Brake rotor help needed...

[mconstable]

Hey guys, I have to replace the rear driver's rotor on my truck... can anyone give me advice and/or instructions?

Thanks!

 

[100 Proof]

Here ya go.



ROTORS



REMOVAL - REAR

(1) Raise and support the vehicle

(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

(3) Remove the disc brake caliper.

(4) Remove the caliper adapter bolts.

(5) Remove the retaining clips and rotor assembly.



100 Proof

 

[ASchwartz]

I use some wire that I snip off of a roll of tie wire to support the caliper so that I don't break the break lines.

 

[mconstable]

Alright fellas, thanks for the info, but I heard you have to remove the freaking axle or something



I have the ability, just not the knowledge.

 

[ASchwartz]

Alright fellas, thanks for the info, but I heard you have to remove the freaking axle or something



I have the ability, just not the knowledge.

Not that I recall, but you may have some corrosion to break loose first.

 

[JPerrings]

You do on a dually.



I just finished mine and while not a difficult job, it is a job.



As I recall.



Prior to work;



Purchase new axle gasket(s), Axle Grease seal(s) and/or Mopar Lock N’ Seal or Loctite 242.



Raise and support vehicle.

Remove wheel/tire.

Remove and support brake caliber assembly. (I used thick wire ties. )

Either drain the differential or place a drain pan under the axle.

Remove eight axle bolts.

Remove axle.

Remove retainer spring.

Remove locking key.

Remove Hub/Rotor assembly (Be prepared to catch the outer bearing(s). )

Separate the rotor from hub. (eight bolts)

Remove the remaining axle seal from axle tube. (The inner part of the seal may stay on the axle tube. This part must also be removed. )

Remove the remaining axle seal from hub.

I inspected the bearings/races and decided to reuse/repack.



Installation:



Pack bearings with the appropriate wheel bearing grease.

Install rear bearing and install new axle grease seal.

Slide hub on the axle tube and install front bearing into the hub.

Install hub bearing nut with hub nut socket (I found one at Autozone) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs. ) while rotating the hub (Do Not over tighten)

Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key. End play should be 0. 025-0. 25 mm (0. 01-0. 001 in. ).

Install retainer ring with ring end in the key slot.

Install new axle shaft gasket

Install axle shaft flange bolts (with Loctite) and tighten to 129 N·m ( 95 ft. lbs. ).

Service brake pads/calibers as necessary.



I think that is about the job.



Enjoy,



Jim P.

 

[FullSack]

some might disagree with me, but I would replace both rear rotors. I always replaced them in pairs.

 

[100 Proof]

Alright fellas, thanks for the info, but I heard you have to remove the freaking axle or something



I have the ability, just not the knowledge.

Sorry, I missed you were a DRW. The directions I gave were for a SRW.



100 Proof

 

[FJfonda]

JPerrings is right on the mark -- I would add the following:



- Replace any axle fluid that leaked out

- Inspect/service parking brake linings as needed.

- Remove the parking brake lever that connects the cable to the linings and free it up. The lever should pivot freely in the bracket. Lubricate generously

 

[mconstable]

Thanks for the help guys!

JPerrings, I really appreciate you taking the time to post the info.

Sounds like something I can handle (but REALLY don't want to lol)... but more than that, I don't want to shell out the cash to have it done!



Sounds like it will take the better part of a day for someone capable, but that's never done it?



Installing my Airdog took me 6 hrs.

 

[JPerrings]

No problem. Glad to help



It took me a better part of a day. Most of that time was spent running the 25 miles each way into town for parts. One draw back of a rural lifestyle.



FJfonda is correct about the parking brakes and fluids. I actually purchased all the various bearings/races, seals and brake pads figuring I would service/replace anything in need. I returned all the bearings and races. I lost about a quart of gear oil. It's a great time to change the differential fluid if due.



