brake pads

[MHindman]

I need to change the pads on my 99. I only need the fronts, i was just wondering how tough this was. Let me know, Oh Yeah, if anyone has any info about one set of pads being better than any other ones please let me know about theat too... . thanks all.
Mike

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(Silver Bullet)1999 Ext Cab 4X4 5SPD, All options. Power Max 3(adjustable), K&N Filter, no muffler, Pyro,Fender Flares, Toolbox, bedrail covers, 450 watt Kenwood Sub, 33 12. 50 16. 5's, 3. 54's... Soon to have: 4inch, DDIII's, Southbend clutch.

 

[sam peterson]

Mike---I sent you an e-mail. Let me know if I can help----Sam

 

[csutton7]

MHindman--it's not hard at all--& I highly recommend Sam Peterson's pads--you'll be very happy with them---chris

 

[ralphr]

couldn't tell if you have a 2500 or the 3500 I assume they are pretty much the same though. just changed mine, (see signiture), got the pads from auto zone, ("life time guarentee"). took about 1/2 half hour each side, cleaned the area with brake cleaner carefully removed calipars and old pads, replaced with new pads and put everything back. Wish I could say it was better than new, but as good as new! pedal pressure down clean straight stops! not to hard at all. suggest you also look at changing fluid as well, several posts around on doing that, also pretty easy, better if you have a helper though! good luck

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

[boonsur]

If you get the pads from Auto Zone (Performance Friction), make sure to get the "Heavy Duty" ones. They will probably ask.

Only tools needed (for a '99) are a 3/8" Allen socket and a clamp to compress the piston in the caliper. There are many posts saying not to push fluid back into the lines (when you compress the piston), as it may cause debris to foul the anti-lock sensors. My '99 does not have front anti-lock so I didn't worry too much about it. It was a gamble, but it worked out O. K.

Be sure to polish the caliper pins and use a lot of anti-sieze when re-inserting. Sticky calipers are the biggest cause of the infamous "brake-pull".

Mine had 28K miles on it, and the rotors were fine. I wouldn't be too scared into having them turned, unless they were really bad (pulsing) before the brake job. You can only turn so much off, before you need new calipers. Also, having them thick leaves them less prone to warping in the first place.

 

[BLACKRAM]

MHindman, did you replace or turn the rotors? At 40,000 mine are about due, but they pulse slightly just before a complete stop.

What about those Carobmet pads someone was talking about?

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1999 2500 4x4, auto, 3. 54 LSD, HD241, Quad cab SLT, Blk Sport Pkg, 16x8 Eagles, 285 Bridgestone AT, Bilsteins, 100% Amsoil, 80/100w lights, Valentine One, DTT TC/vb, Mag-Hytek trans pan, DD2's, DD TTPM, Isspro gauges.
1992 SC400
1978 Mooney 201 IFR

 

[Ram_Kowboy]

boonsur is right! Best procedure for collapsing calipers is to open the bleeder screw, then collapse caliper with C clamp or other suitable device. If you retighten bleeder screw before you release the C clamp, Then you shouldn't have to bleed any brakes. I have personally ruined Master Cylinders and Brake Proportioning Valves by forcing fluid back up through them. Seems more common with newer vehicles that have aluminum hydralic componants ( Like our Dodge's ).
It is also my opinion, you do not need to resurface rotors for normal brake pad replacement. Unless you have symtoms of warped rotors or have damaged the rotors.
You should have no problems,
RK

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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels. Power Edge EZ control module,Tuff Country 2" Leveling System, Draw-Tite Front Mount Receiver.

[This message has been edited by Ram_Kowboy (edited 04-04-2001). ]

 

[csutton7]

talk to Sam Peterson for the Carbomet pads--they're very good and I believe they are the best you can get for the 2500 model--chris

 

[sam peterson]

Haven't check my e-mail yet but all of these posts have some good points except one. The caliper slider bushings should be replaced when replacing the pads and should be lubed with paste silicone---NO ANTISIEZE--we have tested it and it will swell up the rubber. It is ok for metal to metal contact. When I supply the pads I include the new slider bushings and the lube(no extra charge)I just want the job done right. ----Sam

 

[MHindman]

whats your price sam?

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(Silver Bullet)1999 Ext Cab 4X4 5SPD, All options. Power Max 3(adjustable), K&N Filter, no muffler, Pyro,Fender Flares, Toolbox, bedrail covers, 450 watt Kenwood Sub, 33 12. 50 16. 5's, 3. 54's... Soon to have: 4inch, DDIII's, Southbend clutch.

 

[Skydiver]

When I replaced my pads with the lifetime performance friction I pushed the fluid backwards and the ABS light came on. Its a very easy job. Be sure you don't get any oil on your rotors.
Tim

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1996 3500 Feline deceased. Ready to upgrade. 87K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air,Star wheel spun,silencer ring hanging on a nail.
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.
1981 mercedes 300D Non-turbo 174K miles
1987 blue phord 2810 tractor 336 hours.

 

[John]

Sam, please email me information on the Carbomet pads.

TIA