Archived brake line fitting

[PetesonM]

99' ram 2500 ctd Rear ABS only



Anybody know the brake line fitting sizes that can help me out? The lines are so bad i cant even compare them to anything after butching the fittings to get them out. The lines i need are



(1)from the ABS control to the rear brake juction block, two diff fitting sizes? bubble flair on abs side, double frair on other end line size? fitting size?

(2)from the distrubution (block proportion valve) to the front juction block on the frame for the front brakes? buble flair on one end and double flair on the other. this double is smaller than the other, what size? line size?



Thanks for any info.

 

[Denis]

I've bought Copper-Nickle brake lines from a company called Fed Hill. Fellow is very knowlegable, has plenty of fittings, and can rent you the flaring tools you need.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Fed Hill for parts..... http://fedhillusa.com/



These guys used to have prebent lines, but their online catalog doesn't show them anymore for the rear. Might could call and see if they will still make them for the rear..... http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/



These guys make a dang nice product for cars. They might could do something for the Dodge truck, too..... http://www.brakelines.com/



I have NOT used these guys, but they advertise that they can sell you upgraded brakes, rear disc conversions, and prebent hard lines... . I've been going to try them, but not needed to lately. They appear to be the best bet at getting new lines. They advertise that hard sets start at $219 on one ad ... http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm

 

[JR]

I was actually looking at a set of calipers from egr just the other day. Ive got a set from Napa and theyve stuck twice on me in the past year. The first time was no big deal I had only run right up the road a few miles, got out and noticed a warm brake smell. The 2nd time (last weekend) I had just turned onto the freeway and was up to speed a minute or 2 when the smell made its way through the heater vents. I immediately pulled over but too little too late my truck disappeared in a cloud of smoke and the damage was done #@$%! Warped the hell out of my slotted rotor $$$ and untold damage to the wheel bearing. Napa calipers are lifetime warranty but thats chump change compared to the damages incurred, not to mention being stranded on the side of the road. EGR touches base on the special fit pistons to prevent overheating and sticking and after this last go around Im real tempted to try them out. What really fries me is that I do not run my brakes hard. Im a conservative driver behind the wheel, I dont drive it hard and Im not heavy on the brake pedal and Im still having these problems

 

[HHhuntitall]

I was actually looking at a set of calipers from egr just the other day. Ive got a set from Napa and theyve stuck twice on me in the past year. The first time was no big deal I had only run right up the road a few miles, got out and noticed a warm brake smell. The 2nd time (last weekend) I had just turned onto the freeway and was up to speed a minute or 2 when the smell made its way through the heater vents. I immediately pulled over but too little too late my truck disappeared in a cloud of smoke and the damage was done #@$%! Warped the hell out of my slotted rotor $$$ and untold damage to the wheel bearing. Napa calipers are lifetime warranty but thats chump change compared to the damages incurred, not to mention being stranded on the side of the road. EGR touches base on the special fit pistons to prevent overheating and sticking and after this last go around Im real tempted to try them out. What really fries me is that I do not run my brakes hard. Im a conservative driver behind the wheel, I dont drive it hard and Im not heavy on the brake pedal and Im still having these problems

Dang corporate induced Chinese made produts. I hit Orielly's up several times for labor claims after they've given me defective parts. Last time, they gave me the wrong U-joints, even after I specifically asked them if they were the right ones for the AAM driveshafts... ... I pried 4hours labor costs out of them, but it took a month to even get a response from them... . I'd hit NAPA up for it, too, especially if it smoked my performance rotors!! You might not get any labor, but the money for the rotor would at least be something!!



I've heard good things about EGR, but never used them. I'm tempted to on my next buildup; haven't had the time to build anything in a while... .



I'm presuming you've checked, but have you looked at or replaced your front rubber brake lines? They're prone to fail, and cause the caliper to stick by not allowing fluid to return.....

 

[JR]

Dang corporate induced Chinese made produts. I hit Orielly's up several times for labor claims after they've given me defective parts. Last time, they gave me the wrong U-joints, even after I specifically asked them if they were the right ones for the AAM driveshafts... ... I pried 4hours labor costs out of them, but it took a month to even get a response from them... . I'd hit NAPA up for it, too, especially if it smoked my performance rotors!! You might not get any labor, but the money for the rotor would at least be something!!



I've heard good things about EGR, but never used them. I'm tempted to on my next buildup; haven't had the time to build anything in a while... .



I'm presuming you've checked, but have you looked at or replaced your front rubber brake lines? They're prone to fail, and cause the caliper to stick by not allowing fluid to return.....

It seems harder and harder to get anything decent from the auto parts store. It used to be if you stuck with the bigger names you were getting a quality part, its not the case anymore. Ive had my fair share of issues with u joints as well with the dodge and the wheeler. I finally went back to spicers for the dodge and havent had any problems YET in the last 30k, we shall see . As for the brake hoses, I replaced them over the summer, of course that doesnt mean theyre good either... .

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yep. For my own trucks, I spend the money and go to Inland or Truck Pro, or maybe Blumenthal's if I can plan ahead far enough... . I use the Spicer stuff, too, with not problems, EVER from a faulty part, that I can remember. I've exploded some U-joints, but that was when they were used well beyond what they were designed for... . Cummins OEM parts, too, unless it's a built motor and I know it's a quality part..... the guys I use now are DPPI, and they're pretty honest if you ask them what quality the parts are... . Meh, it just cost to have any kind of truck. A new one costs up front, and while you own it; a used one just costs a fraction every few, so pick your poison.....

 

[JR]

I've exploded some U-joints, but that was when they were used well beyond what they were designed for... .

You mean like hoggin some ruts out with some 38" swampers on factory yota axles, or some 56" rice n canes on a set of military top loaders... snnaaap :-laf:-laf

 

[JR]

Sorry for wrecking your thread, OP (in case your still tuning in)

I think the lines coming out of the abs are metric thread, maybe M10 x 1. 5?? Im not 100% sure exactly which line your talking but in my limited experience messing with the abs stuff under the hood I remember them being metric. Maybe Mr. HH could chime in, hes more smarter than me

 

[HHhuntitall]

Sorry for wrecking your thread, OP (in case your still tuning in)

I think the lines coming out of the abs are metric thread, maybe M10 x 1. 5?? Im not 100% sure exactly which line your talking but in my limited experience messing with the abs stuff under the hood I remember them being metric. Maybe Mr. HH could chime in, hes more smarter than me

Oh, Yeah..... (I wouldn't say smarter, for sure; just maybe more experienced... . or destructive... ) I think they're standard thread, being an earlier Dana, so the smaller threads are 3/8x24, and the larger thread depends on your truck, but it should be 3/8x24. It could be 7/16x24 or you may have a . 380 banjo bolt fitting if you have the load level sensor valve..... I think when they went to dic brakes they went to the M10x1. 0 threads up on the frame with 3/8x20 on the axle, but that's a later model..... Sorry, I can't be more helpful, there... . There are four or five variations out there, but the two main types are the 3/8x24 on both ends, and the banjo fitting if you have the level sensor... .