Had to laugh, my wife saw me backing the truck up to the garage and she muttered something about working on that @$#$ truck again as she left for work. I told her oh its just a "quick" couple hour brake job. I received the "look" when she got home from work and I was still completing my two hour brake job. Should learn to keep my mouth shut!



Jim



Regards

 

[FJfonda]

I also backed the truck in to do the job with my spouse muttering similar comments... .



The job took a few nights of spare time --- working slow due to the high heat and humidity in our area. Here are some of my hints ---

- Be prepared when you pull the axle to have 3-4 ft of horizontal clearance as you pull it from the axle tube.

- I snapped both brake hose to spring pad retaing bolts required drill/tap to fix --- hit them with WD 40 a few days before doing the job

- The rotor to hub bolts are TIGHT and on with locktite - plan on using a deep 15mm socket and an impact wrench to free them. I don't know how you would hold the hub to break them free without an impact wrench... possibly bolt back to a wheel?? I you don't have an impact -- rent an electric one.

- Plan on fluid coming from the axle tube when you pull the axle, and again when you pull the hub.

- Stay away from the china rotors and pads ----- you get what you pay for. I used OEM stuff.

- As stated before--- make sure the parking brake stuff is OK before putting back together otherwise you will have to rip apart again. Ask me how I know this!! - follow the factory adjustment procedure.

- THis is a great job for the blue nitrile gloves -- gear oil on hands stinks for days. When packing bearings, use double gloves to easily clean up.



Have at it!!! rip---tear--and swear!!

 

[Cattletrkr]

Stupid question: Why pack the bearings? Don't they run in oil? Mine came out with nothing showing but oil. Nothing remotely similar to grease.

I'm currently searching for an answer to how much play there should be between the seal and the inner bearing. I can't get the new seal any closer to the bearing than 0. 5-0. 75" away. I never looked for a grove that would stop the seal and I don't want to trash a $30 seal to find out it's in the right place. Service manual assumes I already know the answer to this. I've replaced many seals on trailers, but this one looks different and I'm really not sure.

 

[gathomas]

Cattletrkr - I believe you are correct, my 2004. 5 3500 DRW has what are called "Full Floating Axles" which if I'm correct, means that the wheel bearings are lubricated by means of the Gear Oil.
Having to replace Gear Oil ? sounds reasonable to me.

 

[sag2]

I have always packed the bearings on full floating axles. Putting them in dry you risk a failure if it is driven fast before the oil gets a chance to work it's way down the tube. Probably not necessary if the lube level is correct, but for the extra couple of minutes time spent I know I will NEVER have a bearing failure from lack of lube.

 

[rbattelle]

I have always packed the bearings on full floating axles. Putting them in dry you risk a failure if it is driven fast before the oil gets a chance to work it's way down the tube. Probably not necessary if the lube level is correct, but for the extra couple of minutes time spent I know I will NEVER have a bearing failure from lack of lube.

Now that is very interesting. It would never occur to me to do this on an oil lubricated system, but your logic is undeniable.



The oil will clean the binder out of the bearing and hold it in suspension until the next time the fluid is changed.



Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

I have always packed the bearings on full floating axles. Putting them in dry you risk a failure if it is driven fast before the oil gets a chance to work it's way down the tube. Probably not necessary if the lube level is correct, but for the extra couple of minutes time spent I know I will NEVER have a bearing failure from lack of lube.

I called my brother after posting the question last night and he gave pretty much the same answer. It's pretty much necessary in a commercial repair shop where the vehicle will be driven almost immediately. I didn't grease the inner bearing 'cause I didn't want to risk wrecking the seal since I already had it on that far. I squirted a little oil in there up to the bearing and then smeared a little grease on the outer bearing. Then when the wheels were back on I jacked up the opposite side of the truck overnight. Truck still hasn't moved. I think I'm alright. I've done this on trailer axles too many times to count, but never on a truck. On my trailers, the oil is on the bearing as soon as I pour it in. Never thought about packing them. I got nervous last night when I read the service manual and a few threads that all said "pack the bearings".

Thanks for the replies.