Brake Pedal travel

[Happy Camper]

Is it normal for the brake pedal to go to within 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the floor boards when pressing real hard? The reason I ask is I am in the process of hooking up a brake controller that says the critical distance for the pedal movement has to be withing an adjustment of 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch. (Cable to the controller will break if in excess) The shortest distance I can get is twice that.
I have a 2001. 5 3500 4wheel disk brakes. The brake fluid level is where it indicates FULL.
Pedal does not feel mushy, pumping does not change the pedal position.

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Kimzy Bertalotto
2001. 5,3500 QC 4x4, HO/6spd,limited slip,BD,brake,60 gal Aero tank.

[This message has been edited by Happy Camper (edited 04-08-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

Kimzy, how about if you attach the cable closer to the pivot point on the pedal linkage? It seems you could even get it down to less than the 1" requirement that way even if your pedal went all the way to the floor. It may be way up under the dash and harder to do, but I don't see that you have much choice.

 

[Happy Camper]

Illflem! Thanks for the reply.

I suspect that is what I will have to do even tho it will take some doing to get back up in there. I will disconnect the Negative battery cables first to eliminate some tatoos on my arm or hand. This will cause the cable to be in quite a loop but should be not problem.
I looks like some electrical removal to get to the pedal as it will have to go above the push rod to get the measurement needed.

[This message has been edited by Happy Camper (edited 04-08-2001). ]

 

[Rambling]

Kimzy,

As mentioned, just move the bracket further up on the brake pedal arm. There really isn't any juice near the pivot point. I believe you're only using a screw driver and a hex wrench to do that part of the installation.

Laying a tape measure on the front edge of my brake pedal, the mounting bracket for my controller is 7. 75 up the arm from the top of the pad. Yep, it's a ways up there and awkward to get to for big guys like me. But that's what keeps it out of the way. By the way, it will likely stretch to at least 1. 25 inches. The 1 1/8 is to give a margin for error.

Just guessing that your controller is similar to mine. #ad
Looking forward to some email from you after you've used your new controller.

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<font color=#990000>~<font color=#990000> '99 2500 SLT <font color=#990000> ~ QC ~ 4X4 ~ LB ~ Auto ~ 4:10 LSD ~
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> BD E-brake<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> BD Autolock<font color=#00000> *<font color=#990000> Gear Vendor OD<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Bullhide spray-in Line <font color=#000000> *
<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> GPS-Garmin III+ w/Laptop Software <font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Jordan Ultima 2020 T-brake <font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> 2k Komfort 24' 5'er - 9. 7 GVWR <font color=#000000> *
<font size=-2>... Keep on Rammin'! You'll love the way it feels!! #ad
... <font size=-1>



[This message has been edited by Rattlin (edited 04-08-2001). ]

 

[Happy Camper]

Thank Rattlin!

I did not review the service manual to see what is in the way but by removing two mounting screws it will remove it so I can get up in close to the pivot point. Wires attached so will play it safe. It is nice to know there is some leeway in the amount of adjustment (cable stretch). I am small but when you get a cramp it hurts us little guys too!! #ad
: Am looking forward to making a maiden run on this type of controller.

 

[sam peterson]

Guess I'm dumb--but what kind of controller is that?------Sam

 

[illflem]

Sam, it is a type of controller that has been around awhile that doesn't operate off the brake light or a pendulum. There is a cable to the brake pedal that operates the controller, the braking is progressive, the harder you push on the pedal the more trailer braking. I never heard any reports on these, have just read about them, but it seems like a good idea.

 

[klenger]

I installed a Jordan brake controller also, and have gone through the same process. The installation instructions state that your should press the brake pedal all the way (as in an emergency stop) to determine full travel. It appears that with the Dodge, this travel can be quite a bit if you put enough pressure on the pedal. I do not think that you would ever use that much force in real life as you would go through the windshield. The process that I came up with is to adjust the cable position so that the current with (reasonable) full brakes matches the current reading when the brake controller button is pressed all the way in. If you set up the cable with too little travel, the trailer brakes will not be doing very much of the braking action under normal circumstances. The control module (the gizmo on the brake pedel) has a sping loaded safety mechanism to prevent the cable from pulling the guts out of the display module should the travel be excessive (as in a hyrdaulic failure). Set up the controller as best you can and then tow with it and you'll be better able to judge what adjustment is necessay.

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Ken Lenger
2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 54 (no LSD), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate, Westin CPS Step Bars, Jordan Utlima Brake Controller, Weather_Guard 664 tool box/
Replaces 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 which is for sale.
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.

 

[Happy Camper]

Klenger! Sounds like good advice. I tend to take things too virtual. Instructions and the product it goes on has variables. The only add on I ever completed where the instructions were 100 percent was to convert a full time 4x4 to part time. At one point in the instructions it said "14 roller bearings will fall out here and this is where they came from". Some one did the actual installation and wrote the instructions.
I tried to put the bracket up close to the pivot point but when the brake pedal is moved the bracket did not have clearance to travel so I mounted it up next to the brake light swithch, which is right at the push rod.

[This message has been edited by Happy Camper (edited 04-09-2001). ]