2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Pad Recommendations

[MBowser]

Need help, its time to replace the brake pads front and rear. Want to upgrade rotors and pads but having a problem finding threads on where to go to purchase and what to purchase.



Have a 02 2500 long bed, need to stop upto 12K during the winter...



Thanks

Mike

 

[JCyrbok]

Need help, its time to replace the brake pads front and rear. Want to upgrade rotors and pads but having a problem finding threads on where to go to purchase and what to purchase.



Have a 02 2500 long bed, need to stop upto 12K during the winter...



Thanks

Mike

I went with the Hawk pads that Geno's sell and some slotted rotors (got them on line but cant remember the company) and have had very good results. I however do not tow often or heavy so hopefully someone else will chime in with info for you.



There should be several threads here on brakes etc if ou do a search.



Hope this helps

J-

 

[Dave M]

You can get the Power Stop/Slo rotors and hawk pads at Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts | 800-230-3030. I went with NAPA drilled/slotted rotors because they had fewer holes in them but they were $135 apiece. Go here to see a pic of them: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-1994-1998/198313-1997-hub-rotor-upgrade.html



Bad front Hub Bearing?? - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums



Dave

 

[Grizzly]

Not a thing wrong with original equipped Mopar brakes. Can't beat the longevity and reliability.

 

[rkressg]

I just run the NAPA AE Break pads and rotors. I have never really had any issues with them stopping the truck and trailer at 20k+

 

[snuff]

what is wrong with oem? you racinn!!????lol



save your money for fuel... .

 

[BarryG]

I was very pleased with the oem pads and rotors. Still have the oem rotors at 226k. The pads though when I went to replace them with oem I was told by the dealer that the ones they sell at the dealer arent the same ones that come on the truck originally. Decided against spending the coin they want for them for an unknown. So I went with the Hawks from Genos and have been happy with them.

 

[Tony D]

Kbc. . the Green Stuff!!!!!!

 

[JPulliam]

Wagner ThermoQuiet pads are supposed to be good

 

[HEMI®Dart]

EBC Greenstuff 7000 Supreme 4X4 SUV Supreme

Put these on last week. Little more dusty than than the pads a member used to sell here before he retired. Little less "meat" on then than OEM. Watch your pedal before the "bed in". Very spongy. Once the seat, they bite nice. Perhaps 25% less pedal pressure needed than OEM pads. About $92 a set.



EBC Brakes - Home of the worlds largest range of brake products - Brake Pads | Brake Rotors | Cross Drilled Rotors | Slotted Rotors | Motorcycle Brakes



Notice the new slider pins, rubber bushings( ARP Moly lubed), wire-wheeled and ARP Moly lubed slider points. I like to do things right.

 

[robbiesworld]

I ran posi-quiet pads and hated them, I switched to the new Monroe pads and they lasted me about 6 months. Went ahead and put Monroes on my truck again. Still kinda monitoring this thread to see if there is a better pad. I have a dually and the rotors are a nightmare to change so finding a quality rotor would be very nice.

 

[CyberRanger]

Living in & driving the mountains of Colorado can be hard on brakes. Towing compounds the problem. We have a 2200' climb getting home from Fort Collins. The last major climb is a 500' climb over about 2 miles. One particular grade is very steep, on a dirt road & has a 30 mph corner at the bottom which really eats up brakes. I went thru my first set of OEM pads in 35K miles. The second set was semi-mets which lasted less than 40K when the left front caliper decided to stick & ate up the left pads & warped the rotor badly.



At that point I decided to quit screwin' around w/ stock stuff. A couple of panic stops on the highway & some fading brakes on longs hills convinced me to go aftermarket. After quite a bit of research I went w/ Egr Perfomance Inc carbon/kevlar pads, blueprinted rotors & gas slotted rotors on the front. What a huge difference! No more fading on the long, steep hills. No more wondering if I'm gonna run over the econobox which pulled in front of me & then decided to stop suddenly. After 70K miles on the front brakes, the wear is minimal & the performance is fantastic.



This last winter one of the stock rear calipers decided to begin sticking. I knew then I'd go w/ EGR's stuff on the rear as well. We had a ~1500 mile trip planned for June towing our travel trailer over 15 passes & divides in Colorado & Wyoming & I knew I didn't want to do that w/ marginal or stock rear brakes. So the first of June I did the rears w/ the EGRs as well. We had a great trip. I'd also installed a Banks Brake for the long drops off the passes, but when someone pulls in front of you b/c your're pulling a TT, the EGR brakes took all the panic out.



Highly, highly recommended.



FWIW, our trip took us over Monarch Pass both directions & over Red Mountain/Molas/Coalbank. Those familiar w/ those roads know that w/ poor brakes those passes can be more than butt-puckering, to the point of being dangerous. The southbound lane of Red Mountain has places where the white outside line is bordered only by a +500' drop--there is no shoulder. In a couple places we went by the white line had disappeared as well over the precipice.



Let's just say my wife didn't want to do that road again very soon.

 

[Regcabguy]

Back to stock.

Not a thing wrong with original equipped Mopar brakes. Can't beat the longevity and reliability.

I agree w/Grizzly. On my '99 I replaced my stockers w/NAPA slotted/drilled rotors and Hawk pads and proceeded to drive right through intersections. No amount of bedding in or pedal effort would duplicate what I had before. I returned to stock pads but did put on NAPA solid premium rotors.