couple of years ago after I hit a pot hole. I pulled the drum and used brake cleaner to clean it. After pulling the drum and cleaning it two more times I used some fine sandpaper and sandpapered the shoes some. Haven't had any problems since.

Harold
 
I finally got to pulling the drums. As I suspected, the shoes on the left rear and the drum were not cleaned as thoroughly as I was led to believe when I had my axle seal leak. I cleaned both sides with brake cleaner. On the left side I took some sandpaper to the shoes and the drum. It took a bit of doing as there was a layer of grease mixed with dirt. After a bit of time I got the drum looking shiny and the brake shoes looking normal. The grabbing is now gone, but my emergency brake does not work. I'm not sure about that one as I made no adjustments whatsoever while the drums were off. There was no new axle seal leak, either.
 
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John:



If the cable was attached to the shoes, then ck. the adjusters. You should hear some drag with the rear wheels in the air when rotating them. If not, you can tighten the adjusters equally on both side (count your clicks). Then I bet you get a higher pedal and some e-brake back. Is one of them broken? Trace there routing along the frame and into the cab for damage etc.



Good luck

Andy
 
Andy, you've kinda hit the nail on the head. I've been using the back up and slam the brake adjustment method. It is working. I've got the brakes where I like them, but the emergency brake is only marginally effective. It's really nice to brake and not skid, especially rolling up to the security check going to work. It's almost embarrassing to skid when you hit the brakes and are only going about 7 mph. :eek:
 
I have been thinking about this real hard and finally decided to try something else and it worked. Now I don't want any smart remarks..... like I said it worked. I decided to try and put new shoes on the rear again because I can't believe it can't be fixed. When we put the rear shoes on we just switched the primary and secondary shoe so that the short lining is toward the rear of the vehicle. It has worked great for a couple of weeks now and as far as I can tell the only thing that can come of it is that the shoes could wear a little faster being that you are stopping on a smaller friction area.
 
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